ABBREVIATION used in the template: 

SC ——– single crochet 

inc ——— incraise / 2SC in 1 loop 

INC3 ——– double incraise / 3SC in 1 loop 

DEC3 ——— double decrease / 3SC knit 1 loop 

DEC ——— decrease 

DC ——– double crochet 

INC-DC —— double crochet incraise 

CH———–chain 

* ——- Repeat the instructions in parentheses the specified number of times 

Stitch marker — Mark the beginning of the row 

MATERIALS 

 Kartopu thread KOD: K1219 (THREAD IS NOT PRODUCED) – for a 2.5 mm crochet hook (instead of Kartopu thread you can use LANOSO ALARA COTTON KOD: C: 937-P: 144 or another thread. The hook should be thinner than indicated on (See yarn instructions.) 

• Threads Gazzal baby coton white – CODE: 3432 (for diapers) – hook 2.0 mm. 

• Red Gazzal baby coton – CODE: 3439 (for clothes) (For bow and blouse, you can use another thread, equivalent to gazzal, which will be thinner than the thread for the body). 

• 12 mm safety eyes in brown color. 

 Filler 

• Wire (for the doll frame) 

• Adhesive plaster (to cover the ends of the wire) 

 Tessa (finished hair) 

• Ready-made eyelashes for the doll and black sewing thread for sewing. 

• Pink thread for lip embroidery. 

• Brown thread for eyebrow embroidery (the thread used for the doll is alize diva) 

DOLL’S GROWTH 27-30 CM. DOLL SIZE MAY BE REFERRED FROM THE ORIGINAL DEPENDING ON THE THREAD AND DENSITY. 

HANDS 

1) Into magic ring 6SC 

2) 6INC = 12SC 

3) 4 * (INC, 2SC) = 16SC 

4-6) 16SC (3 rows) 

7) 1 Popcorn, 15SC 

8) 16SC 

9) over the finger (DEC, 6SC) * 2 = 14SC 

10-24) 14SC, 1 DC finish. (15 rows) (place wire in it and stuff with fiber.) 

At the end of the second hand, knit another 4SC, 1DC and cut off the thread. The pollen on the hand should be inside, on the first hand we do not tie 4SC. 

FOOT (LEFT FOOT) 

1) Into magic ring 6SC 

2) SC, INC (7SC in total) Tighten the loop and knit a chain of 7 CH, skip 1 CH and start at 2 from the hook (along the 6SC chain, 7SC on the finger, 6SC on the chain) = 19SC 

3-7) 19SC (5 rows) 

8) We knit the heel. 

1SC turn, 9SC turn, 8SC turn, 7SC turn, 6SC turn, 5SC turn, 4SC. At the beginning of each row, we skip 1 stitch, due to this, a decrease will be obtained. 

9) We tie the foot in a circle. When you get to the front knit 7DC = 19SC 

Foot harness: 3SC, DEC, 7DC, DEC, 3SC (decrease should be in the corners) 

Set a stitch marker. 

10-20) 19SC (11 rows) 

21) For the knee, we knit 4 additions in the front, if necessary, knit SC to these loops; (Knee: 11SC, 4INC, 4SC = 23SC) 

22) To form the knee, we knit 4 decreases. (Knee: 4DEC, 15SC = 19SC) 

23) 19SC 

24) To tie a beautiful leg, in the 22nd row, knit 4 presses from behind, if required, knit SC to these loops. (Explanation: 4INC, 15SC = 23SC) 

25-31) 23SC (7 rows) 

32) 1DC cut and hide the thread. (The connection of the two legs will be done with a thread from the right leg.) 

Squeeze out the right leg 

The only difference between knitting the left foot from the right is the 8th row. 

We knit 11SC in Row 8 (this is needed to adjust the direction of the finger.) 

Then we turn and knit 9SC turn, 8SC turn, 7SC turn, 6SC turn, 5SC turn, 4SC. 

1) Into magic ring 6SC 

2) SC, INC (total 7SC) we knit a chain of 7 CH, start with 2CH from 

hook. 6SC chained, 7SC finger, 6SC chained = 19SC 

3-7) 19SC (5 rows) 

8) We knit the heel. 

11SC turn, 9SC turn, 8SC turn, 7SC turn, 6SC turn, 5SC turn, 4SC. 

9) We tie the foot in a circle. When you get to the front, knit 7DC = 19SC Foot harness: 3SC, DEC, 7DC, DEC, 3SC (decrease should be in the corners). 

10-20) 19SC (11 rows) 

21) For the knee, we knit 4 additions in the front, if required, knit SC to these loops; (Knee: 11SC, 4INC, 4SC = 23SC) 

22) To form the knee, we knit 4 decreases. (Knee: 4DEC, 15SC = 19SC) 

23) 19SC 

24) To knit a beautiful leg, in the 22nd row, knit 4INC from the back, if necessary, knit SC to these loops. (Explanation: 4INC, 15SC = 23SC) 

25-31) 23SC (7 rows) 

32) In this row, the legs will be connected. Do not cut the thread. This will be 1 body row. 

WE KNIT THE BODY 

1) Continue along the right leg 11SC, 2 CH (knit DC into the left leg), along the left leg 23SC, along the chain 2SC, along the right leg 12SC, put a marker – this will be the beginning of a new row = 50 SC (The beginning of the row will be from that place , which is marked with a red thread on the doll’s right leg.) 

2) 16 INC should be located at the back of the doll, strictly in the middle. 

In the front we will knit INC, SC repeat 5 times, create a tummy. 

Explanation: 4SC, 16INC, 13SC, 5 * (INC, SC), 7SC = 71SC 

3-9) 71SC (7 rows) 

10) Shaping the ass. We knit decrements. 

Explanation: 3SC, 4 * (SC, DEC), 10 SC skip, 4 * (SC, DEC), 34 SC = 53SC 

(In other words, 8 decreases will be connected by 4 to the right, 4 to the left. We knit exactly along the stomach.) 

11) 53SC 

12) We knit a row with decreases. 

Explanation: 3SC, 6 * (DEC, SC), 32SC = 47SC 

(2.Sew skipped loops in flesh.) 

13) 47SC 

14) 27SC, 4 * (DEC, SC), 6SC, DEC = 42SC 

14) 18SC, DEC, 20SC, DEC = 40SC 

15) (Subtraction left and right) 17SC, DEC, 19SC, DEC = 38SC 

16) (Subtraction left and right) 17SC, DEC, 17SC, DEC = 36SC 

17) (Subtraction left and right) 16SC, DEC, 17SC, DEC = 34SC 

(Since the last decrease corresponds to the last stitch of the row and the first stitch of the next row, the offset is 1 stitch.) 

19-21) 34SC (3 rows) 

22) We knit hands. Hands are tied in 3 stitches, indicated by pins in 1 photo below. Start by tying in the right arm 3SC arm + body, 14SC, 3SC left arm + body, 13SC, 1DEC (Decrease, can go to the beginning of the 23rd row.) = 34SC 

23. From here we begin to knit by decreasing between the hand and the body, we knit the shoulder. 

The first decrease coincides with the last stitch of row 22 and the beginning of row 23. 

23) In this row, we make 4 decreases in the corners of the arms = 46SC 

Explanation: DEC (Use a 22nd stitch), 9SC, DEC, 12SC, DEC, 9SC, DEC, 12SC = 46SC 

24) Decrease at the corners of the arms = 42SC 

Explanation: DEC, 7SC, DEC, 12SC, DEC, 7SC, DEC, 12SC = 42SC 

25) Decrease at the corners of the arms = 34SC 

Explanation: 2DEC, 2SC, 2DEC, 11SC, 2DEC, 2SC, 2DEC, 11SC = 34SC 

26) In the shoulder area, knit 3SC together. Reduce total by 4 stitches = 30SC (the middle of the shoulder is indicated with a black pin in the photo.) 

Explanation: SC, DEC3, 14SC, DEC3, 13SC = 30SC 

27) In the shoulder area, knit 3SC together. Decrease total by 4 stitches = 26SC 

Explanation: 2 * (DEC3, 12SC) = 26SC 

28) In the shoulder area, knit 1 decrease = 24SC 

Explanation: 2 * (DEC, 11SC) = 24SC 

29) Each side will be reduced by 1 stitch, and we knit a decrease on the last two stitches (we make a decrease in the last two loops of this row, since a shift occurs when decreasing.) = 21SC 

Explanation: DEC, 10SC, DEC, 8SC, DEC = 21SC 

30) We will decrease one side by 1 stitch (because the decrease was made on the last stitch of the 29th row), on the other hand, we will knit 2 decreases = 18x (finish and leave the long one to sew on the head). = 18SC Explanation: DEC, 7SC, 2DEC, 9SC, 1DC = 18SC (Here at the end we knit 9SC so that DC is on the side. So that the end of the thread comes out from the side of the head. If it is in the front, it may not look neat when sewing on the head.) 

HEAD 

1) Into magic ring 6SC 

2) 6INC = 12SC 

3) 6 * (SC, INC) = 18SC 

4) 6 * (2SC, INC) = 24SC 

5) 6 * (3SC, INC) = 30SC 

6) 6 * (4SC, INC) = 36SC 

7) 6 * (5SC, INC) = 42SC 

8) 6 * (6SC, INC) = 48SC 

9) 6 * (7SC, INC) = 54SC 

10) 6 * (8SC, INC) = 60SC 

11-18) 60SC (8 rows) 

19) We make a decrease on the front part. (The pins show the places where the subtraction is made). The eye will be inserted between 19-20 rows with 6 stitches between them. 

Explanation: 17SC, 6 * (DEC, 2SC), 19SC = 54SC 

20) From this row we knit 6 additions over the face. 17SC, 6 * (INC, 2SC), 19SC = 60SC 

21) Cheeks; We knit 8 additions, 4 on one side and 4 on the other side of the nose. The additions begin before the first increase of 20 rad. 17SC, 4 * (INC, SC), 3SC, 1POPcorn (3 DC in 1 loop), 4SC, 4 * (INC, SC), 19SC = 68SC 

22-27) 68SC (6 rows) 

28) We make a reduction for the formation of the cheeks, in those places where we knitted the additions. 4 for the left cheek, 4 for the right cheek with 8 stitches. 17SC, 4 * (DEC, SC), 8SC, 4 * (DEC, SC), 19SC = 60SC 

29) 6 * (DEC, 8SC) = 54 

30) 6 * (DEC, 7SC) = 48 

31) 6 * (DEC, 6SC) = 42 

32) 6 * (DEC, 5SC) = 36 

33) 6 * (DEC, 4SC) = 30 

34) 6 * (DEC, 3SC) = 24 

35) 6 * (DEC, 2SC) = 18 DC cut the thread. 

HEAD; AFTER FITTING THE EYE, EMBROIDERY OF THE Mouth, WE SEW THE HEAD TO THE NECK. 

EYES: 12 mm. BETWEEN ROWS 19 and 20 BELOW, 6 STITCHES BETWEEN TWO EYES. 

Attach the eyes without filling the inside of the head. We will not make an eye-tightening, as we knitted the shape of the head, taking into account the eyes. 

A thorough filling is required when filling the head. Fill your cheeks especially beautifully. If you fill too tight, you will stretch the fabric of the head and it will not be pretty, if you fill not tightly, rounded lines such as the cheeks will lose their contours. 

After attaching the eyes to the head and filling the head with fiber, before sewing the head to the body, we perform processes such as eyebrow embroidery and eyelash gluing. 

EYEBROWS: We start with the 16th row. 

We use a long needle for eyebrow embroidery, this will make your work easier. As in Figure 1, we pass the needle through the neck cavity, which we left open for sewing on the head, and draw the needle out 1 row above the eyes. We embroider the first eyebrow after 4 stitches diagonally across the row, as in picture 2, and move on to the second eyebrow. In Figure 4, we tie the two ends of the yarn in a knot after embroidering the ribs. Be careful when tying the knot, if you tighten too tightly, your eyebrows will look tight and not pretty. 

ADHESIVE EYELASHES 

Cut the finished eyelash for dolls into 2 parts. It can be cut by about 1 cm, but it depends on your preference. To make the lashes thick, I make two layers, so I cut out 4 pieces for both eyes. Sew on the eyelash with a thin black sewing thread or ghost thread and a fine needle. Pay attention to the direction of the cilia. They should be curved from the eye to the brow. 

Sewing on eyelashes can be a little tricky. After sewing on the eyelashes with a flesh-colored thread, we embroider the eyelid above the eyelashes (do this right at the top of the eye, otherwise the eyelash will not rise). This makes the lashes more beautiful and tidy, and the thread looks like an eyelid. 

MOUTH: First, we define the places for the mouth. We define it at the level of the nose with an interval of 2 stitches between the 27th and 28th rows. 

PREPARATION: Insert the needle into the crown of the head, as in Figure 1. You just leave the long end of the thread at the top of the head to tie it later. We withdraw the needle through the previously determined place for the mouth. As in Figure 2, we bring the needle out to the left, skipping 2 stitches, and out the top of the head. Do not withdraw the needle in the same place where the needle was inserted. As in Figure 3, we tighten the thread to form the mouth and tie the two threads well. At the last stage, we hide the ends of the threads inside the head so that they are not visible. This can be done with a needle. If a dimple appears on the head, it’s okay, since the head will be covered with hair. 

Ears: Sew BETWEEN 20 AND 23 ROWS. There should be 6 stitches in the middle of the eye, between the eye and the ear. First knit 5SC into magic ring. Leave both ends of the thread long. Sew on the ear, as in the Figure, using a needle. 

Thread one end of the thread through the needle. Insert the needle from top to bottom, and work out 3 rows below. Bring the second thread to the bottom of the ear and tie a small knot here. Hide the threads in your head. 

DIAPER

(White GAZZAL threads, hook 2.00mm) 

 We knit the diaper in additions and decreases. 

 We knit in rotary rows. 

1) Beginning with a chain of 57 CH with 2CH from the hook, knit 56SC. 

2-5) 56SC (4 rows.) (At the end of each row, knit 1CH and turn the work.) 

6) 9 DC 1 CH, 36SC, 1 DEC, (At the end of each row, knit 1CH and turn the work.) Note: Also, do the decrease at the beginning of the row.) 

7) Skip 1st and start knitting at 2nd loop (Repeat this process up to row 15 at the beginning of each row.) 34SC, 1 DEC 

8) 32SC, 1 DEC = Total 33SC 

9) 30SC, 1 DEC = 31SC 

10) 28SC, 1 DEC = 29SC 

11) 26SC, 1 DEC = 27SC 

12) 1 DEC, 20SC, 2 DEC = 23SC 

13) 1 DEC, 16SC, 2 DEC = 19SC 

14) 1 DEC, 12SC, 2 DEC = 15SC 

15) 1 DEC, 8SC, 2 DEC = 11SC 

16-26) 11SC (11 rows) 

27) 1 INC, 9SC, 1INC = 13SC 

28) 1 INC, 11SC, 1 INC = 15SC 

29) 1 INC, 13SC, 1 INC = 17SC 

30) 1 INC, 15SC, 1 INC = 19SC 

31) 8 CH, with 2 CH from the hook. (on the left, fasten the thread and knit 8CH and tighten the thread.) Continue knitting from right to left. In total, you should get 33SC. 

(EXPLANATION: 19 SC, 7SC on one side of the chain and 7 SC on the other side of the chain = 33 stitches.) 

32-36) 33SC 

37) Tie the entire diaper (2CH, 1DC) in each loop (the goal is to make the panties look pretty). We knit in each loop, we knit in the corner twice. 

IT IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE THE EMBROIDERY ON THE PANTS. 

