Materials:

1) the basis for the body is PELICAN VITA cotton 50g / 330m. COLOR 3976. Or another cotton with the same footage.

2) shoes and shorts I also recommend using a thread of the same texture as for the body, i.e.

PELICAN VITA cotton 50g / 330m. In your chosen color scheme. Cotton from Rose is also suitable Kirovskaya.

3) hair KAMTEX KARAKUL STRETCH 100gr / 145m. Or other yarn. Any.

4) strong sewing thread in the color of the base, I use the thread for jeans.

5) filler syntepuh.

6) adhesive tape for wrapping the frame: on a polymer basis and on a paper basis – thin.

Width 1 cm. For the manufacture of eyes we use a tissue-based adhesive plaster with a shallow structure (not silk)

7) wire for 1 mm steel frame.

If you use braided wire, 1.5 cm is acceptable.

8) glue crystal moment, glue second gel.

9) for tinting dry pastels

10) synthetic brushes number 1 and 2 for eye decoration. For tinting we use hard brushes.

11) three colors of acrylic paints: white, black and iris color as desired.

12) acrylic primer

13) acrylic varnish.

14) the granulate will be used iron, small, to weight the shoes.

Tools:

1) The most important comment here is the hook 0.9

2) a ruler for determining the size of the spokes is used as a template for the preparation of the eyes.

3) small pliers or pliers

4) I use nail clippers to grab the needle in difficult places.

5) one knitting needle 2.5

6) a stick for sushi or another for stuffing the workpiece.

7) needles: beaded, thin for embroidery eyebrows; plain and darn sewing thick

Abbrevations:

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

hdc – half double crochet

p.shv – buttonhole stitch

dec – decrease

inc – increase

1.Stage

1) 9ch (9)

2) from the second loop 7sc, 3sc into one loop, (*) 6sc, inc. (18)

3) inc, 7sc, inc, 8sc, inc. (21)

4) LEFT: 7sc, 7inc.dc, 2hdc, 5sc. (28)

4) RIGHT: 5sc, 2hdc, 7inc.dc, 7sc. (28)

5) (1sl-st, 1ch. Lift, 1hdc) -all this is knit from the first loop of the 5th row behind the back wall, 27hdc behind the rear walls, 1sl-st (30) (fixed)

(*) – at this point, I open the bundle from the first air loop.

And in VK there is 5 row in a different way. Which option to knit?

Yes, there are changes, but they are not significant, you can knit an option that seems easier.

6) 29 st. (29)

7) behind the rear walls 27sc, 1dec plain (28) *(fixed)

8) 9sc, 5dec, 9sc. (23)

9) Back. Rotary rows. 7sc, rotate knitting.

10) knit on the back wall * 2ch. in the second sc * 13sc. (thirteen)

11) * 12sc. (12)

12) * 11sc. (eleven)

13) * 10sc. (10)

Cut the thread, hide it.

2.Stage

• should the top of the boots be a ladder? For some reason I get it

• yes, a small ladder – at the expense of 2ch, this is a kind of lacing. But if knitting is weak and

a short flight of stairs, then you can do 1 ch.

Insoles

1) use 1mm thick cardboard for the base

2) make a template according to the size of the workpiece circled around the perimeter

3) the patterns should be in mirror image i.e. left and right

4) glue the crystal in the heel area on the glue.

3.Stage

1) for the rear walls of the 10th row of the backdrop from 2x pp (ribs) we form 1sc, 1sc into the occupied loop, 2dec, 1sc, 2dec, 1sc into a busy loop, 1sc to be tied from the back of the item. (9)

2) knit on the back walls! 1ch, 2sc, 1dec, 1sc, 1dec, 2sc. (7)

3) (1ch, in the second sc) * 6sc (6)

4) * 5sc (5)

5) * 4sc (4)

6) * 3sc (3)

7) 3sc (3)

Cut the thread, hide it.

4.Stage

We form a frame for the foot

PS we make the segments of the frame:

10 / 11cm – handles – rocker

11cm – leg

18cm – leg

1) knit 14sc from the half-loop of the boot, evenly distributing in a circle. (5sc from heel to tongue, 4sc on tongue, 5 sc from tongue to heel) (9)

2) 2sc, 5dec, 2sc. (9)

3.4) 9sc. (9)

5) 8sc, 1sl-st. (9)

6) we knit 8sc 1sl-st for the back walls. (9)

5.Stage

1) 4ch.

2) from the second loop 2sc, 3sc into one loop (* dissolve the nodule from the first ch), 2sc. (7)

3) 7sc. (7)

4) (we work in one loop: 1sc, 2ch, 1sc in ch, 1sl-st) 6sc. (10)

5) 10sc (10)

6) 10sc (10)

7) 2dec, 2sc, 1dec, 2sc (7)

8-22) 7sc (7)

6.Stage

1) 9st. Loop seam behind the rear walls. (9)

2) 9sc for the rear walls. (9)

3-7) 9sc (9)

8) 6sc, 2incDC, 1sc (11)

Winding a patch to thicken the thigh

9) 6sc, 2dec, 1sc (9)

10-12) 9sc (9)

13) 1sc, 1inc, 7sc (10)

14-18) 10sc (10)

7.Stage

1) .9sc. With a seam behind the rear walls. (9)

2) 9sc for the rear walls. (9)

3-7) 9sc (9)

8) 5sc, 2incDC, 2sc (11)

Winding a patch to thicken the thigh

9) 5sc, 2dec, 2sc (9)

10-12) 9sc (9)

13) 2sc, 1inc, 6sc (10)

14-18) 10sc

8.Stage

We form a skeleton

• And how many cm between the legs?

I get about 1.6 cm

1) Start with the right leg, bring the main thread (beige) to the center of the inner thigh (I make 3 sl-st) in the fourth we introduce a contrasting thread (underpants) and we knit 10 st. BACK walls, 9ch, left leg (also beige thread to align the center of the inner thigh – I have 2sc, 3sl-st, 1sl-st behind the back wall) with a contrasting thread – guide the thread before work (frame) 10st.pet.shv for REAR walls. (29)

2) 9sc. New row mark.

3) for the rear walls 10sc, 9sc for ch (front), 10sc for the rear walls, 1sc, 3inc, 1sc, 3inc, 1sc (booty) (44)

4-6) 44sc (44)

7) 28sc, (1dec, 1sc) × 6 (38) make 2sc to offset the row.

8) 24sc, (1dec, 1sc) × 5 (33) 1sl-st

9) the color of the carcass – we knit for the back walls 1sl-st, 32st.p. seam. (33) 2 loops row offset.

10) behind the rear walls 33sc (33)

11) 17sc, (1sc, dec) × 5, 1sc (28)

12) 1sc offset, 16sc, (1dec, 1sc) × 4 (24)

13) 24sc (24)

14) 1sc offset, 11sc, dec, 10sc, dec – 1sc offset. * in this row it is necessary to determine decrease in the lateral centers. (22) New row marker, offset 1sc

15) 22sc (22)

16) 9sc, dec, 9sc, dec (20)

17) 20sc (20)

18) 1sc as a row offset. 8sc, dec, 8sc, dec. (18).

19) (1sl-st, 7sc on the handle-right, 1sl-st on the occupied loop), 8sc on the breast, (1sl-st, 7sc on the left handle, 1sl-st in a busy loop), 7sc on the back. Shift the row to the right by 1 loop. (34)

20) dec on the back, dec on the handle, 3sc on the handle, dec on the handle, dec on the breast, 6sc on the breast, dec on breast, dec on rkchke, 3sc on the handle, dec on the handle, dec on the back, 5sc on the back. Row offset right on 1sc. (26)

21) dec on the back, dec on the handle, 2sc handle, dec on the handle, dec on the breast, 3sc on the breast, dec on the breast, dec on the handle, 2sc on the handle, dec on the handle, dec on the back, 2sc on the back. Right shift 1sc (18)

22) dec on the back, dec on the handle, dec on the handle, dec on the breast, dec on the breast, dec on the handle, dec on the handle, dec on the back. Shifting the row to the right by 1sc (9) i.e. only 9 decreases.

23) in this row, decide the number of loops intuitively 7 or 8 – the thickness of the doll’s neck. So: dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec (7)

24, 25) 7sc (7)

26) 1 sc, inc, 5sc (8)

9.Stage

1) 8inc (16)

2) (1sc, inc) * 8 (24)

3) (2sc, inc) * 8 (32)

4) (3sc, inc) * 8 (40)

5) (4sc, inc) * 8 (48)

6) (5sc, inc) * 8 (56)

7) (6sc, inc) * 8 (64)

8-25) 64sc (64)

* you can increase the number of rows by making the head oval

26) (6sc, dec) * 8 (56)

27) (5sc, dec) * 8 (48)

28) (4sc, dec) * 8 (40)

29) (3sc, dec) * 8 (32)

30) (2sc, dec) * 8 (24)

31) (1sc, dec) * 8 (16)

32) dec * 8 (8)

10.Stage

ch

Leave a hole, cut the thread 20 cm, use it to embroider the nose

The photo shows the option of “big” ears

1) Magic ring: 2sc, 1hdc, 3dc, 1hdc, 1p.st, ch (9)

2) turn the knitting and for the rear walls 9st.pet.shv. (9)

3) pull off.

11.Stage

The ears are small:

1) 6sc magic ring. Stitch, sew

1) determine the symmetrical location of the ears by setting markers. Namely, count from the first row of the head is the 11th row – this will be the row of the location of the earlobe. Upper ear (for example) will be located in the 15th row.

1.1) determine the lateral center of the ear and count half the sc horizontally head circumference (32) – set the marker for the location of the second ear.

2) sew the ear with the working thread of the part (ear) in several stitches as shown in the photo, use the hole in the head to fix the working thread Place the nose in the same row with the lower part (earlobe) of the ear, i.e. in the 11th row. Location center can also be calculated mathematically sc from ear to ear. I embroider a nose on 4sc in 3-4 stitch

Position the eyebrows, counting the 8th and 9th row from the nose. Embroider symmetrically as shown in a photo

12.Stage

Girls, this is an important and necessary stage.

We are counting the rows from the first row of the head.

We carry the marker vertically, only at the extreme points of the holes.

1) in the 6th row – retreat from the earlobe vertically down 6 rows and retreat horizontally 7sc, then to every fifth point × 5 holes.

2) in the 9th row – at every fifth point × 7 holes.

3) in the 12th row – in every fifth point – 8 holes.

4) in the 15th row – at every fifth point 9 holes

5) in the 18th row – from the temple to the 4th point, the rest to every fifth point = 10 holes

6) in the 21st row – at the temple in the 4th, then in every fifth point = 11 holes.

7) in the 24th row – alternately 4/5 point = 13 holes

8) in the 26th row, every fifth point = 13 holes

9) “bangs” 4 holes

10) in a circle at every 4th point = 13 holes.

11) and then to the top of the head in a circle repeat the algorithm at every 4th point So, having made the correct marking, it will be easy for you to fix the locks of hair around the circumference heads. Use a strong working thread for sewing strands

For drawing eyes, I use a stencil, fabric adhesive, primer, acrylic paints, brushes.

PS We will cover with varnish afterwards directly on the doll and put the glare too, when it’s already eyes will be glued

I embroider cilia with the “sun” for this, determine the center point and the points of the rays, also use eye blanks or a template for trying on

In tinting, focus on your own feelings

13.Stage

1) Cut out the eyes

2) Put them on the doll’s face

3) glue gel moment squeeze a small amount to the surface

4) using a toothpick, pry off the edge of the eye and apply a small amount of glue with a toothpick so that the glue is evenly distributed, without excess!

5) you need to either clean the toothpick or take another (to remove any glue residue) and roll it in to smooth the eye gently! Only when you make sure that excess glue does not go out can to press the eye with a finger

Follow point 4 and 5 in turn; top – bottom of the eye.

6) with a thin brush, draw a contour around the eye, after drying it can be varnished, and give varnish dry naturally (spread overnight)

14.Stage

1) 49ch

2) 48sc

3) (8sc, dec) × 4, 8sc (44)

4) 44sc

5) (7sc, dec) × 2, 8sc, (dec, 7sc) × 2 (40)

6) 40sc

7) 7sc, (dec, 6sc) × 3, dec, 7sc (36)

8) 36sc

9) (6sc, dec, 5sc, dec) × 2, 6sc (32)

10) 32sc

11) 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 5sc (28)

12) 28sc

13) (4sc, dec) × 4, 4sc (24)

14) 24sc

15) 24sc (if the length of the dress is short, then knit another two rows)

16) 4sc, 5ch, 4sc back, 8sc, 5ch, 4sc back, 4sc.

