– Yarn (see page one for yarns I´ve used)

– 2,5 mm hook size or a size that fits your yarn

– 3 black 3 mm security eyes (one for the nose)

– Stuffing

– Scissors, tapestry needle, stitch marker and pins

– Felt for the eyes {instead of 3 mm eyes and felt

 you can use 6 or 8 mm security eyes or embroidery

 thread/yarn to sew the eyes}

Abbreviation/US terminology:

Links to some helpful videos on last page!

ch – chain

dc2tog – double crochet two together

dec – decrease

hdc – half double crochet

inc – increase

inc3 – 3 sc in one stitch

inc4 – 4 sc in one stitch

rnd(s) – round(s)

sc – single crochet

sc3tog – single crochet three together

sc4tog – single crochet four together

sc5tog – single crochet five together

slst – slip stitch

st – stitch

(…) – number in parentheses

indicates the number of

stitches at the end of the round

*…* – repeat instructions x times or to

 the end of the round

{…} – work the stitches all into the

same stitch

Notes:

– Do not join rounds, work in a continuous spiral unless otherwise stated.

– Change your yarn always in the last step of the last stitch.

– I mostly go up with a standing sc, hdc or dc instead of ch 1, ch 2 or ch 3. That looks much neater.

– Fasten off your work always with needle join and you´ll get a neat result.

– Stuff your amigurumi as you go. I use a chopstick for that!

– Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the beginning of a round.

– Deedee using the materials described is ~12.99 inches / 33 cm tall (with antlers).

 I would love to see your creations! Maybe you want to share them on

 Instagram using #kikalite

Head – yarn A – stuff the head as you go

Pay attention not to confuse 3 inc (three times

increase) with inc3 (three sc in one stitch). Same

with 4 inc and inc4! Crochet the sc4tog and sc5tog

stitches as tight as you can.

If you´re going to use a piece of felt for the eyes,

prepare it now. Cut out an oval shape (∼ 1,2 x 0,9

cm) and make a little hole in the middle with a

needle (see last page). Insert the 3 mm eye into that

hole and place them in the right position between

rnd 19 and 20.

rnd stitches

1 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

2 6 inc (12)

3 *1 sc, inc* 6x (18)

4 *1 sc, inc, 1 sc* 6x (24)

5 *3 sc, inc* 6x (30)

6 *2 sc, inc, 2 sc* 6x (36)

7 *inc, 5 sc* 6x (42)

8 4 sc, inc3, 12 sc, inc3, 6 sc,

inc3, 12 sc, inc3, 4 sc (50)

9 6 sc, inc3, 12 sc, inc3, 10 sc,

inc3, 12 sc, inc3, 6 sc (58)

10-15 (6 rnds) 58 sc (58)

16 22 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 22 sc (56)

17 21 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 21sc (54)

18 54 sc (54)

19 23 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 23 sc (52)

20 52 sc (52)

21 24 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 23 sc (50)

22 50 sc (50)

23 25 sc, inc4, 24 sc (53)

24 26 sc, 2 inc, 25 sc (55)

→ Insert the eye with the felt

between rnd 19 and 20. The

distance between the eyes

is 10 stitches (12 stitches distance if you don´t use felt).

25 27 sc, sc3tog, 25 sc (53)

26 26 sc, sc3tog, 24 sc (51)

27 25 sc, sc3tog, 23 sc (49)

28 23 sc, sc5tog, 21 sc (45)

→ Insert the nose between

rnd 24 and 25. You can also

sew a nose with embroidery

thread or a piece of yarn.

→ Now we do something

unusual, pay attention!

The last stitch of rnd 29, the

sc4tog, involves the first 2

stitches of rnd 30. After rnd

29 you have to move your

stitch marker to the next

stitch, this is your new

beginning! See pic below.

{The sc4tog and sc5tog

stitches have to be in the

centre, that’s why we change

for the next 3 rnds (rnd 29,

30 and 31) the beginning}.

Pay attention not to confuse

with the number in

parentheses. We count the

stitches after crocheting the

whole round!

29 dec, 2 sc, dec, 13 sc, *sc5tog*

 2x, 12 sc, dec, sc4tog (31)

→ You´ll have 3 stitches un-

 worked after rnd 30. Move

 your stitch marker to the next

stitch, this is your new

beginning!