If your yellow thread is thick, you can split it into multiple threads for embroidery. We embroider in each stitch, in the shape of the letter X. It would be better if you first practice on the pattern and then embroider the X on the panties. 

You can embroider any design you like. Unfortunately, I cannot explain my embroidery. First, I drew it with a pencil and embroidered it with thread. The X-shaped embroidery is made with yellow thread only. 

The buttons will be sewn with a sewing needle to open and close the panties. 

Velcro can also be used if desired. Look at the images, determine the location of the buttons and sew them on. The buttons have two parts. 1 part will be sewn to the top of the panties, and the other part to the bottom of the panties, as in the photo below. 

If you are going to sew on Velcro, you should sew on the Velcro with white sewing thread as shown below. 

We sew the velcro to the inside of the panties, and sew the sticky part to the chanterelles. Look at the picture. 

BLOUSE

(RED THREAD GAZZAL, HOOK 2.00mm) 

1) 49 CH, with 2CH from the 48SC hook. (1 CH and turn) 

2) 48 DC (2 CH and turn) 

3) From the front of the stitch, work 48 INC-DC into each stitch. (2 CH and turn) 48INC-DC = 96SC 

4) 48SC (At the end of the row we knit a chain of 6 CH and then turning the work we knit 1SC in the next row. Loop.) 

5) 48SC 

6) 48 DC 

7) For the front wall of the loop, knit 48 INC-DC. (At the end of the row we knit a chain of 6 CH and then turning the work knit 1SC in the next row. Loop.) 

8) 6Return to the stitches of the 6th row and knit behind the back wall of the stitch. 

7SC, 12 CH, 10 stitches skip, 14SC, 12 CH, 10 stitches skip, 7SC. (We knit the arm straps.) 

9-19) 52SC (At the end of the 17th row, we knit a chain of 6CH.) (11 rows) 

20) 3 CH, skip 1 stitch and knit 1DC into the next loop, knit to the end of the row. 

The buttons are sewn directly on against the buttonholes. 

FASTENING THE HAIR TO THE HEAD For amigurumi, ready-made hair (tress) will be used, 1 meter will be enough. The baby’s hair is short. To do this, the long wefts must be cut. About 10 cm of hair is enough. It is better to trim already on the head, after fastening. 

Sew on the hair in a spiral. 

Sew on the hair, twisting it in a spiral, as in the image. 

After the hair is completely sewn on, we do the hairstyle. Take your hair with both hands, rub it lightly in your palms and tousle it. Then we sew a fishing line by the hair, in a semicircle (you can use a sewing thread, only the stitches will be visible) The front part of the hair is not sewn. If your hair stands on end, then attach your hair to your head and wrap it with salofan and dip your head in hot water, the hair will fall around the head. (The longer the hair, the easier it is to shape as it is steamed.) If the hair is too long, cut it.) 

WE KNIT BANDANA 

Begin with a chain of 12CH, with 3CH from hook, work 10DC, 3CH turn. 

We knit until the full head circumference, I got 38 rows. Next, sew with a needle, and pull to the middle. 

EXPLANATION: 12 CH, with 3 CH from the hook, 10DC (38 Rows) 

For a bow; 19 CH turn, with 3 CH from the 17 DC hook. Work 10 rows. Next, tie the entire piece in a circle. 3CH, skip 1 stitch 1DC into next stitch. 

Pull the thread in the middle and sew to the bandana. 

The finished bow should look like the image, and secured with a bandana thread. 

Additional description of the baby with knitted hair and embroidered eyelashes 

The difference with this baby is that we do not use ready-made hair and eyelashes. 

If you don’t have tresses or are difficult to sew, you can tie 6 curly strands of hair with Alize diva, as shown in the image. 

Too many strands can make a child look more like an adult. The choice is yours. 

Hair; 1) 26 CH, with 2CH from the hook, in each loop we knit INC, SC to the end of the chain. 2) Again we dial 26 CH, with 2CH from the hook. (In total, repeat 6 times, you should get 6 strands) 

You can change the amount of CH from 26 to 30. The curls will be short or long. 

Sew the hair to the hole where you tightened the thread when tightening. 

If you don’t have ready-made eyelashes, you can embroider them with floss. The eyelash is embroidered with black thread, and the thread that we run along the top of the eye is a dark brown alize diva thread. 

We will embroider eyelashes, on the side of the eye at 18-19 rad. Determine the number of eyelashes yourself, according to your desire. At the end, be sure to make up the baby’s cheeks. 

Materials:

1) the basis for the body is PELICAN VITA cotton 50g / 330m. COLOR 3976. Or another cotton with the same footage.

2) shoes and shorts I also recommend using a thread of the same texture as for the body, i.e.

PELICAN VITA cotton 50g / 330m. In your chosen color scheme. Cotton from Rose is also suitable Kirovskaya.

3) hair KAMTEX KARAKUL STRETCH 100gr / 145m. Or other yarn. Any.

4) strong sewing thread in the color of the base, I use the thread for jeans.

5) filler syntepuh.

6) adhesive tape for wrapping the frame: on a polymer basis and on a paper basis – thin.

Width 1 cm. For the manufacture of eyes we use a tissue-based adhesive plaster with a shallow structure (not silk)

7) wire for 1 mm steel frame.

If you use braided wire, 1.5 cm is acceptable.

8) glue crystal moment, glue second gel.

9) for tinting dry pastels

10) synthetic brushes number 1 and 2 for eye decoration. For tinting we use hard brushes.

11) three colors of acrylic paints: white, black and iris color as desired.

12) acrylic primer

13) acrylic varnish.

14) the granulate will be used iron, small, to weight the shoes.

Tools:

1) The most important comment here is the hook 0.9

2) a ruler for determining the size of the spokes is used as a template for the preparation of the eyes.

3) small pliers or pliers

4) I use nail clippers to grab the needle in difficult places.

5) one knitting needle 2.5

6) a stick for sushi or another for stuffing the workpiece.

7) needles: beaded, thin for embroidery eyebrows; plain and darn sewing thick

Abbrevations:

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

hdc – half double crochet

p.shv – buttonhole stitch

dec – decrease

inc – increase

1.Stage

1) 9ch (9)

2) from the second loop 7sc, 3sc into one loop, (*) 6sc, inc. (18)

3) inc, 7sc, inc, 8sc, inc. (21)

4) LEFT: 7sc, 7inc.dc, 2hdc, 5sc. (28)

4) RIGHT: 5sc, 2hdc, 7inc.dc, 7sc. (28)

5) (1sl-st, 1ch. Lift, 1hdc) -all this is knit from the first loop of the 5th row behind the back wall, 27hdc behind the rear walls, 1sl-st (30) (fixed)

(*) – at this point, I open the bundle from the first air loop.

And in VK there is 5 row in a different way. Which option to knit?

Yes, there are changes, but they are not significant, you can knit an option that seems easier.

6) 29 st. (29)

7) behind the rear walls 27sc, 1dec plain (28) *(fixed)

8) 9sc, 5dec, 9sc. (23)

9) Back. Rotary rows. 7sc, rotate knitting.

10) knit on the back wall * 2ch. in the second sc * 13sc. (thirteen)

11) * 12sc. (12)

12) * 11sc. (eleven)

13) * 10sc. (10)

Cut the thread, hide it.

2.Stage

• should the top of the boots be a ladder? For some reason I get it

• yes, a small ladder – at the expense of 2ch, this is a kind of lacing. But if knitting is weak and

a short flight of stairs, then you can do 1 ch.

Insoles

1) use 1mm thick cardboard for the base

2) make a template according to the size of the workpiece circled around the perimeter

3) the patterns should be in mirror image i.e. left and right

4) glue the crystal in the heel area on the glue.

3.Stage

1) for the rear walls of the 10th row of the backdrop from 2x pp (ribs) we form 1sc, 1sc into the occupied loop, 2dec, 1sc, 2dec, 1sc into a busy loop, 1sc to be tied from the back of the item. (9)

2) knit on the back walls! 1ch, 2sc, 1dec, 1sc, 1dec, 2sc. (7)

3) (1ch, in the second sc) * 6sc (6)

4) * 5sc (5)

5) * 4sc (4)

6) * 3sc (3)

7) 3sc (3)

Cut the thread, hide it.

4.Stage

We form a frame for the foot

PS we make the segments of the frame:

10 / 11cm – handles – rocker

11cm – leg

18cm – leg

1) knit 14sc from the half-loop of the boot, evenly distributing in a circle. (5sc from heel to tongue, 4sc on tongue, 5 sc from tongue to heel) (9)

2) 2sc, 5dec, 2sc. (9)

3.4) 9sc. (9)

5) 8sc, 1sl-st. (9)

6) we knit 8sc 1sl-st for the back walls. (9)

5.Stage

1) 4ch.

2) from the second loop 2sc, 3sc into one loop (* dissolve the nodule from the first ch), 2sc. (7)

3) 7sc. (7)

4) (we work in one loop: 1sc, 2ch, 1sc in ch, 1sl-st) 6sc. (10)

5) 10sc (10)

6) 10sc (10)

7) 2dec, 2sc, 1dec, 2sc (7)

8-22) 7sc (7)

6.Stage

1) 9st. Loop seam behind the rear walls. (9)

2) 9sc for the rear walls. (9)

3-7) 9sc (9)

8) 6sc, 2incDC, 1sc (11)

Winding a patch to thicken the thigh

9) 6sc, 2dec, 1sc (9)

10-12) 9sc (9)

13) 1sc, 1inc, 7sc (10)

14-18) 10sc (10)

7.Stage

1) .9sc. With a seam behind the rear walls. (9)

2) 9sc for the rear walls. (9)

3-7) 9sc (9)

8) 5sc, 2incDC, 2sc (11)

Winding a patch to thicken the thigh

9) 5sc, 2dec, 2sc (9)

10-12) 9sc (9)

13) 2sc, 1inc, 6sc (10)

14-18) 10sc

8.Stage

We form a skeleton

• And how many cm between the legs?

I get about 1.6 cm

1) Start with the right leg, bring the main thread (beige) to the center of the inner thigh (I make 3 sl-st) in the fourth we introduce a contrasting thread (underpants) and we knit 10 st. BACK walls, 9ch, left leg (also beige thread to align the center of the inner thigh – I have 2sc, 3sl-st, 1sl-st behind the back wall) with a contrasting thread – guide the thread before work (frame) 10st.pet.shv for REAR walls. (29)

2) 9sc. New row mark.

3) for the rear walls 10sc, 9sc for ch (front), 10sc for the rear walls, 1sc, 3inc, 1sc, 3inc, 1sc (booty) (44)

4-6) 44sc (44)

7) 28sc, (1dec, 1sc) × 6 (38) make 2sc to offset the row.

8) 24sc, (1dec, 1sc) × 5 (33) 1sl-st

9) the color of the carcass – we knit for the back walls 1sl-st, 32st.p. seam. (33) 2 loops row offset.

10) behind the rear walls 33sc (33)

11) 17sc, (1sc, dec) × 5, 1sc (28)

12) 1sc offset, 16sc, (1dec, 1sc) × 4 (24)

13) 24sc (24)

14) 1sc offset, 11sc, dec, 10sc, dec – 1sc offset. * in this row it is necessary to determine decrease in the lateral centers. (22) New row marker, offset 1sc

15) 22sc (22)

16) 9sc, dec, 9sc, dec (20)

17) 20sc (20)

18) 1sc as a row offset. 8sc, dec, 8sc, dec. (18).

19) (1sl-st, 7sc on the handle-right, 1sl-st on the occupied loop), 8sc on the breast, (1sl-st, 7sc on the left handle, 1sl-st in a busy loop), 7sc on the back. Shift the row to the right by 1 loop. (34)

20) dec on the back, dec on the handle, 3sc on the handle, dec on the handle, dec on the breast, 6sc on the breast, dec on breast, dec on rkchke, 3sc on the handle, dec on the handle, dec on the back, 5sc on the back. Row offset right on 1sc. (26)

21) dec on the back, dec on the handle, 2sc handle, dec on the handle, dec on the breast, 3sc on the breast, dec on the breast, dec on the handle, 2sc on the handle, dec on the handle, dec on the back, 2sc on the back. Right shift 1sc (18)

22) dec on the back, dec on the handle, dec on the handle, dec on the breast, dec on the breast, dec on the handle, dec on the handle, dec on the back. Shifting the row to the right by 1sc (9) i.e. only 9 decreases.

23) in this row, decide the number of loops intuitively 7 or 8 – the thickness of the doll’s neck. So: dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec (7)

24, 25) 7sc (7)

26) 1 sc, inc, 5sc (8)

9.Stage

1) 8inc (16)

2) (1sc, inc) * 8 (24)

3) (2sc, inc) * 8 (32)

4) (3sc, inc) * 8 (40)

5) (4sc, inc) * 8 (48)

6) (5sc, inc) * 8 (56)

7) (6sc, inc) * 8 (64)

8-25) 64sc (64)

* you can increase the number of rows by making the head oval

26) (6sc, dec) * 8 (56)

27) (5sc, dec) * 8 (48)

28) (4sc, dec) * 8 (40)

29) (3sc, dec) * 8 (32)

30) (2sc, dec) * 8 (24)

31) (1sc, dec) * 8 (16)

32) dec * 8 (8)

10.Stage

ch

Leave a hole, cut the thread 20 cm, use it to embroider the nose

The photo shows the option of “big” ears

1) Magic ring: 2sc, 1hdc, 3dc, 1hdc, 1p.st, ch (9)

2) turn the knitting and for the rear walls 9st.pet.shv. (9)

3) pull off.

11.Stage

The ears are small:

1) 6sc magic ring. Stitch, sew

1) determine the symmetrical location of the ears by setting markers. Namely, count from the first row of the head is the 11th row – this will be the row of the location of the earlobe. Upper ear (for example) will be located in the 15th row.

1.1) determine the lateral center of the ear and count half the sc horizontally head circumference (32) – set the marker for the location of the second ear.

2) sew the ear with the working thread of the part (ear) in several stitches as shown in the photo, use the hole in the head to fix the working thread Place the nose in the same row with the lower part (earlobe) of the ear, i.e. in the 11th row. Location center can also be calculated mathematically sc from ear to ear. I embroider a nose on 4sc in 3-4 stitch

Position the eyebrows, counting the 8th and 9th row from the nose. Embroider symmetrically as shown in a photo

12.Stage

Girls, this is an important and necessary stage.

We are counting the rows from the first row of the head.

We carry the marker vertically, only at the extreme points of the holes.

1) in the 6th row – retreat from the earlobe vertically down 6 rows and retreat horizontally 7sc, then to every fifth point × 5 holes.

2) in the 9th row – at every fifth point × 7 holes.

3) in the 12th row – in every fifth point – 8 holes.

4) in the 15th row – at every fifth point 9 holes

5) in the 18th row – from the temple to the 4th point, the rest to every fifth point = 10 holes

6) in the 21st row – at the temple in the 4th, then in every fifth point = 11 holes.

7) in the 24th row – alternately 4/5 point = 13 holes

8) in the 26th row, every fifth point = 13 holes

9) “bangs” 4 holes

10) in a circle at every 4th point = 13 holes.

11) and then to the top of the head in a circle repeat the algorithm at every 4th point So, having made the correct marking, it will be easy for you to fix the locks of hair around the circumference heads. Use a strong working thread for sewing strands

For drawing eyes, I use a stencil, fabric adhesive, primer, acrylic paints, brushes.

