Amigurumi Doll Miku Hatsune Free Crochet Pattern

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Miku Hatsune (Miku Hatsune)

When using the recommended materials, the pupa will turn out to be 29 cm tall.

Difficulty Level: High

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Materials:

All yarn should be the same thickness. It is best to take yarn from one manufacturer and one

stamps. For example, these materials were used for my Miku:

• flesh-colored YarnArt Jeans yarn (55% cotton / 45% polyacryl, 50g / 160m) flesh-colored (21),

knit in 2 thin strings, fingers knit in 1 thread

• VITA Brilliant yarn (45% wool laster / 55% acrylic, 100g / 380 m) dark gray (4980) and light gray (4963) – disconnect one thread and knit in three thin threads

• turquoise yarn: VITA Crystal (100% acrylic, 50g / 275m) (5665) – for hair and trim

clothes

• white yarn: Color City Amazon (45% bamboo / 55% cotton; 50g / 155m) (101) disconnect

one thread, knit in 5 thin threads – panties

• hook 1.25 (main); 0.75 and 0.6 (for knitting fingers)

• toe knitting needles 1.75 – 5 pcs.

• holofiber

• thick wire d = 2.5 mm (braided) 120 cm – for the frame of the legs and body

• wire d = 1,5 mm 50 cm – for the frame of the hands

• thin wire for beadwork d = 0.4 mm, 80 cm – for the frame of the palms

• 10 cm light pink yarn for embroidery mouth

• a small piece of dense fabric (calico), acrylic paints in white, black, blue, deep blue (or green) colors – for the eyes

• art artificial brushes No. 0 and 0/3 (the thinnest)

• glossy acrylic varnish

• glue Crystal Moment

• thick plastic paper folder – for insoles

• tissue-based adhesive plaster

• 

https://youtu.be/rkHltSvLEX8

Legend (hook):

ch – air loop

sl-st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

dec – inconspicuous decrease (grab the two front walls of the base loop at the same time and knit 1sc)

dec * – normal decrease (2sc together)

inc – increase (2 sc from one loop of the base)

hdc – half crochet

inc hdc – increase with half crochets (knit 2 hdc from one loop of the base)

3vm – 3 sc together (knit 3 sc with a common vertex)

İNC – turn the work, thread for knitting

İNC * – turn the work, the thread before knitting

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Legend (knitting needles):

knit – front loop

purl – purl loop

front surface – on the front side knit with facial loops, on the wrong side – purl

2vm – 2 together front for the rear wall. Synonym: 2 loops knit together front with an inclination to the left

2vm * – 2 together front for the front wall. Synonym: 2 stitches knit together front with tilt

right

2vm purl – knit 2 loops together with the wrong loop

+ 1 person – tie an additional facial loop from the loop of the previous row

Adding loops right and left raising – video (I was more comfortable adding loops left

raising)

1 stitch to the right knitting needle without knitting, the working thread behind the removed loop

Knit the edge loops in the front row, and in

wrong side – wrong side.

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Head

The head spirals from top to bottom, from the top of the head to the chin. The marker line is centered.

occiput.

1 p: ​​6sc into magic ring = 6

2 p: (inc) × 6 = 12

3 p: (1sc, inc) × 6 = 18

4 p: (1sc, inc, 1sc) × 6 = 24

5 p: (3sc, inc) × 6 = 30

6 p: (1sc, inc, 3sc) × 6 = 36

7 p: (5sc, inc) × 6 = 42

8 p: (2sc, inc, 4sc) × 6 = 48

9 p: 48 sc

10 p: (7sc, inc) × 6 = 54

11-17 p: 54sc (7 rows) +1 n offset

18 p: 12sc, put an additional marker (place

sewing eyelets), 30sc, put a marker (second

eye), 12sc = 54

19 p: (dec, 7sc) × 6 = 48

20 r: 48sc

21 p: 17sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 17sc = 44

22 p: 12sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 14sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 10sc, 2ch = 48 (it turned out that the last 2 were not tied

loops, and above them 2 ch)

23 p: 2ch (total 4ch: 2ch from the 22nd row + 2ch of this row), skip 4 base loops, 10sc,

inc, 3sc, inc, 14sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 12sc = 52

24 p: 52sc – between the 23rd and 24th rows mark the 27th loop – from this mark we will count

eye hook loops +1 n offset

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Sew a thread of contrasting color to outline the hairline: in front – between the 6th and 7th rows, along

on the sides – 1 row above the ears, behind – 1 row above the neck hole.

Make hair.

Cut turquoise strings into strands 60 cm long,

fold them in half and fix along the perimeter of hair growth. To me

it took about 130 threads. Fasten with ordinary knitting

crochet according to the pattern. Attach hair for one first

tail, then for another.

Attach the strings along the parting line to the same holes as

the first row, then when dividing the lock into two tails on

there will be no bald spot in the middle of the parting.