17) 2sc, dec, 5sc coverage by ch, dec, 4sc, dec, 5sc coverage by ch, dec, 2sc (22)

Hide the thread as shown in the photo.

PS decreases go beyond the back wall only from the wrong side of the product

Termonology
MR Magic Ring
Ch Chain
Sl st slip stitch
Sc single crochet
Hdc half double crochet
Dc double crochet
Tr (or trc) triple (or treble) crochet
Inc increase (Add one or more stitches.)
Dec decrease (Eliminate one or more stitches.)
Turn Turn your work so you can work back for the next row.
Join Join two stitches together; usually done by working a slip stitch in the top of the next stitch.
Rep repeat (Do it again.)

Merry Baby

Head

1: Magic Circle 6sc

2: 6inc (12)

3: (1sc, 1inc) * 6 (18)

4: (2sc, 1inc) * 6 (24)

5: (3sc, 1inc) * 6 (30)

6: (4sc, 1inc) * 6 (36)

7: (5sc, 1inc) * 6 (42)

8: (6sc, 1inc) * 6 (48)

9: (7sc, 1inc) * 6 (54)

10-16: 60sc

17: 6sc, 2ch check – 2 stitch skip, 8sc, 2ch-2 stitch skip, 26c (60) We will put the eyes in the places where we take the zinciz.

18: 60sc

19: 3SC (2SC, 1st) * 6,33sc (66)

20-24 (66)

21 (8sc, 1dec) * 6 (54)

22 (7SCE, 1dec) * 6 (48)

23 (6SC, 1dec) * 6 (42)

24 (5SC, 1dec) * 6 (36)

25: (4sc, 1dec) * 6 (30)

26 (3SC, 1dec) * 6 (24)

27 (2SC, 1dec) * 6 (18)

28 (1SC, 1dec) * 6 (12)

Body

Connect 1: 4 chain with legs 42sc

2-7: 42sc

8 (5SC, 1dec) * 6 (36)

9 (4SC, 1dec) * 6 (30)

10-23: 30sc

24: Add the handles with 5sc (30)

25: 30sc

26 (3SC, 1dec) * 6 (24)

27 (2SC, 1dec) * 6 (18)

28 (1SC, 1dec) * 6 (12)

29-31 (12)

hands

1: Magic Circle 6sx

2: 6inc (12)

3: (1sc, 1inc) * 6 (18)

4-6: 18sc

7: 1sc, 1 popcorn, 16sc (18)

8: (1sc, 1dec) * 6 (12)

9: 12sc

10: 1m, 9SCE (10)

feet

1: Magic Circle 6sc

2: 6sc (12)

3: (1sc, 1inc) * 6 (18)

4-8: 18sc

9: 1ch return, 12sc, 1ch return

10: 1dec, 8sc, 1dec, 1ch return

11: 1dec, 6sc, 1dec, 1ch return

12: 1dec, 4sc, 1dec, we continue to weave

4sc on the side, 6sc on the front, 4sc on the side, rear 6sc. (20)

13: side by side (18)

14: 18sc

15 (1SC, 1dec) * 6 (12)

16-23: (12sc)

24: 1sc, 1dec, 10sc (13)

25: 13sc

26: 2sc, 1inc, 10sc (14)

27: 14sc

28: 3SC, 1st, 10SCE (15)

29-32: 15sc

33: 3SC, 3dec, 2SC, 4inch (16)

34: 16sc

35: 3sc, 3inc, 4sc, 3dec (16)

36: 16sc

37: 6SC, 1st, 9SCE: 17sc

38-47: 17x

Abbreviations:

Sc – single crochet,

inc – increase,

Dec – decrease

Hdc – half crochet

CH – chain

Having a base body for your amigurumi gives you the opportunity to focus your creative energy on the style of your doll. Like this,

you can develop your models with greater freedom and diversity. That is, a base body and many possibilities.

Below is a base body recipe option for your reference:

Arms

1st row: magic ring with 6sc (6)

2nd row: 2inc, 4sc (8)

3rd and 4th row: 8sc (8)

5th row: 3inc, 5sc (11)

6th and 7th row: 11sc (11)

8th row: 1sc, 2dec, 3sc, 1dec, 1sc (8)

9th to 33rd row: 8sc (8)

Legs

The right leg will not have row 41.

1st row: 8ch, 1inc, 5sc, 4sc on the same base point, 5sc, 1 inc (18)

2nd row: 1inc, 6sc, 4inc, 6sc, 1inc (24)

3rd row: 24sc (24)

4th row: 6sc, 10hdc, 8sc (24)

5th row: 6sc, 5dec, 8sc (19)

6th row: 6sc, 3dec, 7sc (16)

7th row: 4sc, 3dec, 6sc (13)

8th row: 3sc, 3dec, 4sc (10)

9th to 12th row: 10sc (10)

13th row: 9sc, 1inc (11)

14th row: 11sc (11)

15th row: 10sc, 1inc (12)

16th to 21st row: 12sc (12)

22nd row: 2dec, sc (10)

23rd row: 4sc, 2inc, 4sc (12)

24th row: 12sc (12)

25th row: 4sc, 1dec, 2sc, 1dec, 4sc (10)

26th row: 10sc (10)

27th row: 9sc, inc (11)

28th row: 11sc (11)

29th row: 10sc, 1inc (12)

30th to 40th row: 12sc (12)

41st row: 4sc, 1sc (5) – left leg only.

Body

Join the legs to form the body:

41st row: 10sc on the right leg, 5ch and connect to the left leg with 1 sc, 11sc, 5sc on the connecting chords, 2sc (34)

42nd row: 10sc, 5sc on the connecting plates, 19sc (34

43rd `47th row: 34sc (34)

48th row: 2sc, 2dec, 13sc, 2dec, 11sc (30)

49th row: 30sc (30)

50th row: 1sc, 2dec, 10sc, 2dec, 11sc (26)

51st row: 26sc (26)

52nd row: (2dec, sc) 2 times (22)

53rd row: 22sc (22)

54th row: (1dec, 9sc) 2 times (20)

55th to 63rd row: 20sc (20)

64th row: (1dec, 8sc) (18)

65th row: 18sc (18)

66th row: Connect the arms, crochet the point of the arm and the body at the same time and do 1sc, and do the remaining 7 sc of the arm.

(18)

67th row: 2sc, 1dec, 2sc, 8sc, 2sc, 1dec, 2sc, 6sc (24)

68th row: (1sc, 1dec, 2sc, 1dec), 1sc, 1dec, 3sc, 1dec, 2sc (18)

69th row: 1sc, (1dec, 1sc) 5 times, 1dec (12)

70th row: 6dec (6)

Head

1st row: magic ring with 6sc (6)

2nd row: 6 inc (12)

3rd row: (1sc, 1inc) 6 times (18)

4th row: (2sc, 1inc) 6 times (24)

5th row: (1sc, 1inc, 2sc) 6 times (30)

6th row: (4sc, 1inc) 6 times (36)

7th row: (2sc, 1inc, 3sc) 6 times (42)

8th row: (1inc, 13sc) 3 times (45)

9th to 17th row: 45sc (45)

18th row: (1dec, 13sc) 3 times (42)

19th row: (2sc, 1dec, 3sc) 6 times (36)

20th row: (1dec, 4sc) 6 times (30)

21st row: (1sc, 1dec, 2sc) 6 times (24)

22nd row: (1dec, 2sc) 6 times (18)

23rd row: (1dec, 1sc) 6 times (12)

24th row: 6 dec (6)

25th `28th row: 6sc (6)

Bazar Horizonte Affiliate

Supplies / What you’ll need :

• Lammy Yarns Rio (or other cotton yarn) in the following colours ; silver (003),

grey (004), white (005), black, skin colour (218).

• Super Soft Yarn from Zeeman ; White

• A 2 mm crochet hook , or a hook matching your yarn

• Yarn needle, embroidery needle

• Safety eyes (8/9 mm diam.)

• Scissors

• Tape measure

• Safety pins

• Stitch markers

• Some blush for the cheeks

• Accessories; e.g. Butterflies, Easter Eggs, ribbons, buttons, … you can find

these online or at a local craft supply or yarn shop or Action, Xenos even

Zeeman or Wibra

• Stuffing (Fiberfill)

• Optional ; embroidery thread

When Jacky is crocheted with a 2mm crochet hook and the indicated yarn, she will

be about 40 cm tall

Stitches / Abbreviations :

Yo Yarn over hook

ch Chain

tCh Turning Chain

Chstch Chain stitch

Slstch Slipstitch

MC Magic Circle

BLO Work into the back loop of the stitch only

tch Turning Chain

TW Turn your work

SC Single Crochet

HDC Half Double Crochet

DC Double Crochet

tog Together

2 tog Crochet 2 stitches together, making one stitch

 out of two or Decrease (Dec)

Inc Crochet two stitches in one stitch making two

 stitches out of one or Increase

(..) Total of stitches after a round or row

R Row or Round

( ) x 6 Repeat the action between brackets, times 6,

or for the indicated number of times

Unless mentioned otherwise, we will be working in continuous rounds ! Also, take

care to watch out for the colour changes in certain parts of the pattern, they will be

indicated as such.

PATTERN

Shoes :

Make two

With black ;

Ch 10

R 1. In 2nd chain from hook ;

SC2, SC7, SC Inc, proceed into the opposite side of the chain ( so, do not turn, just

keep on working in the back bumps of your chain, so you get a continuous ‘spiral’)

SC2 in same chain ( in total you should now have 4 SC’s in the same Chstch ), SC7,

SC Inc (22)

R2. SC Inc, SC1, SC Inc, SC 5, SC Inc, SC1, (SC Inc)x2, SC1, SC Inc, SC5, SC Inc, SC1,

SC Inc (30)

R3. (SC Inc)x2, SC2, SC Inc, SC6, SC Inc, SC2, (SC Inc)x 3, SC2, SC Inc, SC6, SC Inc,

SC2, SC Inc (40)

R4. SC4, SC Inc, SC15, (SC Inc)x 2, SC13, SC Inc, SC4 (44)

R5. BLO SC 44 around (44),

R6. Change colour to grey SC44 around (44)

R7 – R8.SC 44 around (44)

R9. SC18, (SC1, SC Dec)x 6, SC11 (38)

R10. SC38 around (38)

R11. SC12, (SC1, SC Dec)x 6, SC8 (32)

R12. SC32 around (32)

R13. SC10, (SC Dec)x 8, SC6 (24)

R14. SC24 around (24)

R15. (SC2, SC Dec)x 6 (12)

R16. SC12 around (12)

Change colour to grey

R17. SC4 ( you arrive in the middle of the back part of the shoe), change to white,

Slstch, SC18 (18)

R18. HDC18 around (18)

R19 – R20. HDC 18 around (18)

R21. (HDC 2, HDC Inc)x 6 (24)

R22. HDC 24 around (24)

R23. HDC23, SC1, HDC1 (24)

Fasten Off. Leave a tail for sewing the leg into the shoe later on. Fold over the ribbing

(brim) of the shoe. Make the second shoe.

Stuff only the shoe part, not the brim. You’ll need this space later on, for the leg.

Legs :

Make two

With silver, we first start making a sock ;

SC 6 into MC

R 1. ( SC Inc ) x 6 (12)

R2 – R 7. SC12 around (12)

Change to White

R 8. SC12 around (12)

R 9. SC12 around (12)

Change to silver

R 10. SC12 around (12)

R 11. SC12 around (12)

Change to white

R12. SC12 around (12)

R13. SC 12 around (12)

Change to skin colour

R14 – R41. SC12 around ( 28 Rnds) ** (12)

Change to grey

R42. SC12 (12)

R43 – R44. SC12 around (12)

R45. (SC3, SC Inc)x 3 (15)

** Start stuffing the leg around Rnd 23, right up to approx. a cm above the last white

stripe of the sock. You will not stuff the remainder of the leg, since it is supposed to be

‘floppy, wobbly’ so it ‘falls’ nicely when you put your Jacky onto the edge of a

cupboard, on the mantelpiece or on the windowsill and the legs won’t stick straight

out !