PS We will cover with varnish afterwards directly on the doll and put the glare too, when it’s already eyes will be glued

I embroider cilia with the “sun” for this, determine the center point and the points of the rays, also use eye blanks or a template for trying on

In tinting, focus on your own feelings

13.Stage

1) Cut out the eyes

2) Put them on the doll’s face

3) glue gel moment squeeze a small amount to the surface

4) using a toothpick, pry off the edge of the eye and apply a small amount of glue with a toothpick so that the glue is evenly distributed, without excess!

5) you need to either clean the toothpick or take another (to remove any glue residue) and roll it in to smooth the eye gently! Only when you make sure that excess glue does not go out can to press the eye with a finger

Follow point 4 and 5 in turn; top – bottom of the eye.

6) with a thin brush, draw a contour around the eye, after drying it can be varnished, and give varnish dry naturally (spread overnight)

14.Stage

1) 49ch

2) 48sc

3) (8sc, dec) × 4, 8sc (44)

4) 44sc

5) (7sc, dec) × 2, 8sc, (dec, 7sc) × 2 (40)

6) 40sc

7) 7sc, (dec, 6sc) × 3, dec, 7sc (36)

8) 36sc

9) (6sc, dec, 5sc, dec) × 2, 6sc (32)

10) 32sc

11) 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 5sc (28)

12) 28sc

13) (4sc, dec) × 4, 4sc (24)

14) 24sc

15) 24sc (if the length of the dress is short, then knit another two rows)

16) 4sc, 5ch, 4sc back, 8sc, 5ch, 4sc back, 4sc.

17) 2sc, dec, 5sc coverage by ch, dec, 4sc, dec, 5sc coverage by ch, dec, 2sc (22)

Hide the thread as shown in the photo.

PS decreases go beyond the back wall only from the wrong side of the product

Supplies / What you’ll need :

• Lammy Yarns Rio (or other cotton yarn) in the following colours ; silver (003),

grey (004), white (005), black, skin colour (218).

• Super Soft Yarn from Zeeman ; White

• A 2 mm crochet hook , or a hook matching your yarn

• Yarn needle, embroidery needle

• Safety eyes (8/9 mm diam.)

• Scissors

• Tape measure

• Safety pins

• Stitch markers

• Some blush for the cheeks

• Accessories; e.g. Butterflies, Easter Eggs, ribbons, buttons, … you can find

these online or at a local craft supply or yarn shop or Action, Xenos even

Zeeman or Wibra

• Stuffing (Fiberfill)

• Optional ; embroidery thread

When Jacky is crocheted with a 2mm crochet hook and the indicated yarn, she will

be about 40 cm tall

Stitches / Abbreviations :

Yo Yarn over hook

ch Chain

tCh Turning Chain

Chstch Chain stitch

Slstch Slipstitch

MC Magic Circle

BLO Work into the back loop of the stitch only

tch Turning Chain

TW Turn your work

SC Single Crochet

HDC Half Double Crochet

DC Double Crochet

tog Together

2 tog Crochet 2 stitches together, making one stitch

 out of two or Decrease (Dec)

Inc Crochet two stitches in one stitch making two

 stitches out of one or Increase

(..) Total of stitches after a round or row

R Row or Round

( ) x 6 Repeat the action between brackets, times 6,

or for the indicated number of times

Unless mentioned otherwise, we will be working in continuous rounds ! Also, take

care to watch out for the colour changes in certain parts of the pattern, they will be

indicated as such.

PATTERN

Shoes :

Make two

With black ;

Ch 10

R 1. In 2nd chain from hook ;

SC2, SC7, SC Inc, proceed into the opposite side of the chain ( so, do not turn, just

keep on working in the back bumps of your chain, so you get a continuous ‘spiral’)

SC2 in same chain ( in total you should now have 4 SC’s in the same Chstch ), SC7,

SC Inc (22)

R2. SC Inc, SC1, SC Inc, SC 5, SC Inc, SC1, (SC Inc)x2, SC1, SC Inc, SC5, SC Inc, SC1,

SC Inc (30)

R3. (SC Inc)x2, SC2, SC Inc, SC6, SC Inc, SC2, (SC Inc)x 3, SC2, SC Inc, SC6, SC Inc,

SC2, SC Inc (40)

R4. SC4, SC Inc, SC15, (SC Inc)x 2, SC13, SC Inc, SC4 (44)

R5. BLO SC 44 around (44),

R6. Change colour to grey SC44 around (44)

R7 – R8.SC 44 around (44)

R9. SC18, (SC1, SC Dec)x 6, SC11 (38)

R10. SC38 around (38)

R11. SC12, (SC1, SC Dec)x 6, SC8 (32)

R12. SC32 around (32)

R13. SC10, (SC Dec)x 8, SC6 (24)

R14. SC24 around (24)

R15. (SC2, SC Dec)x 6 (12)

R16. SC12 around (12)

Change colour to grey

R17. SC4 ( you arrive in the middle of the back part of the shoe), change to white,

Slstch, SC18 (18)

R18. HDC18 around (18)

R19 – R20. HDC 18 around (18)

R21. (HDC 2, HDC Inc)x 6 (24)

R22. HDC 24 around (24)

R23. HDC23, SC1, HDC1 (24)

Fasten Off. Leave a tail for sewing the leg into the shoe later on. Fold over the ribbing

(brim) of the shoe. Make the second shoe.

Stuff only the shoe part, not the brim. You’ll need this space later on, for the leg.

Legs :

Make two

With silver, we first start making a sock ;

SC 6 into MC

R 1. ( SC Inc ) x 6 (12)

R2 – R 7. SC12 around (12)

Change to White

R 8. SC12 around (12)

R 9. SC12 around (12)

Change to silver

R 10. SC12 around (12)

R 11. SC12 around (12)

Change to white

R12. SC12 around (12)

R13. SC 12 around (12)

Change to skin colour

R14 – R41. SC12 around ( 28 Rnds) ** (12)

Change to grey

R42. SC12 (12)

R43 – R44. SC12 around (12)

R45. (SC3, SC Inc)x 3 (15)

** Start stuffing the leg around Rnd 23, right up to approx. a cm above the last white

stripe of the sock. You will not stuff the remainder of the leg, since it is supposed to be

‘floppy, wobbly’ so it ‘falls’ nicely when you put your Jacky onto the edge of a

cupboard, on the mantelpiece or on the windowsill and the legs won’t stick straight

out !

Fasten off and weave in ends of the first leg after R45.

Do not fasten off the second leg. Instead, you will Ch 3 after R45, attach this Ch onto

the first leg with a SC and SC around the perimeter of the leg. Ch3 after this Rnd as

well, proceeding to attach this Ch3 with SC onto the first leg as well (36 SC)

Now, you will continue with the rest of …

Body :

With silver ;

R1 – R12. SC 36 around (36)

R 13. Make a few SC’s so as to arrive in the middle of the back.

Change to white , SC 36 (36)

R 14. Change back to silver BLO SC5, SC Dec, SC2, SC Dec, SC12, SC Dec, SC2, SC

Dec, SC7 (32)

R15. SC6, SC Dec, SC15, SC Dec, SC6 (30)

R16. SC7, SC Dec, SC14, SC Dec, SC5 (28)

R17. SC8, SC Dec, SC13, SC Dec, SC4 (26)

Leave the body for now. We will start on the skirt

I begin working on the skirt at this point, because the body isn’t stuffed yet, so it’s

easier to manipulate. I fasten off the body part, and re-attach later, because the

yarn end with the skein tends to twist and turn and get tangled when I’m working on

the skirt, and this bothers me. However, if you’re ok with it, by all means, leave it as is,

so you can pick your yarn up later.

Position the body, its opening facing you, legs pointing upward. Attach white yarn

into the loops of R14.

The Skirt :

With white

R1 Start by making an SC Increase in every stitch around, close the Rnd with a Slstch

(72)

R2. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

R3. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

Change to Silver

R4. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

R5. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

Change to Grey (004)

R6. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

R7. Ch2, SC72, Slstch (72)

Change to black

R8. (SC3 into 1)x 72 (216)

Fasten Off, weave in ends

Sew the crotch shit and stuff the body. You will be stuffing the rest of the body as you

go. You will not stuff the neck, a special part will be made for support purposes ,

which I call the ‘sausage’

Proceed with making the body ;

R18. SC 7, SC Dec, SC12, SC Dec, SC3 (24)

R19. SC7, SC Dec, SC11, SC Dec, SC2 (22)

R20. SC7, SC Dec, SC10, SC Dec, SC1 (20)

R21. With silver SC7, SC Dec, SC9, SC Dec, SC2 (18)

Change to skin colour

R22. SC4, SC Dec, SC8, SC Dec, SC2 (16)

R23. SC4, SC Dec, SC7, SC Dec, S1 (14)

R24. SC4, SC Dec, SC6, SC Dec (12)

R25 – R28. SC12 around (12)

Now for the head. Do not fasten off, but continue onwards from R28 as follows ;

The Head :

R29. (SC1, SC Inc)x 6 (18)

R30. (SC2, SC Inc)x 6 (24)

R31. (SC3, SC Inc)x 6 (30)

R32. (SC4, SC Inc)x 6 (36)

R33. (SC5, SC Inc)x 6 (42)

R34. (SC6, SC Inc)x 6 (48)

R35 – R43. SC 48 around ** (48)

** place a stitch marker in between row 39 and row 40, you will attach your safety

eyes here later.

When I start decreasing i the head part, I tend to change the colour from skin colour

to white, this allows me to determine the positioning of the hair more accurately later

on. This is a personal preference of course, and if you prefer continuing in skin colour,

please feel free to do so !

R44. (SC6, SC Dec)x 6 (42)

R45. (SC5, SC Dec)x 6 (36)

R46. (SC4, SC Dec)x 6 (32)

R47. (SC6, SC Dec)x 6 (24)

The Sausage :

Before you continue Decreasing, you will make the ‘sausage’ for the neck part.

Starting with skin colour ;

SC 5 into MC

R1. (SC Inc) around (10)

R2 – R14. SC10 around (10)

Stuff firmly, it is important that the sausage be firm to be able to support the neck, so

don’t skimp on the Fiberfil !

Place the sausage in the neck, making sure it covers it and that the bottom part of

the sausage meets the body. ( you can gentle squeeze the body to feel where it

should go)

The Eyes and the Nose :

Attach the safety eyes in between R 11 & R 12 of the head, leaving a space of about

8 stitches in between them.

If you do this at this point, you can still easily add eyelashes to the eyes before

securing them, because the stitches can still be easily reached with your needle.

I usually use a piece of black 4ply cotton thread, of which I remove two strands. You

can also use embroidery thread if you have this, and glue on some fake lashes,

whichever you prefer.

Now, create a nose with the skin coloured yarn , one row down and in between the

eyes. Make two stitches over the width of 2 v-stitches (SC’s)).

Stuffing the Head :

In order for the head to have a nice, round and even shape, without lumps or

bumps, it is key to stuff it with care.

I proceed as follows ;

Put four fingers into the head, carefully stretching the fabric of the bottom part with

your index finger and your middle finger. Don’t stretch your crochet work out too

much, though ! Take some Fiberfil, pry it open, gently place it across the bottom of

the head, repeat, working in layers as it were and making sure to carefully line all the

sides as well. The middle part is left unfilled for now, so it should look a bit like a donut.

You stuff the middle in the end of the stuffing process, this when the sides are all

lined, this is for an even result, without lumps, from the bottom up, all the way to the

top.

You can give the cheeks a flush of colour, or even make a freckle or two ?

I use light pink blush and apply it with an eyeshadow brush. Dip the brush into the

blush, swipe over a paper towel to remove the excess and apply carefully. Less is

more, so apply carefully, you can always add more if need be. If you apply too

much, you won’t be able to correct it anymore, so I urge you to be vigilant !

Proceed with closing the head ;

R48. (SC2, SC Dec)x 6 (18)

R49. (SC1, SC Dec)x 6 (12)

Fasten off, weave in ends.

The Arms :

(Make two)

With skin colour ;

R 1. SC 5 into MC (5)

R 2. (SC Inc)x 5 (10)

R 3 – R6. SC 10 around (10)

! Change to silver

R 7 – R 30. SC 10 around ** (10)

** Start stuffing when you’ve arrived at approx. Rnd 12.

You will not stuff the rest of the arm, just like the legs aren’t stuffed completely . This is

to ensure the arms from falling/hanging nicely at the sides of the body.

Pinch the arm together and crochet together two by two stitches. (4)

Attach both arms onto the body at approx. the height of the neck, right where the

colour changes from skin colour to silver.

Ribbing/Brim for the neck :

This part of the pattern is crocheted in rows, not in a spiral.

The finished piece should look like a small rectangle.

With silver ;

R1. Ch 8, SC into 2nd from hook, SC6, tCh (7)

R2 – R 22. SC7 , tCh around for 21 rows (7)

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Depending on how firmly you’ve stuffed the body, you might need to make a row or

two extra here.

Fold in two and sew shut at the ‘short’ sides. Place onto the colour change of the

neck part (silver to skin colour), with the fold facing up.

Because it can be a bit of a challenge to attach this part, I always pin it into place

first. I also press the arms down to the sides of the body, in order to make it easier to

wrap the ribbing around the neck. Sew together the two short sides of your

rectangle, creating a seam, which should be positioned at back of the neck. Secure

the ribbing onto the body with a few strategically placed stitches. Be careful not to

pull your stitches too tough, or you will get an uneven, ‘bumpy’ result !

The Ribbing for the Sleeves/Arms :

(Make two)

This part of the pattern is crocheted in rows, not in a spiral.

The finished piece should look like a small rectangle.

With silver ;

R1. Ch 8, SC into 2nd from hook, SC 6, tch (7)

R2 – R 17. SC7 , tCh around (7)

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

You might also need a row or two more here, again depending on how firmly the

arms have been stuffed. Fold over the finished piece, sew close on the shortest sides,

pin into place and attach to the arm where the colour changes from silver to skin

colour, the fold facing down. Sew both short sides together, creating a seam. Secure

with a few stitches, making sure your seam faces the back of the arm. Again, do not

pull too hard on the stitches here, so you don’t get any ‘lumps’, and the ribbing stays

nice and even.

The Socks :

(Make two)

This part of the pattern is crocheted in rows, not in a spiral.

The finished piece should look like a small rectangle.

With white ;

R1. Ch 8, SC into 2nd from hook, SC6, tCh (7)

R2 – R 19. SC7, tCh around (7)

Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

Depending on how firmly you’ve stuffed the body, you might need to make a row or

two extra here.

Fold in two and sew shut at the ‘short’ sides. Place onto the colour change, with the

fold facing up.

Pin into place. Sew together the two short sides of your rectangle, creating a seam,

which should be positioned at the back of the leg. Secure the ribbing onto the leg

with a few strategically placed stitches. Be careful not to pull your stitches too tough,

or you will get an uneven, ‘bumpy’ result !

Assembly for Leg & Shoe :

Now it’s time to put some shoes on !

You will attach the leg to the shoe, using the tail of the Supersoft yarn you’ve left out

before. First, work the yarn tail up to the middle of the ribbing. Next, unfold , place

the leg into the opening and carefully guide your yarn tail through the shoe and

through the leg and back again, thus securing the shoe onto the leg. Don’t pull too

tightly on your stitches and make sure the toes of shoes are pointing forward ! These

stitches should be made at about mid-height, right where you’ve just worked up your

yarn tail, making sure the leg is positioned deep enough into the shoe.

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Fold the ribbing back over. Repeat this process for the

second leg.