If you divide the hair along the center line to the left and to the right, you get an even parting, and if

distribute the row to the left, the row to the right, you get a zigzag parting.

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Tie ponytails with small rubber bands for hair. This is a temporary option, we will finally

to fix when the head is completely ready.

Continue to knit your head.

25 p: 12sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 6sc, inc (nose formation), 6sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 13sc = 49

26 p: 1sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 5sc, (inc) × 2 (nose), 5sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 2sc = 45

27 p: 1sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 1sc = 39

28 p: 1sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 4sc, 3vm (nose tip), 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 1sc = 31

29 p: 1sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec = 24

30 r: 24sc

31 p: (1sc, dec) × 3, 2sc, (inc) × 2 (chin formation), 2sc, (dec, 1sc) × 3 = 20

32 p: 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 1sc, (inc) × 2 (chin), 1sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc = 18

Fill your head with filler. Filling is not too tight. Form from filler

a small ball and place it in the area of ​​the nose so that it stands out better on the face.

33 p: (dec) × 3, 6sc, (dec) × 3 = 12p

With the help of three hooks, tighten all these 12 loops in one step. Fasten and hide the thread inside out.

Ears

Knit in rows.

Left ear

1 row: 7 loops in an amigurumi ring, 3ch (for lifting), İNC

2 row: starting from the 1st loop: 1dc, 2hdc, 3sc, inc, 1ch, ss into magic ring

Leave the thread for sewing.

Right ear

1 row: 7 loops in an amigurumi ring, İNC

2 row: from the 1st loop knit: inc, 3sc, 2hdc, 1dc, 1ch

Next, knit a ss in a broach of a crochet column and fasten the thread. Leave the thread for sewing.

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Embroider bangs

In a knit needle with a blunt tip

insert a long thread of turquoise color and

start embroidering bangs, stitching stitches

tight to each other. At the same time, we try to

the strings did not twist during operation,

and lay parallel to each other.

We make the lower border uneven. Bang part

we put on already completed stitches.

Sew ears on the markers.

Determine the exact location for each ponytail

and fasten them with small silicone

rubber bands.

Hands

Paired details are best knitted in parallel (from two balls), so that they turn out the same

size. We begin to knit hands with fingers, the direction of knitting from the bottom up to the shoulder.

We knit with a disconnected thread (two times thinner than the main fabric), hook 0.6. Starting from the 3rd row

You can insert a sewing needle into your finger and then knit as around the frame (method from Elena_rak).

Index finger (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-8 p: 5sc (7 rows)

9 p: 2sc (partial row)

Middle finger (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-9 p: 5sc (8 rows)

Ring finger (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-8 p: 5sc (7 rows)

9 p: 3sc (partial row)

Little finger (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-7 p: 5sc (6 rows)

Thumb (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-8 p: 5sc (7 rows)

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Finger assembly

On the left hand, the marker goes from the index finger up the edge of the palm (in front), on the right hand – from

little finger up the back of the hand. Monitor marker position on these lines.

Left hand

We begin to collect with the index finger.

Change the hook to 0.75, attach another

a thread to the worker (we knit the main worker

thick yarn).

Right hand

We begin to collect with the little finger. Change hook

at 0.75, attach another thread to

working (we knit the main working thickness

yarn).

1 p: ​​1sc, dec * (one loop from the index finger,

second – average), 1sc average

finger, 1sc over the ring, dec * (one

loop with ring finger, second – with

little finger), dec (“invisible”), 1sc on the little finger,

dec * (one loop with the little finger, the second with

ring finger), 1sc over the ring finger

finger, dec * (one loop with the nameless

finger, the second – from the middle), 1sc by

middle finger, dec * (one loop with

middle finger, the second with the index finger), dec

(“invisible”) = 13

1 p: ​​1sc, dec * (one loop with the little finger, the second with

ring finger), 1sc over the ring finger

finger, 1sc on the middle finger, dec * (one

loop from the middle finger, the second with

index), dec (“invisible”), 1sc by

index finger, dec * (one loop with

index finger, the second – from the middle),

1sc on the middle finger, dec * (one loop with

middle finger, the second – with the ring finger),

1sc on the ring finger, dec * (one loop

from the nameless, the second – from the little finger), dec

(“invisible”) = 13

2-4 p: (change the hook by 1.25) 13 sc (3 rows) 2-4 p: (change the hook by 1.25) 13 sc (3 rows)

5 p: 2sc knit together with eyelets

thumb1

, 11sc = 13

5 p: 5sc, next 2sc knit with

thumb loops1

, 6sc = 13

6 p: 2sc over thumb loops, dec * (one

loop from the thumb, the second with

hands) 1

, 10sc = 13

6 p: 4sc, dec * (one loop from the palm, the second with

thumb), 2sc over the loops of the thumb

finger1

, 6sc = 13

1 To hook the loops on the thumb, grab the 0.75 hook again.

We knit them the first two loops of the 5th row and the first three loops of the 6th row.