Fasten off and weave in ends of the first leg after R45.

Do not fasten off the second leg. Instead, you will Ch 3 after R45, attach this Ch onto

the first leg with a SC and SC around the perimeter of the leg. Ch3 after this Rnd as

well, proceeding to attach this Ch3 with SC onto the first leg as well (36 SC)

Now, you will continue with the rest of …

Body :

With silver ;

R1 – R12. SC 36 around (36)

R 13. Make a few SC’s so as to arrive in the middle of the back.

Change to white , SC 36 (36)

R 14. Change back to silver BLO SC5, SC Dec, SC2, SC Dec, SC12, SC Dec, SC2, SC

Dec, SC7 (32)

R15. SC6, SC Dec, SC15, SC Dec, SC6 (30)

R16. SC7, SC Dec, SC14, SC Dec, SC5 (28)

R17. SC8, SC Dec, SC13, SC Dec, SC4 (26)

Leave the body for now. We will start on the skirt

I begin working on the skirt at this point, because the body isn’t stuffed yet, so it’s

easier to manipulate. I fasten off the body part, and re-attach later, because the

yarn end with the skein tends to twist and turn and get tangled when I’m working on

the skirt, and this bothers me. However, if you’re ok with it, by all means, leave it as is,

so you can pick your yarn up later.

Position the body, its opening facing you, legs pointing upward. Attach white yarn

into the loops of R14.

The Skirt :

With white

R1 Start by making an SC Increase in every stitch around, close the Rnd with a Slstch

(72)

R2. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

R3. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

Change to Silver

R4. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

R5. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

Change to Grey (004)

R6. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

R7. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

Change to black

R8. (SC3 into 1)x 72 (216)

Fasten Off, weave in ends

Sew the crotch shit and stuff the body. You will be stuffing the rest of the body as you

go. You will not stuff the neck, a special part will be made for support purposes ,

which I call the ‘sausage’

Proceed with making the body ;

R18. SC 7, SC Dec, SC12, SC Dec, SC3 (24)

R19. SC7, SC Dec, SC11, SC Dec, SC2 (22)

R20. SC7, SC Dec, SC10, SC Dec, SC1 (20)

R21. With silver SC7, SC Dec, SC9, SC Dec, SC2 (18)

Change to skin colour

R22. SC4, SC Dec, SC8, SC Dec, SC2 (16)

R23. SC4, SC Dec, SC7, SC Dec, S1 (14)

R24. SC4, SC Dec, SC6, SC Dec (12)

R25 – R28. SC12 around (12)

Now for the head. Do not fasten off, but continue onwards from R28 as follows ;

The Head :

R29. (SC1, SC Inc)x 6 (18)

R30. (SC2, SC Inc)x 6 (24)

R31. (SC3, SC Inc)x 6 (30)

R32. (SC4, SC Inc)x 6 (36)

R33. (SC5, SC Inc)x 6 (42)

R34. (SC6, SC Inc)x 6 (48)

R35 – R43. SC 48 around ** (48)

** place a stitch marker in between row 39 and row 40, you will attach your safety

eyes here later.

When I start decreasing i the head part, I tend to change the colour from skin colour

to white, this allows me to determine the positioning of the hair more accurately later

on. This is a personal preference of course, and if you prefer continuing in skin colour,

please feel free to do so !

R44. (SC6, SC Dec)x 6 (42)

R45. (SC5, SC Dec)x 6 (36)

R46. (SC4, SC Dec)x 6 (32)

R47. (SC6, SC Dec)x 6 (24)

The Sausage :

Before you continue Decreasing, you will make the ‘sausage’ for the neck part.

Starting with skin colour ;

SC 5 into MC

R1. (SC Inc) around (10)

R2 – R14. SC10 around (10)

Stuff firmly, it is important that the sausage be firm to be able to support the neck, so

don’t skimp on the Fiberfil !

Place the sausage in the neck, making sure it covers it and that the bottom part of

the sausage meets the body. ( you can gentle squeeze the body to feel where it

should go)

The Eyes and the Nose :

Attach the safety eyes in between R 11 & R 12 of the head, leaving a space of about

8 stitches in between them.

If you do this at this point, you can still easily add eyelashes to the eyes before

securing them, because the stitches can still be easily reached with your needle.

I usually use a piece of black 4ply cotton thread, of which I remove two strands. You

can also use embroidery thread if you have this, and glue on some fake lashes,

whichever you prefer.

Now, create a nose with the skin coloured yarn , one row down and in between the

eyes. Make two stitches over the width of 2 v-stitches (SC’s)).

Stuffing the Head :

In order for the head to have a nice, round and even shape, without lumps or

bumps, it is key to stuff it with care.

I proceed as follows ;

Put four fingers into the head, carefully stretching the fabric of the bottom part with

your index finger and your middle finger. Don’t stretch your crochet work out too

much, though ! Take some Fiberfil, pry it open, gently place it across the bottom of

the head, repeat, working in layers as it were and making sure to carefully line all the

sides as well. The middle part is left unfilled for now, so it should look a bit like a donut.

You stuff the middle in the end of the stuffing process, this when the sides are all

lined, this is for an even result, without lumps, from the bottom up, all the way to the

top.

You can give the cheeks a flush of colour, or even make a freckle or two ?

I use light pink blush and apply it with an eyeshadow brush. Dip the brush into the

blush, swipe over a paper towel to remove the excess and apply carefully. Less is

more, so apply carefully, you can always add more if need be. If you apply too

much, you won’t be able to correct it anymore, so I urge you to be vigilant !

Proceed with closing the head ;

R48. (SC2, SC Dec)x 6 (18)

R49. (SC1, SC Dec)x 6 (12)

Fasten off, weave in ends.

The Arms :

(Make two)

With skin colour ;

R 1. SC 5 into MC (5)

R 2. (SC Inc)x 5 (10)

R 3 – R6. SC 10 around (10)

! Change to silver

R 7 – R 30. SC 10 around ** (10)

** Start stuffing when you’ve arrived at approx. Rnd 12.

You will not stuff the rest of the arm, just like the legs aren’t stuffed completely . This is

to ensure the arms from falling/hanging nicely at the sides of the body.

Pinch the arm together and crochet together two by two stitches. (4)

Attach both arms onto the body at approx. the height of the neck, right where the

colour changes from skin colour to silver.

Ribbing/Brim for the neck :

This part of the pattern is crocheted in rows, not in a spiral.

The finished piece should look like a small rectangle.

With silver ;

R1. Ch 8, SC into 2nd from hook, SC6, tCh (7)

R2 – R 22. SC7 , tCh around for 21 rows (7)

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Depending on how firmly you’ve stuffed the body, you might need to make a row or

two extra here.

Fold in two and sew shut at the ‘short’ sides. Place onto the colour change of the

neck part (silver to skin colour), with the fold facing up.

Because it can be a bit of a challenge to attach this part, I always pin it into place

first. I also press the arms down to the sides of the body, in order to make it easier to

wrap the ribbing around the neck. Sew together the two short sides of your

rectangle, creating a seam, which should be positioned at back of the neck. Secure

the ribbing onto the body with a few strategically placed stitches. Be careful not to

pull your stitches too tough, or you will get an uneven, ‘bumpy’ result !

The Ribbing for the Sleeves/Arms :

(Make two)

This part of the pattern is crocheted in rows, not in a spiral.

The finished piece should look like a small rectangle.

With silver ;

R1. Ch 8, SC into 2nd from hook, SC 6, tch (7)

R2 – R 17. SC7 , tCh around (7)

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

You might also need a row or two more here, again depending on how firmly the

arms have been stuffed. Fold over the finished piece, sew close on the shortest sides,

pin into place and attach to the arm where the colour changes from silver to skin

colour, the fold facing down. Sew both short sides together, creating a seam. Secure

with a few stitches, making sure your seam faces the back of the arm. Again, do not

pull too hard on the stitches here, so you don’t get any ‘lumps’, and the ribbing stays

nice and even.

The Socks :

(Make two)

This part of the pattern is crocheted in rows, not in a spiral.

The finished piece should look like a small rectangle.

With white ;

R1. Ch 8, SC into 2nd from hook, SC6, tCh (7)

R2 – R 19. SC7, tCh around (7)

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Depending on how firmly you’ve stuffed the body, you might need to make a row or

two extra here.

Fold in two and sew shut at the ‘short’ sides. Place onto the colour change, with the

fold facing up.

Pin into place. Sew together the two short sides of your rectangle, creating a seam,

which should be positioned at the back of the leg. Secure the ribbing onto the leg

with a few strategically placed stitches. Be careful not to pull your stitches too tough,

or you will get an uneven, ‘bumpy’ result !

Assembly for Leg & Shoe :

Now it’s time to put some shoes on !

You will attach the leg to the shoe, using the tail of the Supersoft yarn you’ve left out

before. First, work the yarn tail up to the middle of the ribbing. Next, unfold , place

the leg into the opening and carefully guide your yarn tail through the shoe and

through the leg and back again, thus securing the shoe onto the leg. Don’t pull too

tightly on your stitches and make sure the toes of shoes are pointing forward ! These

stitches should be made at about mid-height, right where you’ve just worked up your

yarn tail, making sure the leg is positioned deep enough into the shoe.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Fold the ribbing back over. Repeat this process for the

second leg.

Hair

(‘Wig’ part)

With black ;

R 1. SC 6 into MC or Ch 2 and SC 6 into first Chstch (6)

R 2. ( SC Inc ) x 6 (12)

R 3. ( SC 1, SC Inc )x 6 (18)

R 4. ( SC 2, SC Inc )x 6 (24)

R 5. ( SC 3, SC Inc )x 6 (30)

R 6. ( SC 4, SC Inc )x 6 (36)

R 7. ( SC 5, SC Inc )x 6 (42)

R 8. ( SC 6, SC Inc )x 6 (48)

R 9 – R 17. SC 48 around (48)

R 18. Slstch around, work loosely!

Fasten off, leave long tail for sewing.

Hair Buns :

Make two

With black ;

R 1. SC 6 into MC or Ch 2 and SC 6 into first Chstch (6)

R 2. ( SC Inc ) x 6 (12)

R 3. ( SC 1, SC Inc )x 6 (18)

R 4. ( SC 2, SC Inc )x 6 (24)

R 5 – R 6. SC 24 around (24)

R 7. ( SC 2, SC Dec)x 6 (18)

Fasten off, leave long tail for sewing the buns onto the hair.

Where you put them, is down to your imagination.

I usually put mine rather high up onto the head ( in between Rnds 7 & 11, counting

from the MC on the ‘wig’ hair part you’ve just created )

First, I encourage you to pin down the buns, so you can still move them, see what

looks best. Find the placement that ‘works’ for you and sew shut about 3/4ths of the

bun. This way, you can still stuff them more, if need be.

We all like nice, tight looking buns, don’t we ? �

Accessories :

Now, for the most fun part. After all your hard crochet work, you can relax and start

decorating your Jacky. You can use whatever you fancy and what you feel your

version of Jacky needs. You can adapt her to the Season, make a boy version of

Jacky with some trousers, change her hairstyle, add flowers, buttons, … The

possibilities are endless !

Is she ready ? Put her in the spotlights and show her off, share her with the rest of the

World !

Variations :

You can let your creative juices flowing and customise this pattern to your taste ! I’ve

lined up some of my ‘Jacky’-creations for inspiration. For example, mind the detail on

the shoes.

And what do you think about the Easter-Jacky ? Aren’t they cute ?

The Low Shoes (ballerina’s) :

These are not made separately, but are attached to the leg.

Proceed as follows ;

R1 – R 9 : See description Shoe n°1, then change to sock colour

R10. Same as in description of shoe n°1 (see pg. 5) but BLO (!)

R11 – R16. Same as in description shoe n°1 (see pg. 5)

R17. (SC1, SC Inc)x 6 (12)

R18 – R23. SC23 around (23)

Change to skin colour and proceed with the rest of the shoe pattern from R24

onwards.

In order to accentuate the shoe, make a few stitches (colour of the shoe) into the

front loops of R10.

Next, Ch30, and wrap this chain forming an ‘X’ around on the front of the foot, right

beneath the ribbing, wrapping it further around onto the back of the leg. Secure it at

the back of the leg (see photo).