Hair

(‘Wig’ part)

With black ;

R 1. SC 6 into MC or Ch 2 and SC 6 into first Chstch (6)

R 2. ( SC Inc ) x 6 (12)

R 3. ( SC 1, SC Inc )x 6 (18)

R 4. ( SC 2, SC Inc )x 6 (24)

R 5. ( SC 3, SC Inc )x 6 (30)

R 6. ( SC 4, SC Inc )x 6 (36)

R 7. ( SC 5, SC Inc )x 6 (42)

R 8. ( SC 6, SC Inc )x 6 (48)

R 9 – R 17. SC 48 around (48)

R 18. Slstch around, work loosely!

Fasten off, leave long tail for sewing.

Hair Buns :

Make two

With black ;

R 1. SC 6 into MC or Ch 2 and SC 6 into first Chstch (6)

R 2. ( SC Inc ) x 6 (12)

R 3. ( SC 1, SC Inc )x 6 (18)

R 4. ( SC 2, SC Inc )x 6 (24)

R 5 – R 6. SC 24 around (24)

R 7. ( SC 2, SC Dec)x 6 (18)

Fasten off, leave long tail for sewing the buns onto the hair.

Where you put them, is down to your imagination.

I usually put mine rather high up onto the head ( in between Rnds 7 & 11, counting

from the MC on the ‘wig’ hair part you’ve just created )

First, I encourage you to pin down the buns, so you can still move them, see what

looks best. Find the placement that ‘works’ for you and sew shut about 3/4ths of the

bun. This way, you can still stuff them more, if need be.

We all like nice, tight looking buns, don’t we ? �

Accessories :

Now, for the most fun part. After all your hard crochet work, you can relax and start

decorating your Jacky. You can use whatever you fancy and what you feel your

version of Jacky needs. You can adapt her to the Season, make a boy version of

Jacky with some trousers, change her hairstyle, add flowers, buttons, … The

possibilities are endless !

Is she ready ? Put her in the spotlights and show her off, share her with the rest of the

World !

Variations :

You can let your creative juices flowing and customise this pattern to your taste ! I’ve

lined up some of my ‘Jacky’-creations for inspiration. For example, mind the detail on

the shoes.

And what do you think about the Easter-Jacky ? Aren’t they cute ?

The Low Shoes (ballerina’s) :

These are not made separately, but are attached to the leg.

Proceed as follows ;

R1 – R 9 : See description Shoe n°1, then change to sock colour

R10. Same as in description of shoe n°1 (see pg. 5) but BLO (!)

R11 – R16. Same as in description shoe n°1 (see pg. 5)

R17. (SC1, SC Inc)x 6 (12)

R18 – R23. SC23 around (23)

Change to skin colour and proceed with the rest of the shoe pattern from R24

onwards.

In order to accentuate the shoe, make a few stitches (colour of the shoe) into the

front loops of R10.

Next, Ch30, and wrap this chain forming an ‘X’ around on the front of the foot, right

beneath the ribbing, wrapping it further around onto the back of the leg. Secure it at

the back of the leg (see photo).

Tiny Daisy Flower for the Low Shoe * :

With yellow ;

R 1. SC 6 into MC , Slstch,

Change to White ;

R 2. (Ch3, SC1)x 5

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

(*The pattern of this Daisy Flower is by Christel Krukkert, from her book ‘Christels’

Knuffels’, it’s the flower on the dress of the little pig.)

MATERIALS

Kartopu Organica color no: K1219 (Skin )

Kartopu Organica color no: K1920 (Grey)

Kartopu Organica color no: K010 (White)

Kartopu Organica color no: K258 (Pink)

Kartopu Organica color no: K245 (Pink for

candy)

Kartopu Organica color no: K331 (Yellow)

Kartopu Organica color no: K0380 (Blue)

Alize coton gold color no: 688 (Hair)

 2,2 mm crochet hook, sewing needle,

Polyester fiberfill for stuffing,

 8 mm safety eyes.

ABBREVIATIONS:

Magic ring: Magic ring,

 sc: single crochet,

İNC: increase,

DEC: decrease,

 x: repeat.

BLO: Back Loop only,

FLO: Front Loop only,

DC: Double crochet.

DECDC: Double crochet decrease,

İNCDC: Double crochet increase.

HEAD:

1. 6 sc in magic ring: 6 sc,

2. 6inc : 12 sc,

3. (1 sc, İNC) x 6 : 18 sc,

4. (2 sc, İNC) x 6 : 24 sc,

5. (3 sc, İNC) x 6 : 30 sc,

6. (4 sc, İNC) x 6 : 36sc,

7. (5 sc, İNC) x 6 : 42 sc,

8. (6 sc, İNC) x 6 : 48 sc,

9. (7 sc, İNC) x 6 : 54 sc,

10. (8 sc, İNC) x 6 : 60 sc,

11-15. 60 sc, ( 5 Rows )

16. (14 sc, İNC ) x 4 : 64 sc,

17-20. 64 sc, ( 4 Rows )

21. (15 sc, İNC ) x 4 : 68 sc,

22-24. 68 sc, ( 3 Rows )

25. (16 sc, İNC ) x 4 : 72 sc,

26-28. 72 sc, ( 3 Rows )

29. (7 sc, DEC) x 8 : 64 sc,

30. (6 sc, DEC) x 8 : 56 sc,

Insert the safety eyes between round

21 and 22, leave 12 hole between them.

31. (5 sc, DEC) x 8 : 48 sc,

32. (4 sc, DEC) x 8 : 40 sc,

33. (3 sc, DEC) x 8 : 32 sc,

34. (2 sc, DEC) x 8 : 24 sc,

35. (4 sc, DEC) x 4 : 20 sc, finish it with

slip stitch, leave long yarn tail for

sewing and fill the head.

FOOT-LEG

1. Chain 7, leave 1 and sc next, 1 İNC, 4 sc, 3 sc in 1, 5 sc : 14 sc,

2. 2 İNC, 4 sc, 3 İNC, 4 sc, 1 İNC : 20 sc,

3-4. 20 sc, ( 2 Rows )

5. 1 DEC, 9 sc, 1 DEC, 7 sc : 18 sc,

6-7. 18 sc, ( 2 Rows )

8. 1 DEC, 8 sc, 1 DEC, 6 sc : 16 sc,

9-10. 16 sc, ( 2 Rows )

11-16. Chain 1, turn, 5 sc : 5 sc, ( 6 times)

17. 4 sc, take 1 sc from side 1 sc from middle and decrease, 1 DEC, 5 sc, 1 DEC, take 1 sc from middle

1 sc from side and decrease, 4 sc, 1 DEC, 1 sc, 1 DEC: 20 sc,

18. 3 sc, 3 sc in 1 (decrease), 5 sc, 3 sc in 1 (decrease), 6 sc : 16 sc,

19-37. 16 sc, (19 Rows)

38. 15 sc, (Leave 1 from dec row) fill the leg.

39. Put two side together and crochet 8 sc,

40. Chain 1, crochet both side of your 8 sc : 16 sc,

41-48. 16 sc, (8 Rows)

Change color to Pink,

49-56. 16 sc, ( 8 Rows )

finish it with slip stitch and fill the leg.

Make the second leg with same pattern.

BODY

We will join the legs and continue to body from here.

1. Start with first leg. From back side, put two side together ang crochet 8 sc, chain 6 on the

middle, fort he second leg, put two side together ang crochet 8 sc : 22 sc,

2. Chain 1, Crochet both side of your 22 sc : 44 sc,

3. ( 10 sc, 1 İNC ) x 4 : 48 sc,

4-9. 48 sc, ( 6 Rows)

 Change color to White,

10.. BLO 48 sc,

11. 48 sc,

 Change color to Grey,

12. 48 sc,

 Change color to White,

13-14. 48 sc, ( 2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

15. 48 sc,

 Change color to White,

16-17. 48 sc, ( 2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

18. 48 sc,

 Change color to White,

19-20. 48 sc, ( 2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

21. 48 sc,

 Change color to White,

22. 48 sc,

23. ( 10 sc, 1 DEC ) x 4 : 44 sc,

 Change color to Grey,

24. 44 sc,

 Change color to White,

25. 44 sc,

26. (9 sc, 1 DEC) x 4 : 40 sc,

 Change color to Grey,

27. 40 sc,

 Change color to White,

28. 40 sc,

29. (6 sc, 1 DEC) x 5 : 35 sc,

 Change color to Grey,

30. 35 sc,

 Change color to White,

31. 35 sc,

32. (5 sc, 1 DEC) x 5 : 30 sc,

 Change color to Grey,

33. 30 sc,

 Change color to White,

34. 30 sc,

35. (4 sc, 1 DEC) x 5 : 25 sc,

 Change color to Grey,

36. 25 sc,

 Change color to skin color,

37. BLO  25 sc,

38. (3 sc, 1 DEC) x 5 : 20 sc,

39. 20 sc, finish it with slip stitch and fill

the body.

Our toy’s neck is slim as you see. We need to help it with dec device. I used dec flag stick for

support the head. You can also use wire or thick straw too. We prepare it for 6 cm long. Insert

3 cm inside to neck and body, 3 cm inside to head.

ARMS:

Start with skin color.

1. 8 sc in magic ring: 8 sc,

2. (1 sc, 1 İNC ) x 4 : 12 sc,

3-5. 12 sc, (3 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

6. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

7-8. 35 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

9.. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

10-11. 12 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

12.. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

13-14. 12 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

15. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

16-17. 12 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

18. 12 sc, fill this part of your arm,

 Change color to White,

19. 6 DEC : 6 sc,

20. 6 İNC : 12 sc,

 Change color to Grey,

21. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

22-23. 12 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

24. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

25-26. 12 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

27. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

28-29. 12 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

30. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

31-32. 12 sc, (2 Rows)

 Change color to Grey,

33. 12 sc,

 Change color to White,

Chain 1, Put two side together and crochet 6

sc : 6 sc, finish it with slip stitch, leave long

yarn tail for sewing.

JUMPER

 2 chain in the beginning will count as dec DC.

1. Chain 25, slip stitch to first chain and make dec ring. Chain 2 and crochet 24 DC : 25 DC,

2-6. Slip stitch to first DC, chain 2 and up, 24 DC : 25 DC, ( 5 Rows)

Slip stich to first DC and finish. Make the second leg but don’t cut the yarn. We will crochet from

here. Chain 3 for middle of your legs. Slip thitch to first leg. The join point must be back of your

jumper.

1. Chain 2 and up, 1 DC in same stich ( this mean dec İNC), 23 DC, 2 İNCDC, 1 DC, 2 İNCDC, 23 DC, 2

DCV, 1 DC, 1 İNCDC : 64 DC,

2. Slip stich to First DC, chain 2 and up, 6 DC, 1 İNC, ( 7 DC, 1 İNCDC ) x 7 : 72 DC,

3-5. Slip stich to First DC, chain 2 and up,71 DC, ( 3 Rows)

6. Slip stich to First DC, chain 2 and up, 7 DC, 1 İNC, ( 8 DC, 1 İNCDC ) x 7 : 72 DC,

7. Chain 1, up, 8 sc, chain 3, (Leave 14 for pocket), 26 sc, chain 3, (Leave 14 for pocket), 18 sc : 58

sc,

8-9. Chain 2 and up, 57 DC : 58 DC, ( 2 Rows )

10. Chain 2 and up, 1 DECDC each side, DC rest of the row : 56 DC,

11. Chain 2 and up, 11 DC, 1 DECDC, ( 12 DC, 1 DECDC ) x 3 : 52 DC,

12. Chain 2 and up, 10 DC, 1 DECDC, ( 11 DC, 1 DECDC ) x 3 : 48 DC,

13. Chain 1 and up, 28 sc, don’t finish the row, chain 1 turn,

14-19. 12 sc, chain 1 turn,

20. Continue to side, 6 sc to side, 36 sc,

continue to other side, 6 sc, slip stich to the

next stich. We will continue with suspenders

like the Picture. Chain 45, slip stich to other

side. Chain 1 and turn, 45 sc, slip stich to

beginning of the chain. You should have dec

ring. Dress your baby first and sew he

suspender on back of the jumper from middle

point.

POCKET:

1. Chain 13, leave 2 and turn, make 11 DC:

12 DC,

2. Chain 2 and turn, 2 DC, 1 İNCDC, 4 DC, 1

İNCDC, 3 DC : 14 DC,

3. Chain 2 and turn, 2 DC, 1 İNCDC, 5 DC, 1

İNCDC, 3 DC : 16 DC,

4. Chain 2 and turn, 2 DC, 1 İNCDC, ( 3 DC, 1

İNCDC) x 3 : 20 DC,

5. Chain 2 and turn, 19 DC,

6. Chain 2 and turn, 3 DC, 1 İNCDC, ( 4 DC, 1

İNCDC) x 3 : 24 DC,

7. Chain 2 and turn, 24 DC, Finish it and

leave dec long yarntail for sewing.

Sew your pocket from row 6 to row 12 like

the Picture.

CANDY 1:

With Pink:

1. Chain 42, leave 2, 40 DC : 41 DC,

finish and leave dec long yarntail for

sewing.

With White:

1. Chain 34, leave 2, 32 DC : 33 DC,

finish it.

For stick part.

1. Make 6 sc in Magic ring : 6 sc,

2-8. 6 sc, (7 rows) Finish with slip stich

and leave dec long yarntail for sewing.

Put your two part together and make roll

like the Picture. Sew your candy to stick.

Wrap dec piece of White yarn to sewing

point and hide the yarntail.

CANDY 2:

Start with yellow:

1. 6 sc in Magic ring : 6 sc,

2. 6 İNC : 12 sc,

3. ( 1 sc, 1 İNC ) x 6 : 18 sc,

4. ( 2 sc, 1 İNC ) x 6 : 24 sc,

5-8. 24 sc, ( 4 Rows)

9.. ( 2 sc, 1 DEC ) x 6 : 18 sc,

10. ( 1 sc, 1 DEC ) x 6 : 12 sc,

11. 6 DEC : 6 sc, fill your candy.

Change color to white,

12-18. 6 sc, (7 Rows)

19. Close your stick with needle and hide

the yarn. Wrap dec piece of pink yarn to

sewing point and hide the yarntail. Make

little points on the candy like the Picture.

SEWING NOTES:

 If you sew arms before sew head this

will be easier. Sew the arms to row

34-35.

 With dec few black or blue yarn make

little eyebrows on row 17 like the

picture.

 Make the nose with skin color yarn

between row 22. And row 23. Leave 2

hole.

 With dec few skin color yarn make

eyelash like the Picture.

 Sew your suspender’s back side like

the pictures.

 Use some blusher for cheeks and top of her nose.

 Add your hair from top to row 8.

 Make 2 braid on front side of hair like

the Picture. You can make little braids

other side of the hair too. Cut your

dolls hair with dec scissor and shape like me.

 You can dress your Amanda doll and

also add glasses. Your Amanda doll is ready.

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Abbreviations (vs US Symbol Definition) :

CH = Chain Stitch (CH)

X = Single Crochet (SC)

V = SC at indicated stitch 2 times (Single Crochet Increase)

A = Crochet together 2 SC (Single Crochet Decrease)

T = HDC (Half Double Crochet)

TV = HDC at indicated stitch 2 times (HDC Increase)

TA = Crochet together 2 HDC (HDC Decrease)

F = Double Crochet (DC)

FV = DC at indicated stitch 2 times (DC Increase)

FA = Crochet together 2 DC (DC Decrease)

S = slst = Slip Stitch

W = sc3tog= SC next 3 stitches together at a time

M = Crochet together 3 SC

* = repeat

E = Treble crochet (TR)

(This pattern may not use all above Abbreviations . Providing for your future use)

Materials :

Yarn ex005 (White, Skin color, Navy/dark Blue, Blue, Pink, Light Pink, Red,

Yellow).