We make the frame. Take two pieces of wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm2 by 25 cm, and two pieces of thin bead

wire d = 0.4 mm by 40 cm. Make a frame of the hands and insert it into the palms. Further knit around

wire.

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7 p: (dec, 1sc) × 4, 1sc = 9

8-10 r: 9sc (3 rows)

11 p: inc, 3sc, inc, 4sc = 11

12-13 p: 11sc (2 rows)

14 p: inc, 4sc, inc, 5sc = 13

15-17 p: 13 sc (3 rows)

We stuff in the process of knitting: we do not stuff the wrist; add a little filler in the forearm,

distributing it around the wire; we’re not stuffing the elbow so as not to disturb the shape of the hand; humeral

part is stuffed a little denser so that the hand holds its shape.

Left hand right hand

18 p: 6sc, inc, 6sc = 14

19-23 r: 14sc (5 rows)

24 p: 6sc, (inc) × 2 (elbow – located on the back, on

one line with the little finger), 4sc, dec (ulnar

fold) = 15

25 p: dec, 12sc, inc = 15

26 p: inc, 4sc, (dec) × 2, 6sc = 14

27-28 r: 14sc (2 rows)

29 p: inc, 13sc = 15

30-31 p: 15sc (2 rows)

32 p: inc, 14sc = 16

33-44 r: 16sc (12 rows)

45 p: 2sc, ss (incomplete row) – the thread is located with

the inner side of the arm (from the side of the body).

Cut the thread and secure it on the wrong side.

18 p: inc, 12sc = 14

19-23 r: 14sc (5 rows)

24 p: 13sc, inc (elbow – located on the back, on

one line with the little finger) = 15

25 p: inc, 4sc, (dec) × 2 (ulnar fold), 6sc = 14

26 p: 6sc, (inc) × 2, 4sc, dec = 15

27 p: dec, 13sc = 14

28 p: 14sc

29 p: 6sc, inc, 7sc = 15

30-31 p: 15sc (2 rows)

32 p: 7sc, inc, 7sc = 16

33-44 r: 16sc (12 rows)

45 p: 2sc, ss (incomplete row) – the thread is located with

the inner side of the arm (from the side of the body).

Cut the thread and secure it on the wrong side.

Sleeves

Knit from the bottom up. Dial 24 stitches (6 cm), close in a ring, and knit, evenly reducing the stitches.

1-5 p: 24 faces (5 rows)

6 p: (dec, 10 persons) × 2 = 22

7-11 r: 22 faces (5 rows)

12 p: (5 knit, dec, 4 persons) × 2 = 20

13-17 r: 20 faces (5 rows)

18 p: (dec, 8 persons) × 2 = 18

19-23 r: 18 faces (5 rows)

24 p: (4 knit, dec, 3 persons) × 2 = 16

25-29 p: 16 faces (5 rows)

30 p: (dec, 6 persons) × 2 = 14

31-39 p: 14 persons (9 rows)

40 p: knit a row while closing all the loops

Tie the top and bottom of the sleeve with one row sc of turquoise yarn. Complete it with a secret connector

column. Steam the finished sleeves with a steam jet (without touching the knitted fabric).

Put the gloves on Miku’s hands (put on top). Mittens can not be sewn to the hands, they are already

hold well.

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Legs

The marker line runs behind the leg (“seam on the stocking”). Watch the marker if it starts to go away

right, knit an extra column at the end of the row and move the marker one loop. The legs are the same as

hands, it is better to knit both at once.

Sole (2 children)

Knit in circular rows with a lifting loop and a closing connecting column. This ss can

knit either in the first column of this row (green arrow), or in the lifting loop (yellow arrow). we

we will close the row in the first column of the row.

Turquoise yarn knit a chain of 10 ch.

1 p: ​​starting from the second from the hook loop: 8sc, 4sc to the last

loop of the chain, 7sc, inc, ss in the first sc of this row (by

green arrow) = 21

2 p: 1ch for lifting; starting from the same loop on which it is connected

lift loop: 6sc, 2hdc, (inc hdc) × 4, 2hdc, 6sc, (inc) × 2,

ss in the first column of this row (in the green arrow) = 28

3 p: 1ch for lifting; starting from the same loop on which it is connected

lifting loop: 10sc, (inc, 1sc) × 3, 9sc, (inc, 1sc) × 2, ss in

the first sc of this row (in the green arrow) = 34

4 p: 1ch for lifting; starting from the same loop on which it is connected

lifting loop: 8sc, (1sc, inc, 1sc) × 4, 11sc, inc, 2sc = 39

Cut the working thread, leaving a thread about 1.5 m long (its length should be sufficient for tying

soles with one row of connecting posts). Insert this ponytail into a knitted needle and

execute a countersunk column in the first loop of the row (order of execution is here). It turns out 40

loops.