Tiny Daisy Flower for the Low Shoe * :

With yellow ;

R 1. SC 6 into MC , Slstch,

Change to White ;

R 2. (Ch3, SC1)x 5

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

(*The pattern of this Daisy Flower is by Christel Krukkert, from her book ‘Christels’

Knuffels’, it’s the flower on the dress of the little pig.)

MATERIALS

Kartopu Organica color no: K1219 (Skin )

Kartopu Organica color no: K1920 (Grey)

Kartopu Organica color no: K010 (White)

Kartopu Organica color no: K258 (Pink)

Kartopu Organica color no: K245 (Pink for

candy)

Kartopu Organica color no: K331 (Yellow)

Kartopu Organica color no: K0380 (Blue)

Alize coton gold color no: 688 (Hair)

 2,2 mm crochet hook, sewing needle,

Polyester fiberfill for stuffing,

 8 mm safety eyes.

ABBREVIATIONS:

Magic ring: Magic ring,

 sc: single crochet,

İNC: increase,

DEC: decrease,

 x: repeat.

BLO: Back Loop only,

FLO: Front Loop only,

DC: Double crochet.

DECDC: Double crochet decrease,

İNCDC: Double crochet increase.

HEAD:

1. 6 sc in magic ring: 6 sc,

2. 6inc : 12 sc,

3. (1 sc, İNC) x 6 : 18 sc,

4. (2 sc, İNC) x 6 : 24 sc,

5. (3 sc, İNC) x 6 : 30 sc,

6. (4 sc, İNC) x 6 : 36sc,

7. (5 sc, İNC) x 6 : 42 sc,

8. (6 sc, İNC) x 6 : 48 sc,

9. (7 sc, İNC) x 6 : 54 sc,

10. (8 sc, İNC) x 6 : 60 sc,

11-15. 60 sc, ( 5 Rows )

16. (14 sc, İNC ) x 4 : 64 sc,

17-20. 64 sc, ( 4 Rows )

21. (15 sc, İNC ) x 4 : 68 sc,

22-24. 68 sc, ( 3 Rows )

25. (16 sc, İNC ) x 4 : 72 sc,

26-28. 72 sc, ( 3 Rows )

29. (7 sc, DEC) x 8 : 64 sc,

30. (6 sc, DEC) x 8 : 56 sc,

Insert the safety eyes between round

21 and 22, leave 12 hole between them.

31. (5 sc, DEC) x 8 : 48 sc,

32. (4 sc, DEC) x 8 : 40 sc,

33. (3 sc, DEC) x 8 : 32 sc,

34. (2 sc, DEC) x 8 : 24 sc,

35. (4 sc, DEC) x 4 : 20 sc, finish it with

slip stitch, leave long yarn tail for

sewing and fill the head.

FOOT-LEG

1. Chain 7, leave 1 and sc next, 1 İNC, 4 sc, 3 sc in 1, 5 sc : 14 sc,

2. 2 İNC, 4 sc, 3 İNC, 4 sc, 1 İNC : 20 sc,

3-4. 20 sc, ( 2 Rows )

5. 1 DEC, 9 sc, 1 DEC, 7 sc : 18 sc,

6-7. 18 sc, ( 2 Rows )

8. 1 DEC, 8 sc, 1 DEC, 6 sc : 16 sc,

9-10. 16 sc, ( 2 Rows )

11-16. Chain 1, turn, 5 sc : 5 sc, ( 6 times)

17. 4 sc, take 1 sc from side 1 sc from middle and decrease, 1 DEC, 5 sc, 1 DEC, take 1 sc from middle

1 sc from side and decrease, 4 sc, 1 DEC, 1 sc, 1 DEC: 20 sc,

18. 3 sc, 3 sc in 1 (decrease), 5 sc, 3 sc in 1 (decrease), 6 sc : 16 sc,

19-37. 16 sc, (19 Rows)

38. 15 sc, (Leave 1 from dec row) fill the leg.

39. Put two side together and crochet 8 sc,

40. Chain 1, crochet both side of your 8 sc : 16 sc,

41-48. 16 sc, (8 Rows)

Change color to Pink,

49-56. 16 sc, ( 8 Rows )

finish it with slip stitch and fill the leg.

Make the second leg with same pattern.

BODY

We will join the legs and continue to body from here.

1. Start with first leg. From back side, put two side together ang crochet 8 sc, chain 6 on the

middle, fort he second leg, put two side together ang crochet 8 sc : 22 sc,

2. Chain 1, Crochet both side of your 22 sc : 44 sc,

3. ( 10 sc, 1 İNC ) x 4 : 48 sc,

4-9. 48 sc, ( 6 Rows)

 Change color to White,

10.. BLO 48 sc,

11. 48 sc,

 Change color to Grey,

12. 48 sc,

 Change color to White,

13-14. 48 sc, ( 2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

15. 48 sc,

 Change color to White,

16-17. 48 sc, ( 2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

18. 48 sc,

 Change color to White,

19-20. 48 sc, ( 2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

21. 48 sc,

 Change color to White,

22. 48 sc,

23. ( 10 sc, 1 DEC ) x 4 : 44 sc,

 Change color to Grey,

24. 44 sc,

 Change color to White,

25. 44 sc,

26. (9 sc, 1 DEC) x 4 : 40 sc,

 Change color to Grey,

27. 40 sc,

 Change color to White,

28. 40 sc,

29. (6 sc, 1 DEC) x 5 : 35 sc,

 Change color to Grey,

30. 35 sc,

 Change color to White,

31. 35 sc,

32. (5 sc, 1 DEC) x 5 : 30 sc,

 Change color to Grey,

33. 30 sc,

 Change color to White,

34. 30 sc,

35. (4 sc, 1 DEC) x 5 : 25 sc,

 Change color to Grey,

36. 25 sc,

 Change color to skin color,

37. BLO  25 sc,

38. (3 sc, 1 DEC) x 5 : 20 sc,

39. 20 sc, finish it with slip stitch and fill

the body.

Our toy’s neck is slim as you see. We need to help it with dec device. I used dec flag stick for

support the head. You can also use wire or thick straw too. We prepare it for 6 cm long. Insert

3 cm inside to neck and body, 3 cm inside to head.

ARMS:

Start with skin color.

1. 8 sc in magic ring: 8 sc,

2. (1 sc, 1 İNC ) x 4 : 12 sc,

3-5. 12 sc, (3 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

6. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

7-8. 35 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

9.. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

10-11. 12 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

12.. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

13-14. 12 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

15. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

16-17. 12 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

18. 12 sc, fill this part of your arm,

 Change color to White,

19. 6 DEC : 6 sc,

20. 6 İNC : 12 sc,

 Change color to Grey,

21. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

22-23. 12 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

24. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

25-26. 12 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

27. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

28-29. 12 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

30. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

31-32. 12 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

33. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

Chain 1, Put two side together and crochet 6

sc : 6 sc, finish it with slip stitch, leave long

yarn tail for sewing.

JUMPER

 2 chain in the beginning will count as dec DC.

1. Chain 25, slip stitch to first chain and make dec ring. Chain 2 and crochet 24 DC : 25 DC,

2-6. Slip stitch to first DC, chain 2 and up, 24 DC : 25 DC, ( 5 Rows)

Slip stich to first DC and finish. Make the second leg but don’t cut the yarn. We will crochet from

here. Chain 3 for middle of your legs. Slip thitch to first leg. The join point must be back of your

jumper.

1. Chain 2 and up, 1 DC in same stich ( this mean dec İNC), 23 DC, 2 İNCDC, 1 DC, 2 İNCDC, 23 DC, 2

DCV, 1 DC, 1 İNCDC : 64 DC,

2. Slip stich to First DC, chain 2 and up, 6 DC, 1 İNC, ( 7 DC, 1 İNCDC ) x 7 : 72 DC,

3-5. Slip stich to First DC, chain 2 and up,71 DC, ( 3 Rows)

6. Slip stich to First DC, chain 2 and up, 7 DC, 1 İNC, ( 8 DC, 1 İNCDC ) x 7 : 72 DC,

7. Chain 1, up, 8 sc, chain 3, (Leave 14 for pocket), 26 sc, chain 3, (Leave 14 for pocket), 18 sc : 58

sc,

8-9. Chain 2 and up, 57 DC : 58 DC, ( 2 Rows )

10. Chain 2 and up, 1 DECDC each side, DC rest of the row : 56 DC,

11. Chain 2 and up, 11 DC, 1 DECDC, ( 12 DC, 1 DECDC ) x 3 : 52 DC,

12. Chain 2 and up, 10 DC, 1 DECDC, ( 11 DC, 1 DECDC ) x 3 : 48 DC,

13. Chain 1 and up, 28 sc, don’t finish the row, chain 1 turn,

14-19. 12 sc, chain 1 turn,

20. Continue to side, 6 sc to side, 36 sc,

continue to other side, 6 sc, slip stich to the

next stich. We will continue with suspenders

like the Picture. Chain 45, slip stich to other

side. Chain 1 and turn, 45 sc, slip stich to

beginning of the chain. You should have dec

ring. Dress your baby first and sew he

suspender on back of the jumper from middle

point.

POCKET:

1. Chain 13, leave 2 and turn, make 11 DC:

12 DC,

2. Chain 2 and turn, 2 DC, 1 İNCDC, 4 DC, 1

İNCDC, 3 DC : 14 DC,

3. Chain 2 and turn, 2 DC, 1 İNCDC, 5 DC, 1

İNCDC, 3 DC : 16 DC,

4. Chain 2 and turn, 2 DC, 1 İNCDC, ( 3 DC, 1

İNCDC) x 3 : 20 DC,

5. Chain 2 and turn, 19 DC,

6. Chain 2 and turn, 3 DC, 1 İNCDC, ( 4 DC, 1

İNCDC) x 3 : 24 DC,

7. Chain 2 and turn, 24 DC, Finish it and

leave dec long yarntail for sewing.

Sew your pocket from row 6 to row 12 like

the Picture.

CANDY 1:

With Pink:

1. Chain 42, leave 2, 40 DC : 41 DC,

finish and leave dec long yarntail for

sewing.

With White:

1. Chain 34, leave 2, 32 DC : 33 DC,

finish it.

For stick part.

1. Make 6 sc in Magic ring : 6 sc,

2-8. 6 sc, (7 rows) Finish with slip stich

and leave dec long yarntail for sewing.

Put your two part together and make roll

like the Picture. Sew your candy to stick.

Wrap dec piece of White yarn to sewing

point and hide the yarntail.

CANDY 2:

Start with yellow:

1. 6 sc in Magic ring : 6 sc,

2. 6 İNC : 12 sc,

3. ( 1 sc, 1 İNC ) x 6 : 18 sc,

4. ( 2 sc, 1 İNC ) x 6 : 24 sc,

5-8. 24 sc, ( 4 Rows)

9.. ( 2 sc, 1 DEC ) x 6 : 18 sc,

10. ( 1 sc, 1 DEC ) x 6 : 12 sc,

11. 6 DEC : 6 sc, fill your candy.

Change color to white,

12-18. 6 sc, (7 Rows)

19. Close your stick with needle and hide

the yarn. Wrap dec piece of pink yarn to

sewing point and hide the yarntail. Make

little points on the candy like the Picture.

SEWING NOTES:

 If you sew arms before sew head this

will be easier. Sew the arms to row

34-35.

 With dec few black or blue yarn make

little eyebrows on row 17 like the

picture.

 Make the nose with skin color yarn

between row 22. And row 23. Leave 2

hole.

 With dec few skin color yarn make

eyelash like the Picture.

 Sew your suspender’s back side like

the pictures.

 Use some blusher for cheeks and top of her nose.

 Add your hair from top to row 8.

 Make 2 braid on front side of hair like

the Picture. You can make little braids

other side of the hair too. Cut your

dolls hair with dec scissor and shape like me.

 You can dress your Amanda doll and

also add glasses. Your Amanda doll is ready.