 Organic cotton yarn (purple)

Supporting

Materials : Button (5mm), cotton, Aluminum wire

Tools : Hooks (1.25mm, 1.5mm, 1.75mm), sewing needle, cutter, glue, powder blush

Arm x 2 (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 Thumb – (White color) Loop 4X 4

2 4X 4

1 Palm – (White) Loop 5 5

2 5V 5

3 – 4 10X 10

5 10X. Connecting to Thumb 4X 14

6 (XA)*4, 2X 10

7 (Skin color) Back-loop 10X

(White color) Front-loop (per need) *4, 2X, End yarn 10

8 – 19 (Skin Color) 10X 10

Body (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 8CH, reverse, at 2nd hole, 6X, W, 5X, V 16

2 V, 5X, 3V, 5X, 2V 22

3 X, V, 5X, 3(XV), 5X, 2(XV) 28

4 9X, A, M, A, 12X 24

5 (White) 7X, A, M, A, 8X, A 19

6 5X, A, M, A, 7X 15

7 6X, A, 7X 14

8 – 10 14X 14

11-22 (Skin Color) 14X 14

23 Combine both legs with 3CH in between 34

24-25 34X 34

26 (White) 6X, A, 15X, A, 9X 32

27 (6X, A)*4 28

28-37 28X 28

38 7X, connect to arm 10X, 14X, connect to arm, 10X, 7X 48

39 (XA)*16 32

40 (Skin Color), (2X, A)*8 24

41 12A 12

42-43 12X 12

Head (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 Loop with 6 stitches 6

2 6V 12

3 (X, V)*6 18

4 (2X, V)*6 24

5 (3X, V)*6 30

6 (4X, V)*6 36

7 (5X, V)*6 42

8 (6X, V)*6 48

9 (7X, V)*6 54

10 (8X, V)*6 60

11 (9X, V)*6 66

12-25 66X 66

26 (4XA)*6 30

27 (8X, A)*6 54

28 (7X, A)*6 48

29 (6X, A)*6 42

30 (5X, A)*6 36

31 (4X, A)*6 30

32 (3X, A)*6 24

33 (2X, A)*6 18

34 (X, A)*6 12 Placing eyes between 19-21

Ear x 2 (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 (Skin Color) Loop 5X 5

2 Left Ear (2T,2TV,T) , Right Ear (T,2TV,2T) 7 each Place ears

between 22-23

3

Shoes (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 Soles of Shoes (Navy Blue) 9CH, reverse, at 2nd

hole, 7X,W,6X,V

18

2 V,6X,3V,6X,2V 24

3 X,V,6X,3(XV),6X,2(XV) 30

4 Back-Post 30X (outsole of shoes )

Note: photos in this page are added by translator

to ease your understanding. Please ignore yarn

color that used in these photos

30

1 Shoes head (White color) 9X 9

2 (XA)*3 6

3 3A 3

Shoes head(toes) , re-start from left to right with

7X. This line with back facing out

7

1 (Back Loop) – turn, at 2nd hole, 6X on shoe head

(white area), 21X on shoe body, 1X back to shoe

head

28

2 5X,A,19X,A 26

3 5X,A,17X,A 24

4 5X,A,5X,5T,5X,A 22

5 5X (stitch on shoe head) 5

Insert a cardboard paper in the shoes, add

shoelace accordingly

outsole of shoes

Photo 1

(step 1-3)

Start from left to

right with 7x on top

of white area

4

Shirt (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 (White ) 21 CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 20X 20

2 (Front- loop) A,16X,A 18

3 (XV)*9 27

4 (XV)*9 36

5 (3XV)*9 45

6 6X,4CH, skip 10 holes, 13X, 4CH, skip 10 holes, 6X 33

7 – 13 33X 33

1 Sleeves, 16X 16

Left placket, from bottom up , 2X, 2CH, 3X, 2CH, 2X

Right placket, stitch one row of X, add buttons which

corresponding to left CH locations

1 Bowknot, 10CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 9X 9

2 – 9 9X 9

Bowknot’s knot at center, 5CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 4X 4

Combine both Bowknot and knot , then, place it at left

placket most upper part

Bib Pants 1 (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 Trousers leg, (Blue) Loop 20X 20

2 – 3 20X 20

Make two trousers legs

4 Combine both trousers legs, 40X 40

5 – 9 40X 40

10 (8T,TA)*4 36

1 Belt, 34CH, turn, at 5th hole, 30X. Sew at back of pants, Use

white yarn to sew pants lines. Add buttons at front of pants

T-Shirt (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 (Yellow) 24CH, make a circle, (7x,V)*3 27

2 (Front- Loop), (2X,V)*9 36

3 (3X,V)*9 45

4 (Pink), (14X,V)*3 48

5 7X,4CH, skip 10 holes, 14X, 4CH, skip 10 holes, 7X 36

6 – 14 36X 36 5

T-Shirt (continues) (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 Sleeves, (Pink), 16X 16

2 (Yellow), 16X 16

Left placket, from bottom up, 2X, (2CH, X) *3

Right placket, stitch one row of X, add buttons which

corresponding to left CH locations

Bib Jean Pants 2 (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 Trousers leg, (Blue) 21CH, make a circle, 21X 21

2 21X 21

3 Front-Loop, 21X 21

4 – 7 21X 21

8 Make two trousers legs, combine both legs, 42X 42

9 -15 42X, end yarn 42

16 Following in piece form, at front of pants, 15X 15

17 – 19 15X 15

20 A,11X,A 13

21 Adding buttons at both left & right end

Belt, 24CH, turn, at 5th hole, 20X 20

1 Pocket, 8CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 7X 7

2 – 3 7X 7

Sew pocket & Belts to pants accordingly. Use white yarn to

sew pants lines

Hairs (Hook 1.75mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 (Purple) 11CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 10X 10

2 – 9 3S, 8CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 10X 10

10 3S, 28CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 30X 30

11 – 27 10S, 21CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 30X 30

1- Iron hairs 2- use one yarn to stitch

across hairs 3- pull both ends of yarn

PooPoo, spiral type without cotton filled (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 (Pink) Loop 4X 4

2 3X, W 6

3 6V 12

4 – 5 12X 12

6 X,A*4 8

7 Front- Loop, 6X,W,X 10

8 10V 20

9 – 10 20X 20

11 (XA)*6, A 13

12 Front-Loop, 9X,W,3X 15

13 15V 30

14 – 15 30X 30

16 (3X,A)*6 24

17 (2X,A)*6 18

18 (X,A)*6 12

19 A*6 6

Hat (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 (Pink), Loop 7X 7

2 7V 14

3 (X, V)*7 21

4 (2X, V)*7 28

5 (3X, V)*7 35

6 (4X, V)*7 42

7 (5X, V)*7 49

8 (6X, V)*7 56

9 (7X, V)*7 63

10 – 16 63X 63

7

Hat – continue (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

Lip, in Piece Form

Go to cap front, center of round #16, pick 8 holes

(refer chart below)

1 2V, 4X, 2V, S 12

2 4V,4X,4V, (skip 1 hole at cap round#16) S 20

3 (Red), 20X, (skip 1 hole at cap round#16) S 20

4 (V,2X)*3,2X,(2X,V)*3, (skip 1 hole at cap round#16) S 26

5 26X, (skip 1 hole at cap round#16) S 26

6 (White), 26X, (skip 1 hole at cap round#16) S 26

Hat – continue (Hook 1.25mm)

Round Details Total Stitches Remarks

1 Left Wing, Loop 7X 7

2 5CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 4X, S to round#1, 2nd hole 4

3 3S(on round#2) , 3CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 5X, S to

round #1, 3rd hole

5

4 3S(on round#3) , 4CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 6X, S to

round #1, 4th hole

6

1 Right Wing, Loop 7X 7

2 7CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 6X, S to round#1, 2nd hole 6

3 4S(on round#2) , 2CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 5X, S to

round #1, 3rd hole

5

4 3S(on round#3) , 2CH, turn, at 2nd hole, 4X, S to

round #1, 4th hole

4

make 1 & ½ circle for both frames

author Olga Zimina

Creative Studio Olga Zimina

January 2020

ABBREVATİONS

CH – chain

SC – single crochet

SL-ST SLİP STİTCH

İNC increase

Dec decrease

Materials:

1. Yarn Jeans 160 / 50g beige, brown, white,

black and turquoise (or any other) colors.

Can be replaced with acrylic yarn of similar thickness.

2. Eyes on 6mm safety mount

3. For hearts: a little pink plush yarn

colors, for a little little pink jeans yarn

colors.

4. Filler for toys

5. Hook No. 1.75 or 2

All parts fit in a spiral. We do not do offset loops,

unless indicated in the description.

The toy is on its own.

Fill the details as you knit.

When using the recommended materials, you will knit

16 cm toy

My groups on social networks:

Creative Studio Olga Zimina

January 2020

Head:

1.6 sc into magic ring

2. 6İNC (12)

3. (sc, İNC) * 6 (18)

4. (2sc, İNC) * 6 (24)

5. (3sc, İNC) * 6 (30)

6. (4sc, İNC) * 6 (36)

7. (5sc, İNC) * 6 (42)

8.-14. 42sc (7 rows) from the 14th row we knit hair color (I have

brown)

Eyes inserted between 11 and 12 rows, the distance between

eyes of 5 loops.

15. (DEC, 5sc) * 6 (36) Next, we knit on the back

16. (DEC, 4sc) * 6 (30)

17. (DEC, 3sc) * 6 (24)

18. (DEC, 2sc) * 6 (18)

19. (DEC, sc) * 6 (12)

20.6DEC

For the left p / p we knit hair:

Dial 25 ch and knit 24 sl-st; retreat 3 p / p and for

The 4th p / p again we knit 25 ch and 24sl-st. Thus knit on

the whole head.

Ears:

6sc into magic ring, sl-st Sew ears to the head.

Legs (2pcs):

1.Set the chain of 5ch, from the second loop from the hook: 3sc, 4sc in

last loop, on the other side 2sc, İNC

2.İNC, 2sc, 4İNC, 3sc, İNC (17)

3.sc, İNC, 3sc, 6İNC, 5sc, İNC (25)

4.2sc, İNC, 3sc, (sc, İNC) * 6.7sc (32)

5. Behind the back of the hinge: 32sc

6.-7. 32sc

9.11sc, 6DEC, 9sc (26)

10.7sc, 6DEC, 7sc (20) Change the thread color

11.8sc, 2DEC, 8sc (18)

12.8sc, DEC of 3sc, 7sc (16)

13.16sc Fill the shoe.

14.-18. 16sc (we knit in stripes, alternating black (or gray) and

white colors)

19.-25. White: 16sc (7 rows)

We fill the legs tight enough, in the middle of the foot you can

drag in the middle for greater stability.

Tie the soles of the shoes with a crawfish step.

Having connected the second leg, we do not cut the thread, but continue to knit

torso.

We do 5ch and join the second leg.

Torso:

1.164sc along the leg, 5sc along the chain of ch, 16sc along the second leg,

5sc in chain (42)

2.-4. 42sc

5. (12sc, DEC) * 3 (39)

6. 39sc

7. (11sc, DEC) * 3 (36)

8. (10sc, DEC) * 3 (33)

9. (9sc, DEC) * 3 (30)

10. 30sc Change the thread to the color of the dress and continue to knit:

11. (8sc, DEC) * 3 (27)

12.27sc

13. Behind the rear p / p: 27sc

14.-17. 27sc (4 rows)

18. (7sc, DEC) * 3 (24)

19. (2sc, DEC) * 6 (18) Fill

20. (sc, DEC) * 6 (12) Change the thread to body:

21.-23. 12sc (neck) (we knit the 21st row behind the back half-back)

24. 6DEC

Fill the neck very tight with a pencil or stick

for sushi.

Dress skirt:

1.for left p / p we knit 27 İNC from hdc (54)

2.-8. 54 hdc (7 rows)

9. behind the front p / p: (3ch, sc) * 54

White thread for the items left: (5ch, sc) * 54

We knit a collar with a white thread for the items left in the 21st row:

3ch, dc to the same loop, İNC from dc, 2hdc, sc, 2İNC, sc, 2hdc, 2İNC

from dc. Embroider an imitation fastener with the same thread.

Pens (2pcs):

1. start with flesh color: 6sc into magic ring

2. (İNC, 2sc) * 2 (8)

3.-6. 8sc Change the color to the color of the dress:

7.8sc

8.-9. behind the rear p / p: 8sc

10.-19. 8sc (10 rows) Do not fill!

20. For both sides of knitting: 4sc

For the items left in the 8th row with a white thread: (5ch, sc) * in a circle

For dresses left in the 9th row in the color of the dress: (3ch, sc) * in a circle

Sew handles to the body. Fix the head with a long needle

and sew to the body.

Heart:

1.6c into magic ring

2. 6İNC (12)

3. (sc, İNC) * 6 (18)

4. (2sc, İNC) * 6 (24)

5. 24sc Tie two parts, do not cut the thread from the second part,

continue to knit.

6. join the second part and knit 24 sc on it,

24sc for the first part (48) (here is the beginning of the row)

7. (DEC, 22sc) * 2 (46)

8. DEC, 19sc, 2DEC, 19sc (42)

9.42sc

10. (5sc, DEC) * 6 (36)

11. (4sc, DEC) * 6 (30)

12. (8sc, DEC) * 3 (27)

13. (7sc, DEC) * 3 (24)

14. (2sc, DEC) * 6 (18)

15. (sc, DEC) * 6 (12)

16.12sc Fill the heart

17.6DEC

18. 3DEC

Valentine is ready!

Creative Studio Olga Zimina

3January 2020

• Sock weight yarn in dark green, light green,

white, red, light peach, brown

• Black yarn or embroidery thread

• 2.5mm crochet hook

• A pair of 8mm black safety eyes

• One 6mm red round button

• Polyester fiberfill for stuffing

• Yarn needle

• Sewing needle

• Sewing thread in red

• Scissors

• Stitch markers

• Pearl headed pins

Terminology [US]

magic ring

ch (chain)

st (stitch)

sc (single crochet)

hdc (half double crochet)

dc (double crochet)

inc (increase)

dec (decrease)

FLO (front loop only)

sl st (slip stitch)

SIZE: 27 cm [without her hat] when made

with the indicated yarn

DIFFICULTY: Intermediate

Special Notes

Color Change

This pattern requires color changes to make stripes.

For a seamless color change, follow these steps:

While working on the last stitch of the round, just

before you make the color change, make a single

crochet stitch as usual by inserting hook in the stitch

and pull up a loop. Now instead of pulling the same

yarn through the two remaining loops on your hook,

complete the stitch by pulling the new color through

the loops. In the first stitch of the next round, instead

of making a single crochet stitch, slip stitch with the

new color. Now make single crochet stitches in each

of the remaining stitches of the round. Work on the

next round as usual.

Instructions

BOOT & LEG [make 2]

Start with dark green yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. [6]

Rnd 2-3: sc around. [6]

Rnd 4: inc X 6. [12]

Rnd 5: sc around. [12]

Rnd 6: (inc, sc 2) X 4. [16]

Rnd 7: sc around. [16]

Rnd 8: (dec, sc 2) X 4. [12]

Rnd 9-10: sc around. [12]

ch 1, turn. Next, we will work on the heel.

Heel

Row 1-3: sc 7, ch 1, turn. [7]

Row 4: sc 7. Mark the last stitch worked. [7]

From here on, we go back to working in the round.