Heel (2 children)

We knit in rotary rows. Knit a chain of 4ch with turquoise yarn.

1 p: ​​starting from the second loop from the hook: 2sc, 4sc into the last loop of the chain, on the back

chains 2sc, 1ch, İNC = 8

2 p: 3sc, (inc) × 2, 3sc, 1ch, İNC = 10

3 p: 4sc, (inc) × 2, 4sc = 12

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Boot (2 pcs.)

Knit with dark gray yarn in 3 thin threads. Link the chain from 40ch, lock it in the ss ring.

1-2 p: 40sc (2 rows)

3 p: 13sc, (dec) × 7, 1sc, İNC *

4 p: (knit with purl sc) (dec *) × 4, 1sc, İNC

5 p: dec *, 2sc, dec * (pull the first loop from the center of the last column, the second from the next

hinges of the 2nd row), 1sc İNC *

6 p: (knit with purl sc) dec *, 2sc, dec * (similar to the previous row), 1sc, İNC

7 p: dec *, 2sc, dec *, 9sc

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Attach the heel to the sole and place the upper part of the boot on top, precisely align all the details

relative to each other. Turquoise yarn to connect all these three parts in one row

connecting columns (in the photographs for clarity, the connection of parts is shown in white

yarn). Secure the thread with a secret connecting column and hide on the inside.

From the plastic paper folder, cut out the insoles slightly smaller than the soles.

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If the doll will be interior and I want her to stand in any position, then in the heel area on

insoles need to make holes. Then they can insert the frame from the stand.

Cut two pieces of wire of 60 cm d = 2.5, bend the frame in half. One end should be long

slightly larger than the length of the leg, approximately 22-25 cm, the second – slightly larger than the length of the body. Bend

fasten the resulting loop perpendicular to the frame and in the ankle region fasten with 1.5-2 turns

adhesive tape.

Attach a plastic insole to the wire with 1 turn of adhesive tape (a lot is not needed, only to

the insole was locked in the correct position). Insert this frame in the leg and continue to knit around

wire. Stuff in the process of knitting, evenly distributing the filler around the wire

frame.

Then again we knit in circular rows.

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8 p: 8sc, dec * (pull the first loop from the 9th column, the second from the first loop of the rotary row),

2sc, dec, 8sc = 20

9 p: 7sc, (dec *) × 3, 7sc = 17

10 p: dec, 5sc, (dec) × 2, 5sc, dec = 13 (the last decrease captures the last loop of the 10th row and the first

loop of the 11th row; as a result, the marker has shifted left by 1 loop)

11-16 p: 13sc (6 rows)

Left foot right foot

17 p: 1sc, inc, 11sc = 14

18-19 p: 14sc (2 rows)

20 p: 2sc, inc, 11sc = 15

21-22 p: 15sc (2 rows)

23 p: 3sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 2sc = 17

24-25 p: 17sc (2 rows)

26 p: 3sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 1sc = 19

27 p: 19sc

28 p: 1sc, inc, 17sc = 20

29 p: 20sc

30 p: 4sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 3sc = 22

31-32 r: 22sc (2 rows)

33 p: 3sc, inc, 15sc, inc, 2sc = 24

34-38 p: 24sc (5 rows)

39 p: 3sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 1sc = 22

40-41 p: 22sc (2 rows)

42 p: 3sc, dec, 15sc, dec = 20

43 p: 3sc, dec, 4sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 8sc = 21

44 p: 2sc, dec, 17sc = 20

45 r: 20sc

46 p: 3sc, inc, 4sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 3sc, inc,

3sc = 20

47-48 p: 20sc (2 rows)

49 p: 4sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 4sc = 22

50-53 r: 22sc (4 rows)

54 p: 4sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 4sc = 24

55-58 r: 24sc (4 rows)

59 p: 21sc (partial row)

17 p: 11sc, inc, 1sc = 14

18-19 p: 14sc (2 rows)

20 p: 11sc, inc, 2sc = 15

21-22 p: 15sc (2 rows)

23 p: 2sc, inc, 9sc, inc, 2sc = 17

24-25 p: 17sc (2 rows)

26 p: 1sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 3sc = 19

27 p: 19sc

28 p: 1sc, inc, 17sc = 20

29 p: 20sc

30 p: 3sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 3sc = 22

31-32 r: 22sc (2 rows)

33 p: 2sc, inc, 15sc, inc, 3sc = 24

34-38 p: 24sc (5 rows)

39 p: 1sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 3sc = 22

40-41 p: 22sc (2 rows)

42 p: dec, 15sc, dec, 3sc = 20

43 p: 8sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 4sc, dec, 3sc = 21

44 p: 17sc, dec, 2sc = 20

45 r: 20sc

46 p: 3sc, inc, 4sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 4sc, inc,

2sc = 20

47-48 p: 20sc (2 rows)

49 p: 4sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 4sc = 22

50-53 r: 22sc (4 rows)

54 p: 4sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 4sc = 24

55-59 p: 24sc (5 rows) +6 loops

displacements (the beginning of the row is shifted inward)

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Then both legs are knitted the same way. Change the thread to turquoise.