Abbreviations

sc = single crochet
inc = the increased
dec = decrease
Blo = knitting the back thread of the loop
m = (1single crochet from 3 stitches) decrease
sl-st = slip stitch

Materials

25cm only on arm and 10cm copper wire on neck
about 35 cm for sewing of synthetic hair.
-2.5 mm crochet and 2.5 mm skewers
ropes viburnum amigurumi and yarnart happy
1pc big size button for weft
1pc medium size button for dress
Blue black white and brown lace ropes for eyes

BELLA DOLL PATTERN

Pattern: @morbella

ARMS

With skin color …

1)Magic ring 6sc

2) (2inc,sc)*2=10sc

3) 2sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 2sc= 12sc

4-6) 12sc

7) 2dec, 8sc =10sc

8) 2dec, 6sc =8sc

9) -28) 8sc

“Sl-st to the last loop, finish.”

LEGS

“With the boot color …

Take 7chains and start knitting from 2nd chain

1) 5sc to the last hole, 4sc, 4sc, inc = 15sc

2) inc, 4sc, 4inc, 4sc, 2inc =22sc

3) inc, 3sc, (sc, inc)*6, 5sc, inc= 30sc

4) BLO 30sc

5-7) 30sc

(Between 4th and 5th rows, turn over and turn 30 sl-st)

8) 9sc, 6dec, 9sc =24sc

9) 9sc, 3dec, 9sc =21sc

10) 21sc

11) 4sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 3sc=19sc

12) 19sc

13) 4sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 3sc=17sc

14-15) 17sc

16) 3sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 2sc =15sc

17-18) 15sc

19) 3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 2sc =13sc

20-21) 13sc

Proceed immediately with cut skin color

22) BLO 13sc

23-40) 18 rows 13sc

Boat color with 21 to 22 ranks 13 sl-st

Resume with white

41) 13sc

42) 12sc, 1sl-st cut the rope. = for left foot

42) 13sc + 7sc = continue without cutting the rope for the right foot.

For distortions (inc or dec) from the knitting shape or yarn, sc can be made.

You can adjust the joint location according to the situation.

LEG CONNECTION

Connect 5 chains to the sl-st on the left foot.

43) 13sc, chain 5sc, 13sc, chain 5sc = 36sc

(Put locator here)

44) (5sc, inc) * 6 = 42sc

45-48) 4 rows 42sc

49) (19sc, dec) * 2 = 40sc

50) (18sc, dec) * 2 = 38sc

51) (17sc, dec) * 2 = 36sc

52) (16sc, dec) * 2 = 34sc

53) (15sc, dec) * 2 = 32sc

Switch to skin color

54) (14sc, dec) * 2 = 30sc

55) (13sc, dec) * 2 = 28sc

55-56) 11 rows 28sc

ARM JOINING

67) 8sc, 3sc left arm assemble, 10sc, 3sc right arm assemble, 4sc = 28sc

68) 8sc, 5sc left arm tie, 10sc, 5sc right arm tie, 4sc
(Put the wire on the arms at this time)

69) 32sc

70) 7sc, 2m, 10sc, 2m, 3sc = 24sc

71) 5sc, 2m, 6sc, 2m, sc = 16sc

72) (2sc, dec) * 4 = 12sc

73-76) 4 rows 12sc
(Insert the wire for the neck in this order)

HEAD

Continue without cutting the rope …

77) 12inc = 24sc

78) sc, inc, (sc, inc) * 11, sc = 36sc

79) (5sc, inc) * 6 = 42sc

80) 3sc, inc, (6sc, inc) * 5, 3sc = 48sc

81) (7sc, inc) * 6 = 54sc

82-97) 16 rows 54sc

98) (7sc, dec) * 6 = 48sc

99) 3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) * 5, 3sc = 42sc

100) (5sc, dec) * 6 = 36sc

101) 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) * 5, 2sc = 30sc

102) (3sc, dec) * 6 = 24sc

103) sc, dec, (2sc, dec) * 5, sc = 18sc

104) (sc, dec) * 6 = 12sc

105) 6dec = 6sc

(Collect all loops with needle and hide the rope)

BELLA BABY DRESS
(With 2.5 mm skewers)

ip snowball amigurumi

Start with 22 single stitches, first row purl
1-11) 1 row length purl, 1 row length as knit (11 rows) (22 stitches)

Increases will always be straight while knitting! All of them will be purl with increments during purl.
You will do the enhancements by threading the rope on the skewer.

12) 4 knit 1 inc 1 knit 1 inc 2knit 1 inc 1 knit 1 inc 6knit 1 inc 1 knit 1 inc 2knit 1 inc 1 knit 1 inc 4 knit

13) All in increments, purl (30 stitches)

14) 5 knit 1 inc 1 knit 1 inc 4 knit 1 inc 1 knit 1 inc 8knit 1 inc 1 knit 1 inc 4 knit 1 inc 1 knit 1 inc 5knit

15) All in increments, purl (38 stitches)

16) 6knit 1 inc 1 knit 1 inc 6 knit 1 inc 1 knit 1 inc 10knit 1 inc 1 knit 1 inc 6knit 1 inc 1 knit 1 inc 6knit

17) All with purple (46)

18) 7knit 1 inc 1 knit 1 inc 8 knit 1 inc 1 knit 1 inc 12knit

19) All purl with figs

20) 9knit 9dec18knit 9dec9knit

21) Purl along the row (36)

22-33) (1 row knit 1 row purl) (36 stitches)

34) (1 knit 1 inc) 36 times (72mile)

35) All with purple (72)

36-65) (1 row knit 1 row purl) (72)

66-69) Knit along the row (harosha) (72)

70) Cut all of the loops and leave long rope for sewing and finish !!
“With the stitch technique, the skirt is perpendicular to the augmentation section !!
the remaining rope with single crochet technique and chain with two buttonhole make !!

WEFT
(with yarnart happy)

Start with 6 single loops.

Continue for buttonhole

2 knit 2 cut 2 knit, turn
2 purl 2 inc 2 purl, top
6 knit, turn
6 purl, turn
6 cut, finish.

“button at the start part of the appropriate place perpendicular !!

HAT

(with yarnart happy)

“Start with 40 single stitches.
Keep about 8cm knit

20 dec
20 stitches
10 dec
10 stitches
5 dec
5 stitches

“Collect all the loops and steep !!

Eye Processing

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Abbreviations (vs US Symbol Definition) :

CH = Chain Stitch (CH)

X = Single Crochet (SC)

V = SC at indicated stitch 2 times (Single Crochet Increase)

A = Crochet together 2 SC (Single Crochet Decrease)

T = HDC (Half Double Crochet)

TV = HDC at indicated stitch 2 times (HDC Increase)

TA = Crochet together 2 HDC (HDC Decrease)

F = Double Crochet (DC)

FV = DC at indicated stitch 2 times (DC Increase)

FA = Crochet together 2 DC (DC Decrease)

S = slst = Slip Stitch

W = sc3tog= SC next 3 stitches together at a time

M = Crochet together 3 SC

* = repeat

E = Treble crochet (TR)

(This pattern may not use all above Abbreviations . Providing for your future use)

Materials :

Yarn ex005 (White, Skin color, Navy/dark Blue, Blue, Pink, Light Pink, Red,

Yellow).

 Organic cotton yarn (purple)

Supporting

Materials : Button (5mm), cotton, Aluminum wire

Tools : Hooks (1.25mm, 1.5mm, 1.75mm), sewing needle, cutter, glue, powder blush

Arm x 2 (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 Thumb – (White color) Loop 4X 4

2 4X 4

1 Palm – (White) Loop 5 5

2 5V 5

3 – 4 10X 10

5 10X. Connecting to Thumb 4X 14

6 (XA)*4, 2X 10

7 (Skin color) Back-loop 10X

(White color) Front-loop (per need) *4, 2X, End yarn 10

8 – 19 (Skin Color) 10X 10

Body (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 8CH, reverse, at 2nd hole, 6X, W, 5X, V 16

2 V, 5X, 3V, 5X, 2V 22

3 X, V, 5X, 3(XV), 5X, 2(XV) 28

4 9X, A, M, A, 12X 24

5 (White) 7X, A, M, A, 8X, A 19

6 5X, A, M, A, 7X 15

7 6X, A, 7X 14

8 – 10 14X 14

11-22 (Skin Color) 14X 14

23 Combine both legs with 3CH in between 34

24-25 34X 34

26 (White) 6X, A, 15X, A, 9X 32

27 (6X, A)*4 28

28-37 28X 28

38 7X, connect to arm 10X, 14X, connect to arm, 10X, 7X 48

39 (XA)*16 32

40 (Skin Color), (2X, A)*8 24

41 12A 12

42-43 12X 12

Head (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 Loop with 6 stitches 6

2 6V 12

3 (X, V)*6 18

4 (2X, V)*6 24

5 (3X, V)*6 30

6 (4X, V)*6 36

7 (5X, V)*6 42

8 (6X, V)*6 48

9 (7X, V)*6 54

10 (8X, V)*6 60

11 (9X, V)*6 66

12-25 66X 66

26 (4XA)*6 30

27 (8X, A)*6 54

28 (7X, A)*6 48

29 (6X, A)*6 42

30 (5X, A)*6 36

31 (4X, A)*6 30

32 (3X, A)*6 24

33 (2X, A)*6 18

34 (X, A)*6 12 Placing eyes between 19-21

Ear x 2 (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 (Skin Color) Loop 5X 5

2 Left Ear (2T,2TV,T) , Right Ear (T,2TV,2T) 7 each Place ears

between 22-23

3

Shoes (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 Soles of Shoes (Navy Blue) 9CH, reverse, at 2nd

hole, 7X,W,6X,V

18

2 V,6X,3V,6X,2V 24

3 X,V,6X,3(XV),6X,2(XV) 30

4 Back-Post 30X (outsole of shoes )

Note: photos in this page are added by translator

to ease your understanding. Please ignore yarn

color that used in these photos

30

1 Shoes head (White color) 9X 9

2 (XA)*3 6

3 3A 3

Shoes head(toes) , re-start from left to right with

7X. This line with back facing out

7

1 (Back Loop) – turn, at 2nd hole, 6X on shoe head

(white area), 21X on shoe body, 1X back to shoe

head

28

2 5X,A,19X,A 26

3 5X,A,17X,A 24

4 5X,A,5X,5T,5X,A 22

5 5X (stitch on shoe head) 5

Insert a cardboard paper in the shoes, add

shoelace accordingly

outsole of shoes

Photo 1

(step 1-3)

Start from left to

right with 7x on top

of white area

4

Shirt (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 (White ) 21 CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 20X 20

2 (Front- loop) A,16X,A 18

3 (XV)*9 27

4 (XV)*9 36

5 (3XV)*9 45

6 6X,4CH, skip 10 holes, 13X, 4CH, skip 10 holes, 6X 33

7 – 13 33X 33

1 Sleeves, 16X 16

Left placket, from bottom up , 2X, 2CH, 3X, 2CH, 2X

Right placket, stitch one row of X, add buttons which

corresponding to left CH locations

1 Bowknot, 10CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 9X 9

2 – 9 9X 9

Bowknot’s knot at center, 5CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 4X 4

Combine both Bowknot and knot , then, place it at left

placket most upper part

Bib Pants 1 (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 Trousers leg, (Blue) Loop 20X 20

2 – 3 20X 20

Make two trousers legs

4 Combine both trousers legs, 40X 40

5 – 9 40X 40

10 (8T,TA)*4 36

1 Belt, 34CH, turn, at 5th hole, 30X. Sew at back of pants, Use

white yarn to sew pants lines. Add buttons at front of pants

T-Shirt (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 (Yellow) 24CH, make a circle, (7x,V)*3 27

2 (Front- Loop), (2X,V)*9 36

3 (3X,V)*9 45

4 (Pink), (14X,V)*3 48

5 7X,4CH, skip 10 holes, 14X, 4CH, skip 10 holes, 7X 36

6 – 14 36X 36 5

T-Shirt (continues) (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 Sleeves, (Pink), 16X 16

2 (Yellow), 16X 16

Left placket, from bottom up, 2X, (2CH, X) *3

Right placket, stitch one row of X, add buttons which

corresponding to left CH locations

Bib Jean Pants 2 (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 Trousers leg, (Blue) 21CH, make a circle, 21X 21

2 21X 21

3 Front-Loop, 21X 21

4 – 7 21X 21

8 Make two trousers legs, combine both legs, 42X 42

9 -15 42X, end yarn 42

16 Following in piece form, at front of pants, 15X 15

17 – 19 15X 15

20 A,11X,A 13

21 Adding buttons at both left & right end

Belt, 24CH, turn, at 5th hole, 20X 20

1 Pocket, 8CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 7X 7

2 – 3 7X 7

Sew pocket & Belts to pants accordingly. Use white yarn to

sew pants lines

Hairs (Hook 1.75mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 (Purple) 11CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 10X 10