30 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, *sc5tog* 2x,

 3 sc, dec, 2 sc (21)

→ The last stitch of rnd 31,

the sc5tog, involves the first 4

stitches of rnd 32. After rnd

31 you have to move your

stitch marker to the next

stitch, this is your new

beginning! Don´t worry, this

is the last time we change the

place of our beginning.

31 sc5tog, 15 sc, sc5tog (13)

32 6sc, dec, 5 sc (12)

33-34 (2 rnds) 12 sc (12)

→ Stuff the head and later the

neck section very firmly to

prevent the head from

flopping backward! Please

use a piece of a chopstick,

a dowel or wire to secure the

head. If the holes in the chin

area are disturbing you, take

a piece of yarn and make a

few stitches to cover/hide

them. I don´t care about

them so I left them as they

are.

Rnd 29 before the sc4tog.

The pin marks the 1

st st of

the next rnd.

The red yarn marks the

new beginning of rnd 30.

 1 st st of rnd 30

 ⇓

 ⇐ sc4tog The black yarn marks the

beginning until rnd 28.

Body – yarn A – stuff the body as you go

rnd stitches

35 *1 sc, inc* 6x (18)

36 18 sc (18)

37 *1 sc, inc, 1 sc* 6x (24)

38 24 sc (24)

39 7 sc, ch 4, skip 4 stitches,

8 sc, ch 4, skip 4 stitches,

1 sc (16)

40 7 sc, 4 sc in blo of 4 ch, 8 sc,

4 sc in blo of 4 ch, 1 sc (24)

41 7 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 5 sc (26)

42 26 sc (26)

43 7 sc, inc, 11 sc, inc, 6 sc (28)

44 28 sc (28)

45 7 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 7 sc (30)

46-59 (14 rnds) 30 sc (30)

60 only 14 sc (to reach the side) (30)

→ Ch 1 and close the body

as seen on the pic on right

with single crochet stitches

and fasten off your work.

Arms – 2x – yarn A

rnd stitches

1 See on pic below where to

join the yarn and pay

attention not to skip the

side stitches.

*3 sc, dec* 2x, do not join,

crochet in spiral (8)

2-18 (17 rnds) 8 sc (8)

19 *2 sc, dec* 2x (6)

→ Break yarn and close the

remaining stitches.

Start here with the 1

st

sc.

After rnd 1. Crochet in spiral.

Don´t forget to insert

something to prevent the

head from flopping

backward!

The purple yarn marks the new beginning

of rnd 31.

 ⇑

The black yarn marks the beginning of rnd

32 and all the next rnds.

Legs – 2x – yarn A – stuff the legs as you go

rnd stitches

1 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

2 6 inc (12)

3-38 (36 rnds) 12 sc (12)

→ Ch 1 and close the leg

the same way as the body

with single crochet stitches

and sew it with a whip stitch

to the body.

Antlers – 2x – yarn C – stuff the antlers

lightly as you go

rnd stitches

1 5 sc in magic ring (5)

2-6 (5 rnds) 5 sc (5)

→ Break yarn (don´t need to

fasten off your work).

Crochet two more little

antlers but don´t break

 the yarn on the 3rd antler.

Join the 3rd antler with a sc

to one of the previous

antlers (counts as the first sc

of the following stitches).

7 5 sc on the 2nd antler, 5 sc

on the 3rd antler (10)

8 5 dec (5)

9-12 (4 rnds) 5 sc (5)

13 only 3 sc (to reach the side) (5)

→ Join to the last little antler

with a sc (counts as the first sc

of the following stitches).

14 5 sc on the last antler, 5 sc

 on the main antler (10)

15 5 dec (5)

16-17 (2 rnds) 5 sc (5)

→ Break yarn and leave a

 long tail to sew the antler

 onto the head.

⇓ Back of the leg Front of the doll ⇓

Ears – 2x – yarn A

rnd stitches

1 4 sc in a magic ring (4)

2 *1 sc, inc* 2x (6)

3 *2 sc, inc* 2x (8)

4 *3 sc, inc* 2x (10)

5 *4 sc, inc* 2x (12)

6 *5 sc, inc* 2x (14)

7 *6 sc, inc* 2x (16)

8 16 sc (16)

9 *7 sc, inc* (18)

10 18 (18)

11 *8 sc, inc* (20)

12 20 sc (20)

→ Break yarn and leave a

 long tail to sew the ear in

position. Flatten the ear and

make three stitches through

the layers of the ear as seen

on the pic. Use pins to hold

the ear in position and sew

it onto the head.