60 r: 24sc

Change thread to skin color.

61 p: (behind the back wall of the loop) 24sc

62-71 p: (for both walls) 24sc (10 rows)

Body

On the right leg, knit 2sc with flesh-colored thread, then switch to white yarn and knit 1sc –

the working thread is exactly between the legs. Tie 1ch (so that there is a small distance between the legs).

1 p: ​​24sc (on the left foot), 1sc on ch, 24sc (on the right foot), 1sc on ch = 50

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Now you need to transfer the marker to the stomach so that the halves of the priests are not one above the other, so that

increases / decreases were located strictly in one row and were at the same height. Knit 24 p offsets and

place the marker exactly in the center of the abdomen.

2 p: 15sc, (inc, 3sc) × 2, 1sc, dec, (3sc, inc) × 2, 16sc = 53

3 p: 16sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 3sc, dec, 3sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 17sc = 56

4 p: 27sc, dec, 27sc = 55

Bend the frame coming from the legs to each other, cut off the excess wire with wire cutters, and connect it

together with a band-aid.

5-10 p: 55sc (6 rows)

11 p: 16sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 16sc = 51

12 p: 12sc, change the thread to a flesh color, (continue to knit behind the back wall of the loop) 39sc = 51

13 p: (for the back wall of the loop) 12sc, (for both walls) 2sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 14sc = 47

14 p: 14sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 14sc = 43

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15 p: 43sc

16 p: 8sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 8sc = 38

17 p: 13 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 13 sc = 36

18 p: 5 sc, dec, 22 sc, dec, 5 sc = 34

19-24 p: 34 sc (6 rows)

25 p: 6sc, inc, 20sc, inc, 6sc = 36

26-27 p: 36sc

28 p: 12sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 12sc = 38

29 p (incomplete row): 19sc

Put the marker exactly in the middle of the back. This is necessary so that the chest does not work out on different

height.

When you fill the body, try not to put a lot of filler in the abdomen, so as not to

the bulging tummy turned out.

30 p: 8sc, inc, 4sc, (inc) × 3, 5sc, (inc) × 3, 4sc, inc, 9sc = 46

31 p: 14sc, (1hdc, inc hdc) × 3, 6sc, (inc hdc, 1hdc) × 3, 14sc = 52

32-34 p: 52sc (3 rows)

In the 33rd row, note the center of the chest with contrasting thread, in this

we’ll do a little tightening later.

35 p: 15sc, (dec, 1sc) × 3, 4sc, (1sc, dec) × 3, 15sc = 46

36 p: 16sc, (dec, 1sc) × 2, 4sc, (1sc, dec) × 2, 14sc = 42

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Attach the frame of the hands to the “spine”.

When you get to the site where you need to knit at the same time the body and arm loops together, get a working thread

under the wire frame, knit these three loops. Then pull the hook out of the loop and slip it

under the frame to the other side (turn). Next, knit according to the scheme to the next section of the arm connection

and body. Perform it similarly to the first.

Now you can knit the body further.

37 p: 8sc, 3sc (capturing simultaneously the loops of the body and left hand), 5sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 5sc, 3sc

(capturing simultaneously the loops of the body and the right hand), 7sc = 40

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Slightly pull the center of the chest to the “spine” with two stitches. Strongly do not zealous so as not to

it turned out a hole instead of a beautiful hollow.

38 p: 8sc (back), 13sc (left hand), 19sc (front), 13sc (right hand), 7sc (back) = 60

39 p: 8sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 19sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 7sc = 54

40 p: 7sc, dec, (3sc, dec) × 3, 7sc, dec, (3sc, dec) × 3, 6sc = 46

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Once again, slightly pull the center of the chest to the “spine”. The tie point is 2 rows higher than the previous one. This

fasten the weight, as well as the first one, under the arm frame.

Shoulders

The shoulders fit, as well as the feet, in swivel rows. It is necessary to ensure that the wrong bars

were pretty tight. Otherwise, you will get holes on the shoulders, and through them will shine through

filler.