2 – 9 3S, 8CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 10X 10

10 3S, 28CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 30X 30

11 – 27 10S, 21CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 30X 30

1- Iron hairs 2- use one yarn to stitch

across hairs 3- pull both ends of yarn

PooPoo, spiral type without cotton filled (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 (Pink) Loop 4X 4

2 3X, W 6

3 6V 12

4 – 5 12X 12

6 X,A*4 8

7 Front- Loop, 6X,W,X 10

8 10V 20

9 – 10 20X 20

11 (XA)*6, A 13

12 Front-Loop, 9X,W,3X 15

13 15V 30

14 – 15 30X 30

16 (3X,A)*6 24

17 (2X,A)*6 18

18 (X,A)*6 12

19 A*6 6

Hat (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 (Pink), Loop 7X 7

2 7V 14

3 (X, V)*7 21

4 (2X, V)*7 28

5 (3X, V)*7 35

6 (4X, V)*7 42

7 (5X, V)*7 49

8 (6X, V)*7 56

9 (7X, V)*7 63

10 – 16 63X 63

7

Hat – continue (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

Lip, in Piece Form

Go to cap front, center of round #16, pick 8 holes

(refer chart below)

1 2V, 4X, 2V, S 12

2 4V,4X,4V, (skip 1 hole at cap round#16) S 20

3 (Red), 20X, (skip 1 hole at cap round#16) S 20

4 (V,2X)*3,2X,(2X,V)*3, (skip 1 hole at cap round#16) S 26

5 26X, (skip 1 hole at cap round#16) S 26

6 (White), 26X, (skip 1 hole at cap round#16) S 26

Hat – continue (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 Left Wing, Loop 7X 7

2 5CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 4X, S to round#1, 2nd hole 4

3 3S(on round#2) , 3CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 5X, S to

round #1, 3rd hole

5

4 3S(on round#3) , 4CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 6X, S to

round #1, 4th hole

6

1 Right Wing, Loop 7X 7

2 7CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 6X, S to round#1, 2nd hole 6

3 4S(on round#2) , 2CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 5X, S to

round #1, 3rd hole

5

4 3S(on round#3) , 2CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 4X, S to

round #1, 4th hole

4

make 1 & ½ circle for both frames

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Master Class-st “Brownie Hariton”

The height of the house is 33 cm.

Foot length – 10 cm.

Khariton is knitted in one solid figure, only the eyelids, nose and ears are sewn.

Hat, shirt, vest – removable parts, knit separately.

The blast furnace is completely, as well as all its removable parts, crocheted 1.6 mm, outside

depending on the thickness of the yarn!

Abbreviations:

Sc – single crochet,

inc – increase,

Dec – decrease

Hdc – half crochet

ОІNC – back-turn row;

CH – lift loop.

Necessary materials:

1. Alize Diva Yarn:

– Beige (for the body);

– White (for socks and bags);

– Blue (for pants).

2. Yarn Art Tulip Yarn:

– Red (for a shirt).

3. Yarn sock wool:

– beige (for bast shoes);

– brown (for hat and vest).

4. Felting wool is white (for styling hair, beard and eyebrows).

5. Needle for felting.

6. Eyes screw with caps, blue – 2 pcs.

7. Wooden beads (for decorating hats, bast shoes, bags and belts).

8. Large blue beads (for decorating hats and belts).

9. Foamiran butterflies (for decorating hats and brooms).

10. Sewed symbols “Horseshoe”, “Hand” (for decorating hats and vests).

11. Hook 1.6 mm.

12. Scissors, sewing needle, pliers.

13. Thick cardboard (for the sole of the bast shoes).

14. Clay Moment.

15. Filler (holofiber, synthetic winterizer).

16. Copper wire is thick and thin (for arms, neck, broom).

17. Artificial blue flowers – 3 pcs. (to decorate the vest).

18. Bast (for a broom).

19. Decorative button-butterfly (for bag).

Getting to work!

Eyelids (4pcs)

We dial 11 CH, we turn the work, 10 SC.

We knit 4 such segments.

Nose

6 SC into magic ring;

6 inc,

12 SC × 2 times.

Leave a long thread for sewing on the nose.

Ears (2pcs)

6 SC into magic ring;

We turn the work and do 6 inc.

Leave a long thread for sewing.

Hands.

First we knit the fingers.

Big:

8 SC into magic ring

8 SC × 4 rows.

Index, middle, nameless and pinky fit the same way –

6 SC into magic ring

6 SC × 5 rows.

On the little finger we do not cut the thread, but continue knitting:

3 SC on the little finger, 3 SC on the nameless, 3 SC on the middle and 6 SC on the index. Then 3

SC on average, 3 SC on the nameless and 3 SC on the little finger (24);

24 SC;

8 SC, 4 SC simultaneously on the thumb and palm, 12 SC (for the right hand). For

the left fits the other way round – 12 SC, 4 SC simultaneously on the thumb and palm, 8 SC

(24);

8 SC, 4 SC on the thumb, 12 SC (for the right hand), for the left – 12 SC, 4 SC on

thumb, 8 SC (24);

24 SC;

(2 SC, dec) × 6 times (18);

18 SC;

(2 SC, dec) × 4 times, 2 SC (14);

Fill the palm with filler.

14 SC × 25 rows.

We knit the left hand in the same way, given the changes in joining the thumb!

Legs.

We draw a chain of 18 CH, in the 2nd from the hook we knit a loop 2 SC (inc), then we knit 15 SC,

5 SC in the last CH. Next, we knit in a circle, on the opposite side of the chain 15 SC, 2

SC in the last loop (39). This was the first lap.

2nd circle: 2 inc, 15 SC, 5inc, 15 SC, 2 inc (48)

3rd circle inc, 1 SC) × 2 times, 15 SC, (inc, 1 SC) × 5 times, 15 SC, (inc, 1 SC) × 2 times (57)

4th circle: (inc, 2 SC) × 2 times, 15 SC, (inc, 2 SC) × 5 times, 15 SC, (inc, 2 SC) × 2 times (66)

5th circle: (inc, 3 SC) × 2 times, 15 SC, (inc, 3 SC) × 5 times, 15 SC, (inc, 3 SC) × 2 times (75)

So we formed the sole of the bast.

Cut out the insole from the cardboard according to the size of the resulting sole and glue it on the wrong side

side of knitting.

Next, set the marker (I use a small length of thread of a different color) and continue

Knit in a circle 75 SC exactly 5 rows. We fix the thread and cut it.

Now we will be engaged in the formation of the front of the bast.

We find the center (middle) in the front of the bast shoe and select exactly 12 loops in this part.

We attach the thread and knit ОІNC.

12 SC × 6 rows.

The result was a “tongue”.

We attach the sides of the “tongue” to the sides of the bast shoes and sew them together.

Our bast shoes are ready!

Next, continue knitting with a white thread. It will be a brownie sock.

We attach the thread to the rear semi-loops of the “tongue”, leave the front ones for decorative

bindings of bast shoes. We have exactly 12 loops there, but since the AlizeDiva thread is slightly thinner than the sock yarn,

at the very beginning of knitting a sock, we need to make a few increases. I am doing 4 increases.

We attach the thread and knit: inc, 3 SC, inc, 3 SC, inc, 2 SC, inc.

A total of 16 loops.

Next, we will knit ОІNC, just as we knitted the tongue of bast shoes.

16 SC × 10 rows.

Now, we apply the side of the sock with the working thread to the side of the bast.

We count 8 loops on the side of the bast shoe from its front, and from the 9th loop, for the back half loops,

knit in a circle.

On the other hand, we also apply our white segment, leave 8 loops not knitted

and finish knitting with 16 loops on the side of the sock.

So we got a vicious circle of 48 SC.

The slots formed from the non-knit loops of the slit we sew back to tone in tone

half loops of bast shoes, as shown in the photo, front leave for decorative trim!

Tightly stuff the bast shoe, trying to evenly distribute the filler.

We make the binding of the bast shoes in a circle, for the half loops left by the usual SL-ST.

We continue to knit a sock.

We make evenly 10 decreases.

(Dec, 3 SC) × 9 times, dec, 1 SC (38)

38 SC × 15 rows.

We tie to the middle of the back of the leg and attach the blue thread.

We do not cut the white thread yet.

For the back half loops we knit the first row of pants.

İnc, 37 SC (39)

Next, we knit for both half loops.

1 SC, inc, 37 SC (40)

2 SC, inc, 37 SC (41)

3 SC, inc, 37 SC (42)

4 SC, inc, 37 SC (43)

4 SC, 2inc, 37 SC (45)

45 SC × 15 rows.

We fix the thread, cut it off.

We return to the white thread.

For the left front half loops, we will knit a sock harness.

I tie with the usual SL-ST.

38 SL-ST.

And so the left leg of the brownie is ready.

We knit the right leg in the same way, but at the end of knitting we do not cut the thread.

We make laces for bast shoes from the same beige wool mixture.

We cut two long identical lengths of thread, about 25-30 cm long.

We decorate both ends of each thread with wooden beads and fix them with knots.

Then we fix the center of each thread to the center of the back of the bast shoe, wrap it in a few turns

around the leg (on a white toe) and tie to 2 knots.

We put both legs in front of us.

Find the middle on the inside of both legs and mark them. Here we will have

connection of legs.

If there are not enough loops to the middle you have planned, then tie them, and vice versa, if

need to dissolve a few, then dissolve.

So, we begin joining the legs.

From the right foot we knit 3 CH, then 45 SC along the left foot, 3 inc we do on one side of the chain of

3 CH, then we knit 45 SC on the right leg and also 3 inc on the second side of the chain of 3 CH

(102)

Knit in a circle 102 SC × 5 rows

(8 SC, dec) × 10 times, 2 SC (92)

(7 SC, dec) × 10 times, 2 SC (82)

(6 SC, dec) × 10 times, 2 SC (72)

72 SC × 5 rows.

Tightly stuff the legs with filler.

We attach the beige thread and we knit 72 SC for the back wall.

Go back to the blue. Behind the front wall we make panties strapping. We knit 72 SL-ST. Blue thread

fasten and trim.

Beige thread continues to knit the body.

72 SC × 19 rows.

We fill the body with filler.

Next, we will tie our hands.

16 SC, 4 SC simultaneously on the left hand and body, 30 SC, 4 SC simultaneously on the right hand and

body, 18 SC (72);

16 SC, 10 SC on the left hand, 30 SC, 10 SC on the right hand, 18 SC (84);

84 SC × 3 rows;

At this stage, you must insert the thick copper wire into the hands of the brownie.

To do this, we spread both hands of the brownie in different directions and measure their total length.

Cut the wire to the desired length and insert into both hands. One end in one hand, the other in

another, and evenly distribute.

If necessary, add filler and continue knitting:

(5 SC, dec) × 12 times (72);

(4 SC, dec) × 12 times (60);

(4 SC, dec) × 10 times (50);

(3 SC, dec) × 10 times (40);

(3 SC, dec) × 8 times (32);

(2 SC, dec) × 8 times (24);

24 SC × 7 rows (neck).

We will continue to knit the house-head after we knit and put on a shirt!

Shirt.

We dial 42 CH (2 CH)

We turn the work. With the 3rd from the hook of the loop we knit 40 HDC, 1 CH, turn the work;

(2 SC, inc) × 13 times, 1 SC, 1 CH, turn (53);

(3 SC, inc) × 13 times, 1 SC, 1 CH, turn (66);

11 SC, 11 CH, 11 SC skip, 22 SC, 11 CH, 11 SC skip, 11 SC, 1 CH, turn (66);

66 SC × 3 OİNC.

Next, knit in a circle HDC.

66 HDC × 13 rows;

(2 HDC, inc) × 22 times (88);

(3 HDC, inc) × 22 times (110);

110 HDC × 4 rows;

Crawling step.

Next, we knit the sleeves. We attach the thread to the center of the inner side of the sleeve and type in

circle 24 HDC;

24 HDC × 15 rows;

Crawling step.

With a gait step, we also tie the neck and neckline of the front of the shirt.

With a small piece of white thread we do the lacing on the chest of the brownie.