Rnd 11: Working along the row end, sc 4; sc 5 on

the front of the shoe, sc 4 along the other row end

[Pic 1-4]. [13]

Rnd 12: Fold the shoe as shown in Pic 5. Starting

from the marked st [Pic 6], sc in all 13 st. [13]

Rnd 13: sc around. [13] The shoe should now look

like the sample shown in Pic 7.

Rnd 14: dec, sc 11. [12]

Join red yarn.

Rnd 15: sc around. [12]

Sew the gap at the heel closed.

Rnd 16-29: sc around. [12]

Stuff as you go.

Rnd 30: (dec, sc 4) X 2. [10]

Rnd 31-45: sc around. [10]

Starting from the last stitch worked, count counterclockwise and mark the 5th stitch.

Fasten off. Stuff leg lightly, leaving the last 4-5

rounds unstuffed.

Make the second leg and stuff but do not fasten

off. We will continue working on this leg and join it

with the other leg in the next round.

BODY

Rnd 1: ch 4; starting from the marked st of the first

leg [Pic 8], sc 10, sc in the next 4 ch [Pic 9], sc in all

10 st of the second leg [Pic 10]. [24 st + 4 ch]

Rnd 2: sc in the loops of the next 4 ch [Pic 11], sc in

the remaining 24 st. [28]

Rnd 3-5: sc around. [28]

Join dark green yarn.

Rnd 6-7: sc around. [28]

Join light green yarn.

Rnd 8: sc around. [28]

Rnd 9: (sc 5, dec) X 4. [24]

Switch to dark green yarn.

Rnd 10-11: sc around. [24]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 12-13: sc around. [24]

Switch to dark green yarn, fasten off light green

yarn.

Rnd 14: sc around. [24]

Rnd 15: (sc 4, dec) X 4. [20]

Rnd 16: (sc 3, dec) X 4. [16]

Stuff the body. While stuffing, bend the legs

forward at the point where the legs and the body

meet so no stuffing passes through the top portion

of the legs [Pic 12]. This is to ensure that the upper

legs remain floppy, which will make it possible for

the doll to sit.

Join light peach yarn, fasten off dark green yarn.

Rnd 17: (sc 2, dec) X 4. [12]

Rnd 18: (sc, dec) X 4. [8]

Rnd 19-25: sc around. [8]

Stuff the neck firmly. It is very important to stuff

the neck as firmly as possible at this point so it can

support the weight of the head.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Using your

yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the front

loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight, closing

off the neck. Weave in the yarn end.

BOOT CUFF [make 2]

With white yarn, ch 17.

Row 1: Starting from the 4th ch from the hook, dc in

all 14 ch. [14]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Wrap the

cuff around Rnd 15 of the leg and sew the row ends

together. Secure to the leg with a few tacks.

ARM [make 2]

Start with light peach yarn.

Rnd 1: 7 sc in a magic ring. [7]

Rnd 2-4: sc around. [7]

Join light green yarn; fasten off light peach yarn.

Rnd 5-22: sc around. [7]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff

the arms.

Press the top of the arm flat and sew it closed. Pin

arms on Rnd 15 of the body and sew them in place.

SKIRT

Ch 28 with light green yarn. sl st in the first ch to make

a ring. [Note: Leave a long tail at the beginning of the

chain to use for sewing the skirt onto the body later.]

Rnd 1: ch 1, hdc around. [28]

Work in continuous spirals from the next round

onwards.

Rnd 2: sc inc X 28. [56]

Rnd 3: (sc 6, inc) X 8. [64]

Rnd 4-8: sc around. [64]

Rnd 9: (sc 6, dec) X 8. [56]

Rnd 10: (sl st in the next st, ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch

from the hook, sc in the next st) X 28.

Fasten off. Weave in the yarn ends.

Slip the skirt from the top of the body and position it

around Rnd 6. Hold it in place with pearl headed pins

and sew in place.

HEAD

Work with light peach yarn.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in a magic ring. [8]

Rnd 2: inc X 8. [16]

Rnd 3: (sc, inc) X 8. [24]

Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) X 8. [32]

Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) X 8. [40]

Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) X 8. [48]

Rnd 7-17: sc around. [48]

Rnd 18: (sc 4, dec) X 8. [40]

Rnd 19: (sc 3, dec) X 8. [32]

Rnd 20: (sc 2, dec) X 8. [24]

Insert 8mm eyes between Rnd 13 & 14, 7 stitches apart.

Rnd 21: dec X 12. [12]

Stuff head, leaving some space in the center for the

neck that will be inserted later.

Rnd 22: (sc 4, dec) X 2. [10]

Fasten off. Weave in the yarn end.

Shape face: Thread a yarn needle with light peach

yarn. Insert needle from the opening at the base of

the head, bring it out from Point A next to the eye [Pic

13]. Push the needle back in from Point B and out from

Point C close to the next eye [Pic 14]. Push it in from

Point D, bringing it out from Point A again [Pic 15].

Gently squish the eyes together with your fingers and

carefully pull the yarn to bring the eyes closer. While

holding this shape, push the needle back in from Point

B and out from Point C [Pic 16]. Push it in from Point

D, and bring it out from the opening at the base of

the head [Pic 17]. Gently pull both the yarn ends and

tie them together to hold the shape [Pic 18]. Clip off

excess yarn and push the yarn ends inside the head.

Embroider eye details: With white yarn, sew a

crescent shape around the outer edge of the eyes [Pic

19-20]. With black yarn or embroidery thread, sew

eyelashes [Pic 21-23]

WIG

Work with brown yarn.

Rnd 1-15: Follow instructions for Head.

Fasten off leaving a very long tail. We will use this

tail to embroider bangs on the forehead.

HAIR

Slip the wig on the

head; make sure the

yarn tail is positioned

above the left eye.

Using pearl headed

pins, mark the area on

the forehead where

the bangs will be

embroidered as shown

in Pic 24. Weave the

yarn tail around these

pins to create a zigzag

outline for the bangs

that will cover the

entire right side of the forehead [Pic 25]. Now we

will start embroidering hair, one cluster at a time.

With your yarn needle, make a stitch on the

hairpiece at the end of the zigzag outline [Pic 26].

Do not take out the pins yet; we will need them

to hold the outline. Next, make another stitch

on the pointed end of the outline; make sure the

needle goes beneath the yarn that serves as your

outline and through one stitch on the head [Pic

27]. Make another stitch at exactly the same spot,

using the same technique, to hold the pointed

end of the outline in place. Sew your next stitch

on the hairpiece [Pic 28]. Continue embroidering

slanted lines, starting at the pointed end of the

zigzag and ending at the edge of the hairpiece until

the outline for the first bang is covered [Pic 29-30].

Continue until you cover the entire right side of the

forehead [Pic 31-33]. Similarly, create an outline

with pearl headed pins on the left side of the

forehead and embroider the bangs [Pic 34]. Secure

the wig with a few tacks at the back of the head.

BRAID [make 2]

Cut eight 15-inch long stands of brown yarn, fold

them in half. Take another strand of brown yarn,

equal in length to the other stands, wrap it around

the fold line and use it to tie the other strands

together [Pic 35]. Divide the strands into three

equal sections and braid them [Pic 36-37]. Tie off

the end and clip off excess yarn. Thread a yarn

needle with brown yarn and sew the braids on the

head [Pic 38].

JOIN HEAD TO BODY

Note: This head-body joining technique ensures

that the head of your amigurumi is movable.

Thread a yarn needle with brown yarn and insert

the needle from the top of the head and out

from the neck opening. Now insert your needle

through the base of the neck [between Rnd 18 &

19 of the body], back through the neck opening

on the head, bringing it out again from the top of

the head. Slide the head down the two strands of

yarn until it sits perfectly on the neck. Knot the

yarn ends together a few times to secure. Clip off

excess yarn and carefully push remaining yarn

back into the head. See Pic 39 for reference.

CAPELET

Ch 31 with white yarn.

Row 1: Starting from the 6th ch from the hook, sc

6, 3 sc in the next ch, sc 12, 3 sc in the next ch, sc

6, ch 1, turn. [30]

Join light green yarn.

Row 2: sc 6, inc, sc, inc, sc 12, inc, sc, inc, sc 6, ch

1, turn. [34]

Switch to white yarn, fasten off light green yarn.

Row 3: sc across, turn. [34]

Row 4: ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook, sc in

the next st, (sl st in the next st, ch 3, sl st in the 3rd

ch from the hook, sc in the next st) X 16.

Fasten off. Weave in the yarn ends.

Sew a 6mm red button on Row 1 of the capelet

[see Pic 40 for placement]. Wrap it around the

shoulders and slip the button through the 5-ch

button-hole.

HAT

Start with white yarn.

Ribbed band

Row 1: Ch 4. Starting from the second ch from the

hook, sc 3, ch 1, turn. [3]

Row 2-46: FLO sc 3, ch 1, turn. [3]

Row 47: FLO sc 3, ch 1. [3]

Now we will work along the row end to even out

the edges.

Row 48: sc along the row end, making 1 sc per row

[Pic 41]. [46]

Next, we will join the band and work in continuous

spirals.

Join light green yarn.

Rnd 1: sc in the first sc to join [Pic 42]. Continue

working sc in the remaining 45 st. [46]

Rnd 2: sc around. [46]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 3: (sc 21, dec) X 2. [44]

Rnd 4: (sc 20, dec) X 2. [42]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 5: (sc 5, dec) X 6. [36]

Rnd 6: sc around. [36]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 7: (sc 4, dec) X 6. [30]

Rnd 8: (sc 3, dec) X 6. [24]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 9: (sc, dec) X 8. [16]

Rnd 10: sc around. [16]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 11-12: sc around. [16]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 13-14: sc around. [16]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 15: (sc 6, dec) X 2. [14]

Rnd 16: sc around. [14]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 17-18: sc around. [14]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 19-20: sc around. [14]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 21: (sc 5, dec) X 2. [12]

Rnd 22: sc around. [12]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 23-24: sc around. [12]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 25-26: sc around. [12]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 27: (sc 4, dec) X 2. [10]

Rnd 28: sc around. [10]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 29-30: sc around. [10]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 31-32: sc around. [10]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 33: (sc 3, dec) X 2. [8]

Rnd 34: sc around. [8]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 35-36: sc around. [8]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 37-38: sc around. [8]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 39: (sc 2, dec) X 2. [6]

Rnd 40: sc around. [6]

Switch to light green yarn.

Rnd 41-42: sc around. [6]

Switch to white yarn.

Rnd 43-44: sc around. [6]

Switch to light green yarn; fasten off white yarn.

Rnd 45: inc X 6. [12]

Rnd 46: (sc, inc) X 6. [18]

Rnd 47: (sc 2, inc) X 6. [24]

Rnd 48-49: sc around. [24]

Rnd 50: (sc 2, dec) X 6. [18]

Rnd 51: (sc, dec) X 6. [12]

Stuff only the ‘pom pom’, not the stem of the hat.

Rnd 52: dec X 6. [6]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Using

your yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the

front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight,

closing off the gap. Weave in the yarn ends.

Sew together Row 1 and Row 47 of the ribbed

band and weave in the yarn end. Place the hat

on the head and shape the stem of the hat as per

your liking.

Congratulations!

Your Trixie Jollybum is now ready.

– Kartopu baby soft acrylic yarn (100g / 300m). For Kristal kartopu clothes

(100g / 450m) or any other under your hook, given that for clothing

yarn should be thinner than for the body.

– hooks No. 1.75, No. 2.00 and No. 1.1 or any other under your

yarn.

– long needle for tightening

– strong threads for tighteners in the color of yarn or dental floss

– filler

– Clay Crystal Moment, or other transparent glue, as you used to

work

– Eyes (0.8 cm – 1 cm.), Or half beads, cilia

– a little white felt (for eye protein)

– dry shadows and blush for toning.

– A small piece of wire to strengthen the head.

– elastic bands – hairpieces (2-3pcs)

– decoration to create your image.

With my materials, the kids get 30 cm, excluding hair.

 And of course, desire and good mood)))))

Abbreviation/US terminology:

ch – chain

sc- single crochet

dc – double crochet

inc- increase

dec- decrease

sl-st- slip-stitch

n – loop

V – in one loop – 1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc

Head

1 p -6 sc into magic ring

2 p – inc x 6 times = 12sc

3 p – (1sc, inc) * 6 times = 18 sc

4 p – (2 sc, inc) * 6 times = 24 sc

5 p – (3 sc, inc) * 6 times = 30 sc

6 p – (4 sc, inc) * 6 times = 36 sc

7 p – (5 sc, inc) * 6 times = 42 sc

8 p – (6sc, inc) * 6 times = 48 sc

9 p – (7sc, inc) * 6 times = 54 sc

10 -11 p. 54 sc

12 p – (8sc, inc) * 6 times = 60 sc

13-19 r. 60 sc

20 p- 13sc, inc, (2sc, inc) * 11 times, 13sc = 72 sc

21-29 r. 72 sc

30 p – (10sc, dec) * 6 times = 66 sc

31p – (9sc, dec) * 6 times = 60 sc

32 p – (8sc, dec) * 6 times = 54 sc

33 p – (7sc, dec) * 6 times = 48 sc

34 p – (6sc, dec) * 6 times = 42 sc

35 p- (2sc, dec) * 10 times, 2sc = 32 sc

36 p- (1dec, 2 sc) * 8 times = 24sc

37p – (2sc, dec) * 6 times = 18 sc

Leave the thread for sewing.

Legs

Start with a white thread

Dial the chain from 7ch, start with the second loop.

1 p- inc, 4sc, 4sc in one loop, 4sc, inc – 16sc

2 p- sc, inc, 4 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc, inc, sc – 22sc

3 p – 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, (1sc, inc) * 4 times, 4sc, inc, 2 sc – 28sc

4 p- 3 sc, inc, 4 sc, (2 sc, inc) * 4 times, 4sc, inc, 3sc – 34sc

5 p – 2 inc, 14 sc, 2inc, 16 sc – 38 sc

Cut out the insole.

6 p – 38 sc for the back half-loop. At the end of the row, make offset loops in order to

the marker was in the center of the heel. Tear off the thread and attach the gray thread.

Knit the top of the shoes.

7 -8 p. 38 sc (Using the displacement loop, end in the middle of the heel)

Insert insole

9 p – 10 sc, (1hdc, dec of hdc) * 6 times, 10 sc-32 sc

10 p – 10 sc (dec of hdc) * 6 times, 10sc – 26 sc

11p – we knit for the front half loops, (2 sc, dec) * 6 times, 2 sc -20 sc

We break off the thread and hide it.

We begin to knit a sock. Attach a white thread and knit for loose half-loops 11

a number of

12 p- (2 sc, dec) * 6 times, 2 sc-20sc

13p.20sc

14p – we knit for the front half loops, dec, 16 sc, dec – 18 sc

Break and hide the thread.

Attach the bodily thread to the free half loops of the 15th row.

15 p – dec, 16 sc, dec – 18 sc

16-21r. 18sc

22p – (5sc, inc) * 3 times – 21 sc

23-33 p. 21 sc

Break and hide the thread.

Tie the top of the sock behind the front walls, adding a finer white thread and

knit 1.75 as follows: (in one loop sc, 2ch, sc) * to the end of the row

Similarly, we knit the second leg.

The connection of the legs and body

We begin to knit with the left leg. We put the legs a little toe, attach the thread

flesh-colored to the left leg, gaining 6 vp and attach to the right foot with

sc, put the marker.