41 p: 8sc, (dec) × 4, 1sc, İNC *

42 p: (purl) dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC

43 p: dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC *

44 p: (purl) dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC

45 p: dec *, 1sc, dec *, 12sc, (dec) × 4, 1sc, İNC *

46 p: (purl) dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC

47 p: dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC *

48 p: (purl) dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC

49 p: dec *, 1sc, dec *, 2sc +1 n offset

50 r: (continue to knit in a spiral) 3sc, 1sc to the center of the column knitted in the next loop of the row,

11sc, 1sc to the center of the column knitted in the next loop of the row, 6sc = 22

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Shoulder knitting pattern:

Fulfillment of the 50th row: the arrows show on which stitches the 3rd and 4th sc should be knitted; 16th and 17th

sc knit similarly

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51 p: 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc = 18

52 p: 18sc

53 p: 2sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc = 14

54-61 p: 14sc (8 rows)

Knit another 3 sc so that the working thread is on the left side of the neck (here when sewing the head does not

the “step” will be so noticeable), ss. Cut the thread, leaving a tail sufficient for sewing

heads.

Take your time sewing on your head. When trying on clothes, hair will interfere, so first we

we will dress Miku, and then we will fix the head.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Clothing (knitting needles)

Pleated skirt

We will need:

• yarn is dark gray

• turquoise yarn for decoration

• toe knitting needles 1.75 (5 pcs.)

Type 48 stitches on the knitting needles. Distribute them to 4

knitting needles 12 loops. Close the loop in the ring and then

knit in a circle.

1 p: ​​48 persons = 48

2 p: (4 faces, + 1 life) × 12 = 60

3 p: (2 faces, 1 faces to retake without knitting (thread for

loop), 1 face, 1 life) × 12 = 60

4 p: (4 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 60

5 p: (1 person, + 1 person, 1 knit, 1 person to retake without tying

(thread behind the loop), 1 person, 1 life) × 12 = 72

6 p: (5 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 72

7 p: (3 faces, 1 faces reshoot (thread behind the loop), 1 faces, + 1 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 84

8 p: (6 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 84

9 p: (1 person, + 1 person, 2 knit, 1 person reshoot (thread behind the loop), 2 person, 1 life) × 12 = 96

10 p: (7 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 96

11 p: (4 faces, 1 faces reshoot (thread behind the loop), 2 faces, + 1 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 108

12 p: (8 people, 1 life) × 12 = 108

13 p: (1 person, + 1 person, 3 person, 1 person retake (thread behind the loop), 3 person, 1 person) × 12 = 120

14 p: (9 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 120

15 p: (5 faces, 1 faces retake (thread behind the loop), 3 faces, + 1 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 132

16 p: (10 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 132

Knit the first loop on the knitting needle, and then re-knit it on the right knitting needle. The beginning of the row has shifted to 1

loop to the left. In the next row we knit loops and close. Close the loops one at a time, and upon reaching

wrong side, grab the wrong side and the next one behind the front wall and close both of them

at once.

17 p: 9 faces, 2vm * (the wrong side and the following one are knitted together) = 120

Cut the thread and hide the tail on the inside. Attach a turquoise thread and tie the bottom of the skirt

one side sc.

Very carefully, through wet gauze, steam all the folds (with one touch, do not press strongly).

Put the skirt on the body and sew with a thin sewing thread (or thin fishing line) along the hips, just above

the top edge of the shorts.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Belt strap

Link a chain of 56 ch. Starting from the second loop, knit 55 sc along this chain. Steaming the strap

a stream of steam (do not touch the iron) and sew on the skirt on the left to the belt.

Jacket

Light gray yarn, knitting needles 1.75, knit tightly.

Tie a chain of 54 ch with a contrasting thread (tied more than necessary, because it is difficult to make from extreme loops

dial loops). Take the main yarn in light gray, leave a loose tip about 70-

80 cm (then we will close the open hinges of the bottom with this thread) and use a hook to pull out light gray

yarn on the back of a chain 52 loop.

1 p: ​​52 purl = 52

2 p: 52 knit = 52

3 p: 15 life, (2vm purl, 5 life) × 3, 2vm purl, 14 life = 48

4-5 r: facial smoothness (2 rows)

6 p: 2vm *, 12persons, (2vm *, 4persons) × 3, 2vm *, 12persons, 2vm = 42

7-8 r: facial smoothness (2 rows)

9 r: 2vm wrong side, 5niz, İNC

10 r: double crochet, 6 knits, İNC

11 p: 3life, İNC

12 r: double crochet, 3 knits, İNC

13 p: 3 life, yarn and the next loop to knit together

wrong side of the back wall, 2 wear, yarn and

knit the next loop together

back wall, 4lv, (2vm purl, 3lv) × 3, 2vm purl, 13lv = 37

14 p: 2vm *, 5 persons, İNC

15 p: yarn, 6niz, İNC

16 r: 3 persons, İNC

17 p: yarn, 3niz, İNC

18 p: 3 knit, double crochet and the next loop together with the front for the front wall, 2 knit, double crochet and

knit the next loop together over the front wall, 29 faces = 36

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

19-21 r: facial smoothness (3 rows)

22 p: 9 persons, + 1p, 18 persons, + 1p, 9 persons = 38

23-25 ​​r: facial smoothness (3 rows)

26 p: 10 persons, + 1p, 18 persons, + 1p, 10 persons = 40

27-29 r: facial smoothness (3 rows)

30 p: 10 persons, + 1p, 20 persons, + 1p, 10 persons = 42

31 p: 42 life

Next, we form the armhole. Knit each part separately.