Our shirt is ready!

Dress her up and knit her head to Hariton.

(3 SC, inc) × 6 times (30);

(4 SC, inc) × 6 times (36);

(5 SC, inc) × 6 times (42);

(6SC, inc) × 6 times (48);

(7SC, inc) × 6 times (54);

(8 SC, inc) × 6 times (60);

(9 SC, inc) × 6 times (66);

(10 SC, inc) × 6 times (72);

(11 SC, inc) × 6 times (78);

(12 SC, inc) × 6 times (84);

(13 SC, inc) × 6 times (90);

(14 SC, inc) × 6 times (96);

(15 SC, inc) × 6 times (102);

102 SC × 10 rows;

38SC, 3 CH, 3 SC skip, 10 SC, 3 CH, 3 SC skip, 48 SC (102);

102 SC × 10 rows.

We insert eyes. Sew eyelids, nose (add a little filler to the nose), ears. In the neck for

stability insert wire and add filler.

Gradually fill our heads.

We continue knitting:

(15 SC, dec) × 6 times;

(14 SC, dec) × 6 times;

(13 SC, dec) × 6 times;

(12 SC, dec) × 6 times;

(11 SC, dec) × 6 times;

(10SC, dec) × 6 times;

(9 SC, dec) × 6 times;

(8 SC, dec) × 6 times;

(7 SC, dec) × 6 times;

(6 SC, un) × 6 times;

(5 SC, dec) × 6 times;

(4 SC, dec) × 6 times;

(3 SC, dec) × 6 times;

(2 SC, dec) × 6 times;

(1 SC, dec) × 6 times;

6 dec.

We fix the thread, cut it and hide it.

Now we’ll take care of hair, beard and eyebrow styling based on photos.

Hat.

6 SC into magic ring;

6 inc (12);

(1 SC, inc) × 6 times (18);

(2 SC, inc) × 6 times (24);

(3 SC, inc) × 6 times (30);

(4 SC, inc) × 6 times (36);

(5 SC, inc) × 6 times (42);

(6 SC, inc) × 6 times (48);

(7 SC, inc) × 6 times (54);

(8 SC, inc) × 6 times (60);

(9 SC, inc) × 6 times (66);

For the rear half loops we knit 66 SC;

66 SC × 4 rows;

(10 SC, inc) × 6 times (72);

(11 SC, inc) × 6 times (78);

(12 SC, inc) × 6 times (84);

(13 SC, inc) × 6 times (90);

(14 SC, inc) × 6 times (96);

Crawling step.

The hat is ready and you can do its decoration!

Sew foamiran butterflies, wooden beads, beads and a horseshoe (see photo). All

sew the details with the same thread that knitted the hat!

Vest.

Our vest will be knitted by OİNC, so at the beginning of each row you will need to make loops

lift (CH), 2 CH if the row fits HDC, and 1 CH if we knit SC!

We dial 26 CH (2 CH);

With the 3rd from the hook, we knit 24 HDC;

(3 HDC, inc) × 5 times, 4 HDC (29);

(4 HDC, inc) × 5 times, 4 HDC (34);

(5 HDC, inc) × 5 times, 4 HDC (39);

13CH, 12 loop through, 13 SC, 13 CH, 12 loops through, 1 SC (39);

39 HDC;

39 SC;

39 HDC;

39 SC;

39 HDC;

39 SC;

39 HDC;

39 SC;

39 HDC.

We fix the thread, cut it off.

We attach the thread to the beginning of the left shelf, make 2 CH, and begin to tie the HDC vest.

We tie the left shelf, the bottom of the back, go up the right shelf.

Do not tie neckline!

We tied the loops of the right shelf, turn the knitting, do 2 CH, and continue to tie

in the opposite direction. We tie the loops of the left shelf, once again we turn the work

make 2 CH, and knit HDC again to the end of the right shelf.

Thus, we made 3 semicircles of ОІNC strapping, thereby extending the vest a little more and

formed it in front (shelves, left and right).

We fix the thread, cut it and hide it.

Our vest is ready!

We pin the flowers to the right shelf of the vest and a little lower we sew the amulet “Hand”.

Belt.

Using beige wool mixture, we draw a chain of 55 CH.

Leave a long tail at the very beginning of the loop set. On this thread we will string

beads and beads!

Scored a chain, also leave a long tail, cut the thread.

We attach the brown wool mixture (also do not forget to leave long on both sides

threads) and knit 55 SC. We cut the thread.

We attach the white thread and knit 55 SC (do not forget to leave long tails on both

parties).

The belt is ready!

On the left ponytails we string wooden beads and beads. At the ends of the threads we do

thick nodules so that the beads do not fall.

A bag.

Our bag will be knitted by OİNC, so at the beginning of each row we make 1 CH!

We collect a chain of 16 CH (1 CH).

15 SC × 10 rows;

15 SC we knit for the back walls;

15 SC we knit for the front walls;

15 SC × 10 rows.

The resulting rectangle is bent in half (the place where we knitted for the front and rear

walls should be inside).

Beige wool blend the sides of the SC bag, as shown in the photo.

Turn out the bag.

Sew on the butterfly button.

With beige wool mixture, we collect a chain of 60 CH.

The bag belt turned out.

Long threads should remain on both sides of the chain, for which you must carefully

attach the belt to the bag.

We do not cut the threads, string on each of them 1 wooden bead and fix them

knots.

Then cut off 7 small pieces of beige wool mixture and tie them evenly to the bottom

bags on the front side (where there were unknotted half loops left).

Our bag is ready!

Broom.

The bast is a kind of artificial straw.

Choose the required number of “straws” of the same length.

Our broom will turn out to be 15 cm high, so the length of each “straw” should be

about 30 cm

The more you collect, the better. It should get a good bunch.

We bend it in half and wrap it with thin wire just above the middle. Stab on

wire foamiran butterfly, firmly fasten the end of the wire and hide it.

The broom is ready!

Here we have such a wonderful Hariton!

For each of you, he will certainly bring good luck and prosperity, because the things done by his

hands endowed with magic!

author Olga Zimina

Creative Studio Olga Zimina

January 2020

ABBREVATİONS

CH – chain

SC – single crochet

SL-ST SLİP STİTCH

İNC increase

Dec decrease

Materials:

1. Yarn Jeans 160 / 50g beige, brown, white,

black and turquoise (or any other) colors.

Can be replaced with acrylic yarn of similar thickness.

2. Eyes on 6mm safety mount

3. For hearts: a little pink plush yarn

colors, for a little little pink jeans yarn

colors.

4. Filler for toys

5. Hook No. 1.75 or 2

All parts fit in a spiral. We do not do offset loops,

unless indicated in the description.

The toy is on its own.

Fill the details as you knit.

When using the recommended materials, you will knit

16 cm toy

My groups on social networks:

Creative Studio Olga Zimina

January 2020

Head:

1.6 sc into magic ring

2. 6İNC (12)

3. (sc, İNC) * 6 (18)

4. (2sc, İNC) * 6 (24)

5. (3sc, İNC) * 6 (30)

6. (4sc, İNC) * 6 (36)

7. (5sc, İNC) * 6 (42)

8.-14. 42sc (7 rows) from the 14th row we knit hair color (I have

brown)

Eyes inserted between 11 and 12 rows, the distance between

eyes of 5 loops.

15. (DEC, 5sc) * 6 (36) Next, we knit on the back

16. (DEC, 4sc) * 6 (30)

17. (DEC, 3sc) * 6 (24)

18. (DEC, 2sc) * 6 (18)

19. (DEC, sc) * 6 (12)

20.6DEC

For the left p / p we knit hair:

Dial 25 ch and knit 24 sl-st; retreat 3 p / p and for

The 4th p / p again we knit 25 ch and 24sl-st. Thus knit on

the whole head.

Ears:

6sc into magic ring, sl-st Sew ears to the head.

Legs (2pcs):

1.Set the chain of 5ch, from the second loop from the hook: 3sc, 4sc in

last loop, on the other side 2sc, İNC

2.İNC, 2sc, 4İNC, 3sc, İNC (17)

3.sc, İNC, 3sc, 6İNC, 5sc, İNC (25)

4.2sc, İNC, 3sc, (sc, İNC) * 6.7sc (32)

5. Behind the back of the hinge: 32sc

6.-7. 32sc

9.11sc, 6DEC, 9sc (26)

10.7sc, 6DEC, 7sc (20) Change the thread color

11.8sc, 2DEC, 8sc (18)

12.8sc, DEC of 3sc, 7sc (16)

13.16sc Fill the shoe.

14.-18. 16sc (we knit in stripes, alternating black (or gray) and

white colors)

19.-25. White: 16sc (7 rows)

We fill the legs tight enough, in the middle of the foot you can

drag in the middle for greater stability.

Tie the soles of the shoes with a crawfish step.

Having connected the second leg, we do not cut the thread, but continue to knit

torso.

We do 5ch and join the second leg.

Torso:

1.164sc along the leg, 5sc along the chain of ch, 16sc along the second leg,

5sc in chain (42)

2.-4. 42sc

5. (12sc, DEC) * 3 (39)

6. 39sc

7. (11sc, DEC) * 3 (36)

8. (10sc, DEC) * 3 (33)

9. (9sc, DEC) * 3 (30)

10. 30sc Change the thread to the color of the dress and continue to knit:

11. (8sc, DEC) * 3 (27)

12.27sc

13. Behind the rear p / p: 27sc

14.-17. 27sc (4 rows)

18. (7sc, DEC) * 3 (24)

19. (2sc, DEC) * 6 (18) Fill

20. (sc, DEC) * 6 (12) Change the thread to body:

21.-23. 12sc (neck) (we knit the 21st row behind the back half-back)

24. 6DEC

Fill the neck very tight with a pencil or stick

for sushi.

Dress skirt:

1.for left p / p we knit 27 İNC from hdc (54)

2.-8. 54 hdc (7 rows)

9. behind the front p / p: (3ch, sc) * 54

White thread for the items left: (5ch, sc) * 54

We knit a collar with a white thread for the items left in the 21st row:

3ch, dc to the same loop, İNC from dc, 2hdc, sc, 2İNC, sc, 2hdc, 2İNC

from dc. Embroider an imitation fastener with the same thread.

Pens (2pcs):

1. start with flesh color: 6sc into magic ring

2. (İNC, 2sc) * 2 (8)

3.-6. 8sc Change the color to the color of the dress:

7.8sc

8.-9. behind the rear p / p: 8sc

10.-19. 8sc (10 rows) Do not fill!

20. For both sides of knitting: 4sc

For the items left in the 8th row with a white thread: (5ch, sc) * in a circle

For dresses left in the 9th row in the color of the dress: (3ch, sc) * in a circle

Sew handles to the body. Fix the head with a long needle

and sew to the body.

Heart:

1.6c into magic ring

2. 6İNC (12)

3. (sc, İNC) * 6 (18)

4. (2sc, İNC) * 6 (24)

5. 24sc Tie two parts, do not cut the thread from the second part,

continue to knit.

6. join the second part and knit 24 sc on it,

24sc for the first part (48) (here is the beginning of the row)

7. (DEC, 22sc) * 2 (46)

8. DEC, 19sc, 2DEC, 19sc (42)

9.42sc

10. (5sc, DEC) * 6 (36)

11. (4sc, DEC) * 6 (30)

12. (8sc, DEC) * 3 (27)

13. (7sc, DEC) * 3 (24)

14. (2sc, DEC) * 6 (18)

15. (sc, DEC) * 6 (12)

16.12sc Fill the heart

17.6DEC

18. 3DEC

Valentine is ready!

Creative Studio Olga Zimina

3January 2020

• Sock weight yarn in dark green, light green,

white, red, light peach, brown

• Black yarn or embroidery thread

• 2.5mm crochet hook

• A pair of 8mm black safety eyes

• One 6mm red round button

• Polyester fiberfill for stuffing

• Yarn needle

• Sewing needle

• Sewing thread in red

• Scissors

• Stitch markers

• Pearl headed pins

Terminology [US]

magic ring

ch (chain)

st (stitch)

sc (single crochet)

hdc (half double crochet)

dc (double crochet)

inc (increase)

dec (decrease)

FLO (front loop only)

sl st (slip stitch)

SIZE: 27 cm [without her hat] when made

with the indicated yarn

DIFFICULTY: Intermediate

Special Notes

Color Change

This pattern requires color changes to make stripes.