Rose A – yarn G

There are two different types and patterns for the

roses on Deedee’s head. I´ve used both of them for

my two girls: 2 of “Rose A” and 5 of “Rose B”.

You need seven roses in total.

Note: It´s easier if you finish off your work and

only leave on one rose a long tail to sew them all

with this one yarn tail in position.

rnd stitches

1 Ch 14, in 3rd ch from hook

{4 hdc}, slst, *{5 hdc},

slst* 5x (36)

→ Break yarn and leave a

 long tail to weave in and out

through the bottom to hold

the rose together after you

curled the piece into a rose

(see pic below) and to sew it

later onto the head.

Rose B – yarn G

rnd stitches

1 Ch 12, in 3nd ch from hook

hdc, *{2 hdc}* 9x (20)

→ Break yarn and leave a

 long tail to weave in and out

through the bottom to hold

the rose together after you

curled the piece into a rose

(see pic below) and to sew it

later onto the head.

 Rose A ⇓

Rose B ⇑

Dress – yarn D

This part sounds a little confusing because of the

yarn changes but it isn´t if you know which colors

you use are yarn B, D and E.

Note: Instead of weaving in ends I prefer to

crochet over the yarn ends and don´t forget to

change your yarn always in the last step of your last

stitch.

rnd stitches

1 Ch 36, join to 1st ch with

a sc to form a ring (in the

back bump behind the chain,

see pic on right), 35 sc (also

in the back bump behind the

chains) (36)

→ Don´t cut the yarn.

Change to yarn E.

2 36 sc (36)

→ Don´t cut the yarn.

Change to yarn B.

3 1 sc, *change to yarn D,

1 sc, change to yarn B, 1 sc*

17x, change to yarn D, 1 sc (36)

→ Cut only yarn B and

change to yarn E.

4 36 sc (36)

→ Break yarn E.

Change to yarn D.

5-13 (9 rnds) 36 sc (36)

14 12 sc, ch 6, skip 6 sc, 12 sc,

ch 6, skip 6 sc (36)

15 12sc, 6 sc in blo of ch 6, 12

sc, 6 sc in blo of ch 6 (36)

→ Change to yarn E.

16 36 sc, join rnd in blo of 1st

stitch with a slst (36)

17 in blo {ch 2, 2 hdc},

*{3 hdc}* 35x (108)

→ Break yarn and fasten off

your work invisible.

→ Attach yarn D with a

standing sc as seen on the

pic below in the 1st stitch of

the 1st round on the back

of your dress.

18 *1 sc, inc* 18x (54)

19-31 (13 rnds) 54 sc (54)

→ Don´t cut the yarn.

Change to yarn E.

32 54 sc (54)

→ Don´t cut the yarn.

Change to yarn B.

33 1 sc, *change to yarn D,

1 sc, change to yarn B, 1 sc*

26x, change to yarn D, 1 sc (54)

→ Break yarn B and D,

change to yarn E.

34 54 sc, slst in 1st st (54)

35 *{ch 2, dc2tog, yarn over and

pull through 3 loops}, skip

two st, slst in next st* 17x,

{ch 3, dc2tog, yarn over and

pull through 3 loops}, skip

two st

→ Break yarn and fasten off

your work invisible with

needle join in 1st st.

Attach yarn for rnd 18

on the back.

Top oft the dress. Now

turn the piece.

1 st sc of rnd 18.

Front of the chains.

Back bump behind the

chain.

Booties – 2x – yarn F

rnd stitches

1 ch 7, insert hook in 2nd ch

from hook: inc, 3 sc, 1 hdc,

{6 hdc}, (don´t turn your

work, crochet on the other

side of the ch) 1 hdc, 3 sc,

inc (18)

2 inc, 6 sc, 4 inc, 6 sc, inc (24)

→ Change to yarn G.

3 in blo 24 sc (24)

4 8 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc (20)

5 8 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc (18)

6 8 sc, dec, 8 sc (17)

7 7 sc, sc3tog, 7 sc (15)

8 6 sc, sc3tog, 6 sc (13)

9-15 (7 rnds) 13 sc (13)

→ Break yarn and leave a

long tail to sew the bootie

later in position.

Stuff only the tip of the

booties and put them on

the legs. See pic below.

Details:

– You can use glue to fix the felt or if you prefer

sew it in place. I just used the eye to hold the felt in

place.

– Use a bit of blush for the cheeks of your doll.