34p – Knit on the right foot 21sc, 6inc on the chain, knit 21 sc on the left foot, 6sc on

chain -60sc

35p – 60sc

36p – (8sc, dec) * 6 times -54sc

37 – 45r – 54sc

46p -10sc, dec, 26sc, dec, 14sc -52sc

47 -49 RUR 52sc

50p – 10sc, dec, 24sc, dec, 14sc – 50sc

51p – 50sc

52p – (8sc, dec) * 5 times – 45sc

53-57r. 45sc

58p – (7sc, dec) * 5 times – 40sc

59 – 60. 40sc

61p – (6sc, dec) * 5 times – 35sc

62 – 65 p. 35sc

66p – (5sc, dec) * 5 times – 30sc

67 – 69 p. 30sc

70r – (4sc, dec) * 5 times – 25sc

71-73 RUR 25sc

74p – (3sc, dec) * 5 times -20sc

75p – dec, 10sc, dec, 6 sc -18sc

76 -77r. 18sc

Fasten and hide the thread.

We crochet fingers and a brush with a hook No. 1.75

1r. – Big, pinky.

1 p. – 5 sc into magic ring

2-3 p. 5 sc

Fasten, break, hide the thread.

2. Nameless, middle, index.

1 p. – 5 sc into magic ring

2-4 p. 5 sc

At four fingers, fasten, break, hide the thread. The index thread does not

to break off.

Left hand

Continue to crochet number 1.75

1 p. -2 sc index, 3 sc middle, 2 sc nameless, 5 sc little finger, 3 sc

nameless, 2 sc middle, 3 sc index – 20sc

2 p. – 20 sc

3 p. – 1 sc, 2 sc to knit together with 2 sc of the thumb, 17 sc – 20sc

4 p. – 1 sc, 3 sc of the thumb, 17 sc – 21sc

5 – 6 p. 21 sc

7 p. – (2 sc, 1 dec) * 4 times, 3 sc, 1 dec – 16sc

8 p. – 16 sc

From row 9 we change the hook to number 2

9 p. – (1 inc, 2 sc) * 5 times, 1 sc – 21sc

10 – 17 p. 21 sc

18 p. – 10 sl-st, 11 sc -21sc

19 p. – 10 sl-st, 5 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc -22sc

20 -31 p. 22 sc.

32 p. – (2 sc, 1 dec) * 5 times, 2 sc – 17sc

33 p. – 17 sc

34 p. – (1 dec, 1 sc) * 5 times, 2 sc – 12sc

35 p. -6 dec – 6sc

To thread, cut and hide the thread.

Right hand.

Crochet number 1.75

1 p. – 3 sc index, 2 sc middle, 3 sc nameless, 5 sc pinky, 2 sc

nameless, 3 sc middle, 2 sc index – 20sc

2 p. – 20 sc

3 p. – 17 sc, 2 sc knit together with 2 sc thumb, 1 sc – 20sc

4 p. – 17 sc, 3 sc on the outside of the thumb, 1 sc -21sc

5 – 6 p. 21 sc

7 p. (2 sc, 1 dec) * 2 times, 1 sc, (2 sc, 1 dec) * 3 times – 16sc

8 p. -16 sc

From row 9 we change the hook to number 2

9 p. – (1 inc, 2 sc) * 5 times, 1 sc – 21sc

10 – 17 p. 21 sc

18 p. – 11sc, 10 sl-st. – 21sc

19 p. – 5 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 10 sl-st -22sc

20 – 31 row – 22 sc

32 p. – (2 sc, 1 dec) * 5 times, 2 sc – 17sc

33 p. -17 sc

34 p. – (1 dec, 1 sc) * 5 times, 2 sc – 12sc

35 p. – 6 dec – 6sc

Fasten, cut and hide the thread.

Assembly and design

To fasten the head to the body, cut off the 18cm wire. Wrap the ends with a band-aid

or electrical tape. Insert it into the body, stick your head in and sew your head in a circle, doing

half-loop stitch of the neck and half-loop of the head.

Hands holding

We go down from the beginning of the neck in 6 rows and sew the arms with thread fastening.

lightness, you can at the beginning go through the body with a needle several times, making a deepening

for hands, and then sew the hands with a thread mount.

Eye sockets

We go down to the 20th row from the beginning of knitting the head, put a lilac pin, retreat 5

loops and set the blue pin. From the purple to the side, count 2 loops and

put the yellow pin, also, we retreat 2 loops from the blue and put the blue pin.

with the chin, parallel to the upper pins, set the red pins.

red pins 9-10 stitches.

We go with a needle into the red pin, while leaving a long end, we exit into

lilac pin, we sew a stitch on top, going into the yellow pin and exit

again into the red pin. We tighten the ends of the threads, tie them to 2 knots and hide in

head. Similarly make a weight loss and the other eye socket.

Nose and mouth

From the eye sockets we go down 3 rows and put a yellow pin.

yellow pins 1 loop, put in 2 loops, blue. From the top pins go down to 6

rows and set parallel to the top lilac and red pins.

We go into the yellow pin, leaving a long end, go out into the lilac pin, make a stitch

on the top, going into the red, and put it in the blue pin. The ends are pulled together, bandaged

into two nodes, we hide the ends in the head.

Nose

Dial two air loops and knit a fluffy column of 5 from the hook in the second

double crochet, then pull off the spout.

Sew the nose to the place of its weights. Cut the squirrels from felt and glue in place

eye sockets, then glue the pupils. You can embroider with one stitch under the eyes black

iris. We tint near the eyes, cheeks and mouth. Glue the cilia, dividing one into two

smooth parts with a toothpick.

Ears

Dial 3 air loops, in the third knit 6 dc, tighten a little and hide the ends. The ears

sew at eye level.

Hair clip

For hairstyles, I take these hairpieces-hairpieces and unzip them on tresl-sty. That would

the ends of the cut-off tsl-sts do not rip apart, it is necessary to lubricate them with glue or

colorless nail polish. For that, you need to twist a small piece of tresl-sta into

tight tail and, having sewed it firmly enough, sew in the center of the head.

We get down to the earlobes, with pins we fix the tsl-sts from ear to ear and

Sew in. So repeat row after row until we come to the tail.

Near the tail, we begin to sew in a circle of the head and so on until it closes completely

top of head.

We cut the bangs and remove the extra length over the entire hair growth.

Pantaloons

Crochet No. 1.75

V – dc, 2ch, dc in one loop

We collect a chain of 86ch and close in a ring.

1p -2 ch lift, (skip one V loop, 2ch skip one V loop) * to the end of the row, sl-st

2-10 p. 2 ch lift, (skip to one arch from ch V, 2 dc, to one arch from ch V) * to

end of row, sl-st

Divide the pants in half with the help of sl-st and then knit each pants separately.

11p – 2 ch lift, (skip into one arch from ch V, 2 dc, into one arch from ch V) * to

end of row, sl-st

12p -1 ch lift, sc in each loop to the end of the row

13p – 2 ch rise, 3dc in each loop to the end of the row.

Similarly, we knit the second pants.

We knit a chain of 80 ch and thread along the top of the trousers. Also we pass the ribbon

over ruffles on the bottom of pantaloons.

Dress

Let’s start crocheting 1.1

V – dc, 2ch, dc in one loop

Dial a chain of 35 ch, knit in rotary rows.

1 p – from the second loop from the hook: 5 sc, v, 5 sc, v, 10 sc, v, 5 sc, v, 5 sc – 42sc

2 p – 3ch, 6 dc, V, 7 dc, V, 12 dc, V, 7 dc, V, 6 dc – 54dc

3 p– 3ch, 7 dc, V, 9 inc dc, V, 14 dc, V, 9 inc dc, V, 7 dc – 80dc

4 p – 3ch, 8 dc, V, 20 dc, V, 16 dc, V, 20 dc, V, 8 dc – 88 dc

5 p – 3ch, 9 dc, 1 dc under the arch, 4 ch, skip 22 loops, 1 dc under the arch, 18 dc, 1 dc under

arch, 4 ch, skip 22 loops, 1 dc under the arch, 9 dc – 48dc

6 p – 3ch, 10 dc, 4 dc for ch, 20 dc, 4 dc for ch, 10 dc – 48dc

7p – 3ch, inc from dc to the end of the -96dc row

8p- 3ch, ((in one V loop), 2ch skip, (in one V loop)) * to the end of the row

9-13r. 3ch, ((into one arch from ch V), 2 dc skip, (into one arch from ch V)) * to the end

a number of

14p -3ch, ((in one loop 4 dc, skip one loop, 1sc, in one loop 4 dc)) * to

end of row

Sleeve

1-2 p .2ch, 32dc, sl-st

3p – 1ch, dec to the end of the row, sl-st

4p – 2ch, V to the end of the row

Tie sc sleeves with white thread.

Tie the dress on the fasteners, make loops and sew buttons. If your neck

dresses are a little large, during tying you can make decreases through 3 loops.

dress with ribbon, buttons and half beads.

Our baby is ready!

– Yarn (see page one for yarns I´ve used)

– 2,5 mm hook size or a size that fits your yarn

– 3 black 3 mm security eyes (one for the nose)

– Stuffing

– Scissors, tapestry needle, stitch marker and pins

– Felt for the eyes {instead of 3 mm eyes and felt

 you can use 6 or 8 mm security eyes or embroidery

 thread/yarn to sew the eyes}

Abbreviation/US terminology:

Links to some helpful videos on last page!

ch – chain

dc2tog – double crochet two together

dec – decrease

hdc – half double crochet

inc – increase

inc3 – 3 sc in one stitch

inc4 – 4 sc in one stitch

rnd(s) – round(s)

sc – single crochet

sc3tog – single crochet three together

sc4tog – single crochet four together

sc5tog – single crochet five together

slst – slip stitch

st – stitch

(…) – number in parentheses

indicates the number of

stitches at the end of the round

*…* – repeat instructions x times or to

 the end of the round

{…} – work the stitches all into the

same stitch

Notes:

– Do not join rounds, work in a continuous spiral unless otherwise stated.

– Change your yarn always in the last step of the last stitch.

– I mostly go up with a standing sc, hdc or dc instead of ch 1, ch 2 or ch 3. That looks much neater.

– Fasten off your work always with needle join and you´ll get a neat result.

– Stuff your amigurumi as you go. I use a chopstick for that!

– Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn to mark the beginning of a round.

– Deedee using the materials described is ~12.99 inches / 33 cm tall (with antlers).

 I would love to see your creations! Maybe you want to share them on

 Instagram using #kikalite

Head – yarn A – stuff the head as you go

Pay attention not to confuse 3 inc (three times

increase) with inc3 (three sc in one stitch). Same

with 4 inc and inc4! Crochet the sc4tog and sc5tog

stitches as tight as you can.

If you´re going to use a piece of felt for the eyes,

prepare it now. Cut out an oval shape (∼ 1,2 x 0,9

cm) and make a little hole in the middle with a

needle (see last page). Insert the 3 mm eye into that

hole and place them in the right position between

rnd 19 and 20.

rnd stitches

1 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

2 6 inc (12)

3 *1 sc, inc* 6x (18)

4 *1 sc, inc, 1 sc* 6x (24)

5 *3 sc, inc* 6x (30)

6 *2 sc, inc, 2 sc* 6x (36)

7 *inc, 5 sc* 6x (42)

8 4 sc, inc3, 12 sc, inc3, 6 sc,

inc3, 12 sc, inc3, 4 sc (50)

9 6 sc, inc3, 12 sc, inc3, 10 sc,

inc3, 12 sc, inc3, 6 sc (58)

10-15 (6 rnds) 58 sc (58)

16 22 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 22 sc (56)

17 21 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 21sc (54)

18 54 sc (54)

19 23 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 23 sc (52)

20 52 sc (52)

21 24 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 23 sc (50)

22 50 sc (50)

23 25 sc, inc4, 24 sc (53)

24 26 sc, 2 inc, 25 sc (55)

→ Insert the eye with the felt

between rnd 19 and 20. The

distance between the eyes

is 10 stitches (12 stitches distance if you don´t use felt).

25 27 sc, sc3tog, 25 sc (53)

26 26 sc, sc3tog, 24 sc (51)

27 25 sc, sc3tog, 23 sc (49)

28 23 sc, sc5tog, 21 sc (45)

→ Insert the nose between

rnd 24 and 25. You can also

sew a nose with embroidery

thread or a piece of yarn.

→ Now we do something

unusual, pay attention!

The last stitch of rnd 29, the

sc4tog, involves the first 2

stitches of rnd 30. After rnd

29 you have to move your

stitch marker to the next

stitch, this is your new

beginning! See pic below.

{The sc4tog and sc5tog

stitches have to be in the

centre, that’s why we change

for the next 3 rnds (rnd 29,

30 and 31) the beginning}.

Pay attention not to confuse

with the number in

parentheses. We count the

stitches after crocheting the

whole round!

29 dec, 2 sc, dec, 13 sc, *sc5tog*

 2x, 12 sc, dec, sc4tog (31)

→ You´ll have 3 stitches un-

 worked after rnd 30. Move

 your stitch marker to the next

stitch, this is your new

beginning!

30 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, *sc5tog* 2x,

 3 sc, dec, 2 sc (21)

→ The last stitch of rnd 31,

the sc5tog, involves the first 4

stitches of rnd 32. After rnd

31 you have to move your

stitch marker to the next

stitch, this is your new

beginning! Don´t worry, this

is the last time we change the

place of our beginning.

31 sc5tog, 15 sc, sc5tog (13)

32 6sc, dec, 5 sc (12)

33-34 (2 rnds) 12 sc (12)

→ Stuff the head and later the

neck section very firmly to

prevent the head from

flopping backward! Please

use a piece of a chopstick,

a dowel or wire to secure the

head. If the holes in the chin

area are disturbing you, take

a piece of yarn and make a

few stitches to cover/hide

them. I don´t care about

them so I left them as they

are.

Rnd 29 before the sc4tog.

The pin marks the 1

st st of

the next rnd.

The red yarn marks the

new beginning of rnd 30.

 1 st st of rnd 30

 ⇓

 ⇐ sc4tog The black yarn marks the

beginning until rnd 28.

Body – yarn A – stuff the body as you go

rnd stitches

35 *1 sc, inc* 6x (18)

36 18 sc (18)

37 *1 sc, inc, 1 sc* 6x (24)

38 24 sc (24)

39 7 sc, ch 4, skip 4 stitches,

8 sc, ch 4, skip 4 stitches,

1 sc (16)

40 7 sc, 4 sc in blo of 4 ch, 8 sc,

4 sc in blo of 4 ch, 1 sc (24)

41 7 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 5 sc (26)

42 26 sc (26)

43 7 sc, inc, 11 sc, inc, 6 sc (28)

44 28 sc (28)

45 7 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 7 sc (30)

46-59 (14 rnds) 30 sc (30)

60 only 14 sc (to reach the side) (30)

→ Ch 1 and close the body

as seen on the pic on right

with single crochet stitches

and fasten off your work.

Arms – 2x – yarn A

rnd stitches

1 See on pic below where to

join the yarn and pay

attention not to skip the

side stitches.

*3 sc, dec* 2x, do not join,

crochet in spiral (8)

2-18 (17 rnds) 8 sc (8)

19 *2 sc, dec* 2x (6)

→ Break yarn and close the

remaining stitches.

Start here with the 1

st

sc.

After rnd 1. Crochet in spiral.

Don´t forget to insert

something to prevent the

head from flopping

backward!

The purple yarn marks the new beginning

of rnd 31.

 ⇑

The black yarn marks the beginning of rnd

32 and all the next rnds.

Legs – 2x – yarn A – stuff the legs as you go

rnd stitches

1 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

2 6 inc (12)

3-38 (36 rnds) 12 sc (12)

→ Ch 1 and close the leg

the same way as the body

with single crochet stitches

and sew it with a whip stitch

to the body.