For a seamless color change, follow these steps:

While working on the last stitch of the round, just

before you make the color change, make a single

crochet stitch as usual by inserting hook in the stitch

and pull up a loop. Now instead of pulling the same

yarn through the two remaining loops on your hook,

complete the stitch by pulling the new color through

the loops. In the first stitch of the next round, instead

of making a single crochet stitch, slip stitch with the

new color. Now make single crochet stitches in each

of the remaining stitches of the round. Work on the

next round as usual.

Instructions

BOOT & LEG [make 2]

Start with dark green yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. [6]

Rnd 2-3: sc around. [6]

Rnd 4: inc X 6. [12]

Rnd 5: sc around. [12]

Rnd 6: (inc, sc 2) X 4. [16]

Rnd 7: sc around. [16]

Rnd 8: (dec, sc 2) X 4. [12]

Rnd 9-10: sc around. [12]

ch 1, turn. Next, we will work on the heel.

Heel

Row 1-3: sc 7, ch 1, turn. [7]

Row 4: sc 7. Mark the last stitch worked. [7]

From here on, we go back to working in the round.

Rnd 11: Working along the row end, sc 4; sc 5 on

the front of the shoe, sc 4 along the other row end

[Pic 1-4]. [13]

Rnd 12: Fold the shoe as shown in Pic 5. Starting

from the marked st [Pic 6], sc in all 13 st. [13]

Rnd 13: sc around. [13] The shoe should now look

like the sample shown in Pic 7.

Rnd 14: dec, sc 11. [12]

Join red yarn.

Rnd 15: sc around. [12]

Sew the gap at the heel closed.

Rnd 16-29: sc around. [12]

Stuff as you go.

Rnd 30: (dec, sc 4) X 2. [10]

Rnd 31-45: sc around. [10]

Starting from the last stitch worked, count counterclockwise and mark the 5th stitch.

Fasten off. Stuff leg lightly, leaving the last 4-5

rounds unstuffed.

Make the second leg and stuff but do not fasten

off. We will continue working on this leg and join it

with the other leg in the next round.

BODY

Rnd 1: ch 4; starting from the marked st of the first

leg [Pic 8], sc 10, sc in the next 4 ch [Pic 9], sc in all

10 st of the second leg [Pic 10]. [24 st + 4 ch]

Rnd 2: sc in the loops of the next 4 ch [Pic 11], sc in

the remaining 24 st. [28]

Rnd 3-5: sc around. [28]

Join dark green yarn.

Rnd 6-7: sc around. [28]

Join light green yarn.

Rnd 8: sc around. [28]

Rnd 9: (sc 5, dec) X 4. [24]

Switch to dark green yarn.

Rnd 10-11: sc around. [24]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 12-13: sc around. [24]

Switch to dark green yarn, fasten off light green

yarn.

Rnd 14: sc around. [24]

Rnd 15: (sc 4, dec) X 4. [20]

Rnd 16: (sc 3, dec) X 4. [16]

Stuff the body. While stuffing, bend the legs

forward at the point where the legs and the body

meet so no stuffing passes through the top portion

of the legs [Pic 12]. This is to ensure that the upper

legs remain floppy, which will make it possible for

the doll to sit.

Join light peach yarn, fasten off dark green yarn.

Rnd 17: (sc 2, dec) X 4. [12]

Rnd 18: (sc, dec) X 4. [8]

Rnd 19-25: sc around. [8]

Stuff the neck firmly. It is very important to stuff

the neck as firmly as possible at this point so it can

support the weight of the head.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Using your

yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the front

loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight, closing

off the neck. Weave in the yarn end.

BOOT CUFF [make 2]

With white yarn, ch 17.

Row 1: Starting from the 4th ch from the hook, dc in

all 14 ch. [14]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Wrap the

cuff around Rnd 15 of the leg and sew the row ends

together. Secure to the leg with a few tacks.

ARM [make 2]

Start with light peach yarn.

Rnd 1: 7 sc in a magic ring. [7]

Rnd 2-4: sc around. [7]

Join light green yarn; fasten off light peach yarn.

Rnd 5-22: sc around. [7]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff

the arms.

Press the top of the arm flat and sew it closed. Pin

arms on Rnd 15 of the body and sew them in place.

SKIRT

Ch 28 with light green yarn. sl st in the first ch to make

a ring. [Note: Leave a long tail at the beginning of the

chain to use for sewing the skirt onto the body later.]

Rnd 1: ch 1, hdc around. [28]

Work in continuous spirals from the next round

onwards.

Rnd 2: sc inc X 28. [56]

Rnd 3: (sc 6, inc) X 8. [64]

Rnd 4-8: sc around. [64]

Rnd 9: (sc 6, dec) X 8. [56]

Rnd 10: (sl st in the next st, ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch

from the hook, sc in the next st) X 28.

Fasten off. Weave in the yarn ends.

Slip the skirt from the top of the body and position it

around Rnd 6. Hold it in place with pearl headed pins

and sew in place.

HEAD

Work with light peach yarn.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a magic ring. [8]

Rnd 2: inc X 8. [16]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) X 8. [24]

Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) X 8. [32]

Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) X 8. [40]

Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) X 8. [48]

Rnd 7-17: sc around. [48]

Rnd 18: (sc 4, dec) X 8. [40]

Rnd 19: (sc 3, dec) X 8. [32]

Rnd 20: (sc 2, dec) X 8. [24]

Insert 8mm eyes between Rnd 13 & 14, 7 stitches apart.

Rnd 21: dec X 12. [12]

Stuff head, leaving some space in the center for the

neck that will be inserted later.

Rnd 22: (sc 4, dec) X 2. [10]

Fasten off. Weave in the yarn end.

Shape face: Thread a yarn needle with light peach

yarn. Insert needle from the opening at the base of

the head, bring it out from Point A next to the eye [Pic

13]. Push the needle back in from Point B and out from

Point C close to the next eye [Pic 14]. Push it in from

Point D, bringing it out from Point A again [Pic 15].

Gently squish the eyes together with your fingers and

carefully pull the yarn to bring the eyes closer. While

holding this shape, push the needle back in from Point

B and out from Point C [Pic 16]. Push it in from Point

D, and bring it out from the opening at the base of

the head [Pic 17]. Gently pull both the yarn ends and

tie them together to hold the shape [Pic 18]. Clip off

excess yarn and push the yarn ends inside the head.

Embroider eye details: With white yarn, sew a

crescent shape around the outer edge of the eyes [Pic

19-20]. With black yarn or embroidery thread, sew

eyelashes [Pic 21-23]

WIG

Work with brown yarn.

Rnd 1-15: Follow instructions for Head.

Fasten off leaving a very long tail. We will use this

tail to embroider bangs on the forehead.

HAIR

Slip the wig on the

head; make sure the

yarn tail is positioned

above the left eye.

Using pearl headed

pins, mark the area on

the forehead where

the bangs will be

embroidered as shown

in Pic 24. Weave the

yarn tail around these

pins to create a zigzag

outline for the bangs

that will cover the

entire right side of the forehead [Pic 25]. Now we

will start embroidering hair, one cluster at a time.

With your yarn needle, make a stitch on the

hairpiece at the end of the zigzag outline [Pic 26].

Do not take out the pins yet; we will need them

to hold the outline. Next, make another stitch

on the pointed end of the outline; make sure the

needle goes beneath the yarn that serves as your

outline and through one stitch on the head [Pic

27]. Make another stitch at exactly the same spot,

using the same technique, to hold the pointed

end of the outline in place. Sew your next stitch

on the hairpiece [Pic 28]. Continue embroidering

slanted lines, starting at the pointed end of the

zigzag and ending at the edge of the hairpiece until

the outline for the first bang is covered [Pic 29-30].

Continue until you cover the entire right side of the

forehead [Pic 31-33]. Similarly, create an outline

with pearl headed pins on the left side of the

forehead and embroider the bangs [Pic 34]. Secure

the wig with a few tacks at the back of the head.

BRAID [make 2]

Cut eight 15-inch long stands of brown yarn, fold

them in half. Take another strand of brown yarn,

equal in length to the other stands, wrap it around

the fold line and use it to tie the other strands

together [Pic 35]. Divide the strands into three

equal sections and braid them [Pic 36-37]. Tie off

the end and clip off excess yarn. Thread a yarn

needle with brown yarn and sew the braids on the

head [Pic 38].

JOIN HEAD TO BODY

Note: This head-body joining technique ensures

that the head of your amigurumi is movable.

Thread a yarn needle with brown yarn and insert

the needle from the top of the head and out

from the neck opening. Now insert your needle

through the base of the neck [between Rnd 18 &

19 of the body], back through the neck opening

on the head, bringing it out again from the top of

the head. Slide the head down the two strands of

yarn until it sits perfectly on the neck. Knot the

yarn ends together a few times to secure. Clip off

excess yarn and carefully push remaining yarn

back into the head. See Pic 39 for reference.

CAPELET

Ch 31 with white yarn.

Row 1: Starting from the 6th ch from the hook, sc

6, 3 sc in the next ch, sc 12, 3 sc in the next ch, sc

6, ch 1, turn. [30]

Join light green yarn.

Row 2: sc 6, inc, sc, inc, sc 12, inc, sc, inc, sc 6, ch

1, turn. [34]

Switch to white yarn, fasten off light green yarn.

Row 3: sc across, turn. [34]

Row 4: ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook, sc in

the next st, (sl st in the next st, ch 3, sl st in the 3rd

ch from the hook, sc in the next st) X 16.

Fasten off. Weave in the yarn ends.

Sew a 6mm red button on Row 1 of the capelet

[see Pic 40 for placement]. Wrap it around the

shoulders and slip the button through the 5-ch

button-hole.

HAT

Start with white yarn.

Ribbed band

Row 1: Ch 4. Starting from the second ch from the

hook, sc 3, ch 1, turn. [3]

Row 2-46: FLO sc 3, ch 1, turn. [3]

Row 47: FLO sc 3, ch 1. [3]

Now we will work along the row end to even out

the edges.

Row 48: sc along the row end, making 1 sc per row

[Pic 41]. [46]

Next, we will join the band and work in continuous

spirals.

Join light green yarn.

Rnd 1: sc in the first sc to join [Pic 42]. Continue

working sc in the remaining 45 st. [46]

Rnd 2: sc around. [46]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 3: (sc 21, dec) X 2. [44]

Rnd 4: (sc 20, dec) X 2. [42]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 5: (sc 5, dec) X 6. [36]

Rnd 6: sc around. [36]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 7: (sc 4, dec) X 6. [30]

Rnd 8: (sc 3, dec) X 6. [24]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 9: (sc, dec) X 8. [16]

Rnd 10: sc around. [16]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 11-12: sc around. [16]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 13-14: sc around. [16]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 15: (sc 6, dec) X 2. [14]

Rnd 16: sc around. [14]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 17-18: sc around. [14]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 19-20: sc around. [14]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 21: (sc 5, dec) X 2. [12]

Rnd 22: sc around. [12]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 23-24: sc around. [12]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 25-26: sc around. [12]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 27: (sc 4, dec) X 2. [10]

Rnd 28: sc around. [10]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 29-30: sc around. [10]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 31-32: sc around. [10]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 33: (sc 3, dec) X 2. [8]

Rnd 34: sc around. [8]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 35-36: sc around. [8]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 37-38: sc around. [8]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 39: (sc 2, dec) X 2. [6]

Rnd 40: sc around. [6]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 41-42: sc around. [6]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 43-44: sc around. [6]

Switch to light green yarn; fasten off white yarn.

Rnd 45: inc X 6. [12]

Rnd 46: (sc, inc) X 6. [18]

Rnd 47: (sc 2, inc) X 6. [24]

Rnd 48-49: sc around. [24]

Rnd 50: (sc 2, dec) X 6. [18]

Rnd 51: (sc, dec) X 6. [12]

Stuff only the ‘pom pom’, not the stem of the hat.

Rnd 52: dec X 6. [6]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Using

your yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the

front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight,

closing off the gap. Weave in the yarn ends.

Sew together Row 1 and Row 47 of the ribbed

band and weave in the yarn end. Place the hat

on the head and shape the stem of the hat as per

your liking.

Congratulations!

Your Trixie Jollybum is now ready.