Right shelf:

1 p: ​​12 persons, İNC = 12

2 p: (and all even rows are purl loops) 12 purl

3 p: 10 persons, 2 VM = 11

5 p: 9 persons, 2 vm = 10

7 p: 8 persons, 2 vm = 9

9 p: 6 faces, 3 vm = 7

11 p: 5 persons, 2 vm = 6

13 p: 4 persons, 2 vm = 5

14 p: close all the loops.

Back:

1 p: ​​18 persons = 18

3 p: 2vm *, 14 persons, 2 vm = 16

5 p: 2vm *, 12 persons, 2 vm = 14

7 p: 2vm *, 10 persons, 2 vm = 12

9 p: 2vm *, 8 persons, 2 vm = 10

11 p: 2vm *, 6 persons, 2 vm = 8

13 p: knit this row, closing the loop

Left shelf:

1 p: ​​12persons = 12

3 p: 2 vm *, 10 persons = 11

5 p: 2 vm *, 9 persons = 10

7 p: 2 vm *, 8 persons = 9

9 p: 3 vm *, 6 persons = 7

11 p: 2 vm *, 5 persons = 6

13 p: 2 vm *, 4 persons = 5

14 p: close all loops

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Collar

Turn the jacket back to you and dial 22 loops on the closed loops of the neck,

picking up the front wall of the loop (the one closest to you):

6 loops on the left shelf, 10 loops on the back, 6 loops on the right shelf.

It turns out that on the shelves you need to add one additional loop, and on the back add 2

loops.

1 p: ​​22 life = 22

2 p: 22 persons = 22

3 p: 22 life = 22

4 p: knit this row at the same time closing all the loops.

Try not to tighten the edge, knit looser so that the collar edge is not pulled, it should

to lie freely on the shoulders.

Tie the collar with one next to sc turquoise yarn. At the corners to rotate, knit in one loop:

1sc, 1ch, 1sc.

Remove the thread of contrasting color along the bottom of the jacket, put open loops on the knitting needle, and knit one row

closing all loops at the same time. To tie the bottom and armholes of the jacket with one next sc turquoise yarn.

At the corners, also knit in one loop: 1sc, 1ch, 1sc. Fasten and hide all tails on the wrong side

strings.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Put the finished jacket on Mika, sew the shelves with each other. You can make a fastener, then a jacket

will be removable.

On the left shelf, yellow yarn to embroider two

badge stitches.

Tie

Link a chain of 29ch.

Starting from the 2nd loop from the hook: 9sc, 9hdc, 8dc, 1ch, 1hdc; in

last loop of the chain: 2sc, 1ch, 2sc; starting from

the next loop on the back of the chain: 1hdc, 1ch,

8dc, 9hdc, 9sc.

Steam the tie with a stream of steam (without touching the knitted

cloth) and sew under the collar.

On the side of the tie, embroider two stitches with dark gray yarn.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Bend your neck a little back. Measure about 3-4 cm

wire coming out of the neck, cut off the excess. Put on

head to this frame, find the correct head position and

sew it to your neck.

Eye sockets

Between the 23rd and 24th rows, place a marker exactly in the center of the face (exactly above the nose). Now left and

To the right of this central loop, count 2 loops, and retreat another two loops to the temples – this

marks for eye tightening.

Bring down ordinary sewing with a solid thread of flesh

colors in 2 additions. We form each eye separately.

Tie up the tie in the most inconspicuous place –

either at the base of the neck or under the hair (I hid

hair nodules). Never pull hard.

you need a little bit to get tiny

neat pits. If you look in profile, then

The nose should be slightly submerged.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Eyes

This is the most creative moment in creating your baby doll. The perception of the whole image in

whole.

Materials:

• acrylic paints in white, black and blue (green) colors

• tassels No. 0 and No. 0/3 (the thinnest)

• a piece of dense cotton fabric (I took calico)

• glossy acrylic varnish

• toothpicks – they will take a small amount of paint for mixing on the palette and for

applying varnish

For dolls in the style of anime, you do not need to make realistic eyes, they look on such faces a little

unnaturally, more sketchy eyes are needed. It is no coincidence that there is such a thing as anime eyes.

To measure the height of 4 rows of knitting is the size of the eye vertically. I got 9.5-10 mm. Width

eyes are calculated by multiplying the height by 0.8, it turns out 8 mm. Now on a piece of paper you need to note this

distance and draw two ovals. It’s better to take dark paper so that it’s easier to understand how it will look

eyes on the face.

Cut out these ovals with nail scissors, attach to your face and see if the eyes of such

size or not, if you want more or enough.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Now you can start drawing on the fabric. We draw in the same way as we painted on paper.

I drew two sizes at once, because I don’t know which ones will look better in the end.

Now we take acrylic paints and color these blanks. First, draw the squirrels with white paint,

then a blue (green) narrow strip of iris.

Now from below on the iris you need to make a lighter blue (green) highlight. For this on plastic

in the palette (or on the lid of mayonnaise) mix a little bit of blue (green) paint and a little white

mix with a toothpick and a thin brush apply glare.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Now paint over the pupil and eyelashes. Let it dry.

Under the eyelashes, the anime always has a shadow, this gives the eyes depth and volume, so now you need

apply these shadows. Mix a little white paint with a black droplet on the palette (literally on

the tip of a toothpick) and do exactly the same with blue (green) paint. Very thin brush

gently apply these paints under the eyelashes to the appropriate areas. And again let it dry.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

It remains only to apply glare with white paint.

Allow eyes to dry well.

Now, with sharp nail scissors, cut out the finished eyes and try on the dolls to the face,

move them, see how it will be better, you can even twist your eyes slightly, while

completely different facial expressions.

This is an individual process, see for yourself how it will look better. As soon as you like it

look of your beauty, mark with a thin sewing needle the control point on which you will

to navigate (for example, the inner corner of the eye), only then glue the eyes into place. Need to glue

one by one. When gluing the first eye, the second remains on the face, do not change its position,

control the position of the glued eye on it.

Let the glue dry and apply acrylic glossy varnish on the eyes. I applied it back (flat)

toothpick side. You do not need to take a lot of varnish, gently touch the surface of the varnish with a toothpick and

then apply it to the eyes and distribute it in a circular motion over the entire surface of the eyes.

The mouth can be embroidered with two stitches of light pink yarn, or you can also draw on fabric and glue

in place.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Tail jewelry

Cut two pieces of thin bead wire d = 0.4 mm 24-26 cm. Yarn dark gray knit

a chain of 24ch.

Note: the length of the chain depends on the thickness of the yarn that you took for the hair.

If the yarn is quite voluminous and the ponytails are magnificent, then ch

should be linked more – 28-30.

Take one piece of wire and tie it under 23sc, on one side of this chain.

Then in the last loop knit 1ch, 1sc, 1ch. Bend the wire in half, attach it to the back

side of this chain and tie another 23sc also by tying the wire.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Now with pink yarn, knit 23cc in the center of the finished strip, as if “flashing” it through.

Bend this knitted strip in the form of a square, bend the ends of the wire perpendicular up.

Pass the tails through these adornments, insert the wire ends in the head directly under the tails and

Sew the threads with the left ends.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Headphones

Take a piece of wire with a cross-section of 2.5 about 16-18 cm long (do not remove insulation) and bend it into

in the form of headphones. Try this blank on Miku’s head, the loops on the ends of the wire should

located just below the ears.

On one loop of this billet, fix the tip of the black yarn with adhesive tape. Wrap this

thread the central part of the headphones tightly to the coil. Fasten the end of the thread to the second loop

headphones with a small piece of adhesive tape.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

For the ears, take yarn in dark gray.

Inner part (2 children)

1 p: ​​6sc into magic ring

2 p: (inc) × 6 = 12

3 p: (1sc, inc) × 6 = 18

4 p: (2sc, inc) × 6 = 24

Outside (2 children)

1 p: ​​6sc into magic ring

2 p: (inc) × 6 = 12

3 p: (1sc, inc) × 6 = 18

4 p: (2sc, inc) × 6 = 24

5 p: (behind the back wall of the loop) 24sc = 24

Fold the outer and inner parts in pairs and knit 18 cc, fastening both of these parts together

(row is not completed). Insert the wire loops of the headphones into these “pockets”, add a little bit (!)

filler and tie the connecting row to the end. No need to fill up much; headphones should be

pretty flat and not look like balls. Cut and fasten the thread, hide the tail on the inside.

Embroider pink yarn on the outside of the headphone “light bulb” and yellow to execute small dots.

You can slightly toned the area around the eyes. Just do not overdo it with a shade, the color of the tint

should be slightly darker than the main tone of the face. And you can leave it as it is.

Gently comb the ponytails of the comb with very rare cloves, align the strings and cut

the ends of the ponytail corners.

Miku is ready!

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

I express my heartfelt thanks to Elena (Elena_rak), Eugenia (nipl) and Nelly

(Nelly) for helping me test Miku. Thanks for the beautiful images created.

you!

This MK is an authoring and is intended for personal use only.

use. Copying, publishing on their pages on social networks and blogs,

as well as the sale of this master class is prohibited.

You can sell toys related to this MK subject to instructions

the author of the description.

Thank you for understanding!