Antlers – 2x – yarn C – stuff the antlers

lightly as you go

rnd stitches

1 5 sc in magic ring (5)

2-6 (5 rnds) 5 sc (5)

→ Break yarn (don´t need to

fasten off your work).

Crochet two more little

antlers but don´t break

 the yarn on the 3rd antler.

Join the 3rd antler with a sc

to one of the previous

antlers (counts as the first sc

of the following stitches).

7 5 sc on the 2nd antler, 5 sc

on the 3rd antler (10)

8 5 dec (5)

9-12 (4 rnds) 5 sc (5)

13 only 3 sc (to reach the side) (5)

→ Join to the last little antler

with a sc (counts as the first sc

of the following stitches).

14 5 sc on the last antler, 5 sc

 on the main antler (10)

15 5 dec (5)

16-17 (2 rnds) 5 sc (5)

→ Break yarn and leave a

 long tail to sew the antler

 onto the head.

⇓ Back of the leg Front of the doll ⇓

Ears – 2x – yarn A

rnd stitches

1 4 sc in a magic ring (4)

2 *1 sc, inc* 2x (6)

3 *2 sc, inc* 2x (8)

4 *3 sc, inc* 2x (10)

5 *4 sc, inc* 2x (12)

6 *5 sc, inc* 2x (14)

7 *6 sc, inc* 2x (16)

8 16 sc (16)

9 *7 sc, inc* (18)

10 18 (18)

11 *8 sc, inc* (20)

12 20 sc (20)

→ Break yarn and leave a

 long tail to sew the ear in

position. Flatten the ear and

make three stitches through

the layers of the ear as seen

on the pic. Use pins to hold

the ear in position and sew

it onto the head.

Rose A – yarn G

There are two different types and patterns for the

roses on Deedee’s head. I´ve used both of them for

my two girls: 2 of “Rose A” and 5 of “Rose B”.

You need seven roses in total.

Note: It´s easier if you finish off your work and

only leave on one rose a long tail to sew them all

with this one yarn tail in position.

rnd stitches

1 Ch 14, in 3rd ch from hook

{4 hdc}, slst, *{5 hdc},

slst* 5x (36)

→ Break yarn and leave a

 long tail to weave in and out

through the bottom to hold

the rose together after you

curled the piece into a rose

(see pic below) and to sew it

later onto the head.

Rose B – yarn G

rnd stitches

1 Ch 12, in 3nd ch from hook

hdc, *{2 hdc}* 9x (20)

→ Break yarn and leave a

 long tail to weave in and out

through the bottom to hold

the rose together after you

curled the piece into a rose

(see pic below) and to sew it

later onto the head.

 Rose A ⇓

Rose B ⇑

Dress – yarn D

This part sounds a little confusing because of the

yarn changes but it isn´t if you know which colors

you use are yarn B, D and E.

Note: Instead of weaving in ends I prefer to

crochet over the yarn ends and don´t forget to

change your yarn always in the last step of your last

stitch.

rnd stitches

1 Ch 36, join to 1st ch with

a sc to form a ring (in the

back bump behind the chain,

see pic on right), 35 sc (also

in the back bump behind the

chains) (36)

→ Don´t cut the yarn.

Change to yarn E.

2 36 sc (36)

→ Don´t cut the yarn.

Change to yarn B.

3 1 sc, *change to yarn D,

1 sc, change to yarn B, 1 sc*

17x, change to yarn D, 1 sc (36)

→ Cut only yarn B and

change to yarn E.

4 36 sc (36)

→ Break yarn E.

Change to yarn D.

5-13 (9 rnds) 36 sc (36)

14 12 sc, ch 6, skip 6 sc, 12 sc,

ch 6, skip 6 sc (36)

15 12sc, 6 sc in blo of ch 6, 12

sc, 6 sc in blo of ch 6 (36)

→ Change to yarn E.

16 36 sc, join rnd in blo of 1st

stitch with a slst (36)

17 in blo {ch 2, 2 hdc},

*{3 hdc}* 35x (108)

→ Break yarn and fasten off

your work invisible.

→ Attach yarn D with a

standing sc as seen on the

pic below in the 1st stitch of

the 1st round on the back

of your dress.

18 *1 sc, inc* 18x (54)

19-31 (13 rnds) 54 sc (54)

→ Don´t cut the yarn.

Change to yarn E.

32 54 sc (54)

→ Don´t cut the yarn.

Change to yarn B.

33 1 sc, *change to yarn D,

1 sc, change to yarn B, 1 sc*

26x, change to yarn D, 1 sc (54)

→ Break yarn B and D,

change to yarn E.

34 54 sc, slst in 1st st (54)

35 *{ch 2, dc2tog, yarn over and

pull through 3 loops}, skip

two st, slst in next st* 17x,

{ch 3, dc2tog, yarn over and

pull through 3 loops}, skip

two st

→ Break yarn and fasten off

your work invisible with

needle join in 1st st.

Attach yarn for rnd 18

on the back.

Top oft the dress. Now

turn the piece.

1 st sc of rnd 18.

Front of the chains.

Back bump behind the

chain.

Booties – 2x – yarn F

rnd stitches

1 ch 7, insert hook in 2nd ch

from hook: inc, 3 sc, 1 hdc,

{6 hdc}, (don´t turn your

work, crochet on the other

side of the ch) 1 hdc, 3 sc,

inc (18)

2 inc, 6 sc, 4 inc, 6 sc, inc (24)

→ Change to yarn G.

3 in blo 24 sc (24)

4 8 sc, 4 dec, 8 sc (20)

5 8 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc (18)

6 8 sc, dec, 8 sc (17)

7 7 sc, sc3tog, 7 sc (15)

8 6 sc, sc3tog, 6 sc (13)

9-15 (7 rnds) 13 sc (13)

→ Break yarn and leave a

long tail to sew the bootie

later in position.

Stuff only the tip of the

booties and put them on

the legs. See pic below.

Details:

– You can use glue to fix the felt or if you prefer

sew it in place. I just used the eye to hold the felt in

place.

– Use a bit of blush for the cheeks of your doll.

Miku Hatsune (Miku Hatsune)

When using the recommended materials, the pupa will turn out to be 29 cm tall.

Difficulty Level: High

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Materials:

All yarn should be the same thickness. It is best to take yarn from one manufacturer and one

stamps. For example, these materials were used for my Miku:

• flesh-colored YarnArt Jeans yarn (55% cotton / 45% polyacryl, 50g / 160m) flesh-colored (21),

knit in 2 thin strings, fingers knit in 1 thread

• VITA Brilliant yarn (45% wool laster / 55% acrylic, 100g / 380 m) dark gray (4980) and light gray (4963) – disconnect one thread and knit in three thin threads

• turquoise yarn: VITA Crystal (100% acrylic, 50g / 275m) (5665) – for hair and trim

clothes

• white yarn: Color City Amazon (45% bamboo / 55% cotton; 50g / 155m) (101) disconnect

one thread, knit in 5 thin threads – panties

• hook 1.25 (main); 0.75 and 0.6 (for knitting fingers)

• toe knitting needles 1.75 – 5 pcs.

• holofiber

• thick wire d = 2.5 mm (braided) 120 cm – for the frame of the legs and body

• wire d = 1,5 mm 50 cm – for the frame of the hands

• thin wire for beadwork d = 0.4 mm, 80 cm – for the frame of the palms

• 10 cm light pink yarn for embroidery mouth

• a small piece of dense fabric (calico), acrylic paints in white, black, blue, deep blue (or green) colors – for the eyes

• art artificial brushes No. 0 and 0/3 (the thinnest)

• glossy acrylic varnish

• glue Crystal Moment

• thick plastic paper folder – for insoles

• tissue-based adhesive plaster

Legend (hook):

ch – air loop

sl-st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

dec – inconspicuous decrease (grab the two front walls of the base loop at the same time and knit 1sc)

dec * – normal decrease (2sc together)

inc – increase (2 sc from one loop of the base)

hdc – half crochet

inc hdc – increase with half crochets (knit 2 hdc from one loop of the base)

3vm – 3 sc together (knit 3 sc with a common vertex)

İNC – turn the work, thread for knitting

İNC * – turn the work, the thread before knitting

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Legend (knitting needles):

knit – front loop

purl – purl loop

front surface – on the front side knit with facial loops, on the wrong side – purl

2vm – 2 together front for the rear wall. Synonym: 2 loops knit together front with an inclination to the left

2vm * – 2 together front for the front wall. Synonym: 2 stitches knit together front with tilt

right

2vm purl – knit 2 loops together with the wrong loop

+ 1 person – tie an additional facial loop from the loop of the previous row

Adding loops right and left raising – video (I was more comfortable adding loops left

raising)

1 stitch to the right knitting needle without knitting, the working thread behind the removed loop

Knit the edge loops in the front row, and in

wrong side – wrong side.

Head

The head spirals from top to bottom, from the top of the head to the chin. The marker line is centered.

occiput.

1 p: ​​6sc into magic ring = 6

2 p: (inc) × 6 = 12

3 p: (1sc, inc) × 6 = 18

4 p: (1sc, inc, 1sc) × 6 = 24

5 p: (3sc, inc) × 6 = 30

6 p: (1sc, inc, 3sc) × 6 = 36

7 p: (5sc, inc) × 6 = 42

8 p: (2sc, inc, 4sc) × 6 = 48

9 p: 48 sc

10 p: (7sc, inc) × 6 = 54

11-17 p: 54sc (7 rows) +1 n offset

18 p: 12sc, put an additional marker (place

sewing eyelets), 30sc, put a marker (second

eye), 12sc = 54

19 p: (dec, 7sc) × 6 = 48

20 r: 48sc

21 p: 17sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 17sc = 44

22 p: 12sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 14sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 10sc, 2ch = 48 (it turned out that the last 2 were not tied

loops, and above them 2 ch)

23 p: 2ch (total 4ch: 2ch from the 22nd row + 2ch of this row), skip 4 base loops, 10sc,

inc, 3sc, inc, 14sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 12sc = 52

24 p: 52sc – between the 23rd and 24th rows mark the 27th loop – from this mark we will count

eye hook loops +1 n offset

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Sew a thread of contrasting color to outline the hairline: in front – between the 6th and 7th rows, along

on the sides – 1 row above the ears, behind – 1 row above the neck hole.

Make hair.

Cut turquoise strings into strands 60 cm long,

fold them in half and fix along the perimeter of hair growth. To me

it took about 130 threads. Fasten with ordinary knitting

crochet according to the pattern. Attach hair for one first

tail, then for another.

Attach the strings along the parting line to the same holes as

the first row, then when dividing the lock into two tails on

there will be no bald spot in the middle of the parting.

If you divide the hair along the center line to the left and to the right, you get an even parting, and if

distribute the row to the left, the row to the right, you get a zigzag parting.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Tie ponytails with small rubber bands for hair. This is a temporary option, we will finally

to fix when the head is completely ready.

Continue to knit your head.

25 p: 12sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 6sc, inc (nose formation), 6sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 13sc = 49

26 p: 1sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 5sc, (inc) × 2 (nose), 5sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 2sc = 45

27 p: 1sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 1sc = 39

28 p: 1sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 4sc, 3vm (nose tip), 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 1sc = 31

29 p: 1sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec = 24

30 r: 24sc

31 p: (1sc, dec) × 3, 2sc, (inc) × 2 (chin formation), 2sc, (dec, 1sc) × 3 = 20

32 p: 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 1sc, (inc) × 2 (chin), 1sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc = 18

Fill your head with filler. Filling is not too tight. Form from filler

a small ball and place it in the area of ​​the nose so that it stands out better on the face.

33 p: (dec) × 3, 6sc, (dec) × 3 = 12p

With the help of three hooks, tighten all these 12 loops in one step. Fasten and hide the thread inside out.

Ears

Knit in rows.

Left ear

1 row: 7 loops in an amigurumi ring, 3ch (for lifting), İNC

2 row: starting from the 1st loop: 1dc, 2hdc, 3sc, inc, 1ch, ss into magic ring

Leave the thread for sewing.

Right ear

1 row: 7 loops in an amigurumi ring, İNC

2 row: from the 1st loop knit: inc, 3sc, 2hdc, 1dc, 1ch

Next, knit a ss in a broach of a crochet column and fasten the thread. Leave the thread for sewing.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Embroider bangs

In a knit needle with a blunt tip

insert a long thread of turquoise color and

start embroidering bangs, stitching stitches

tight to each other. At the same time, we try to

the strings did not twist during operation,

and lay parallel to each other.

We make the lower border uneven. Bang part

we put on already completed stitches.

Sew ears on the markers.

Determine the exact location for each ponytail

and fasten them with small silicone

rubber bands.

Hands

Paired details are best knitted in parallel (from two balls), so that they turn out the same

size. We begin to knit hands with fingers, the direction of knitting from the bottom up to the shoulder.

We knit with a disconnected thread (two times thinner than the main fabric), hook 0.6. Starting from the 3rd row

You can insert a sewing needle into your finger and then knit as around the frame (method from Elena_rak).

Index finger (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-8 p: 5sc (7 rows)

9 p: 2sc (partial row)

Middle finger (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-9 p: 5sc (8 rows)

Ring finger (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-8 p: 5sc (7 rows)

9 p: 3sc (partial row)

Little finger (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-7 p: 5sc (6 rows)

Thumb (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-8 p: 5sc (7 rows)

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Finger assembly

On the left hand, the marker goes from the index finger up the edge of the palm (in front), on the right hand – from

little finger up the back of the hand. Monitor marker position on these lines.

Left hand

We begin to collect with the index finger.

Change the hook to 0.75, attach another

a thread to the worker (we knit the main worker

thick yarn).

Right hand

We begin to collect with the little finger. Change hook

at 0.75, attach another thread to

working (we knit the main working thickness

yarn).

1 p: ​​1sc, dec * (one loop from the index finger,

second – average), 1sc average

finger, 1sc over the ring, dec * (one

loop with ring finger, second – with

little finger), dec (“invisible”), 1sc on the little finger,

dec * (one loop with the little finger, the second with

ring finger), 1sc over the ring finger

finger, dec * (one loop with the nameless

finger, the second – from the middle), 1sc by

middle finger, dec * (one loop with

middle finger, the second with the index finger), dec

(“invisible”) = 13

1 p: ​​1sc, dec * (one loop with the little finger, the second with

ring finger), 1sc over the ring finger

finger, 1sc on the middle finger, dec * (one

loop from the middle finger, the second with

index), dec (“invisible”), 1sc by

index finger, dec * (one loop with

index finger, the second – from the middle),

1sc on the middle finger, dec * (one loop with

middle finger, the second – with the ring finger),

1sc on the ring finger, dec * (one loop

from the nameless, the second – from the little finger), dec

(“invisible”) = 13

2-4 p: (change the hook by 1.25) 13 sc (3 rows) 2-4 p: (change the hook by 1.25) 13 sc (3 rows)

5 p: 2sc knit together with eyelets

thumb1

, 11sc = 13

5 p: 5sc, next 2sc knit with

thumb loops1

, 6sc = 13

6 p: 2sc over thumb loops, dec * (one

loop from the thumb, the second with

hands) 1

, 10sc = 13

6 p: 4sc, dec * (one loop from the palm, the second with

thumb), 2sc over the loops of the thumb

finger1

, 6sc = 13

1 To hook the loops on the thumb, grab the 0.75 hook again.

We knit them the first two loops of the 5th row and the first three loops of the 6th row.

We make the frame. Take two pieces of wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm2 by 25 cm, and two pieces of thin bead

wire d = 0.4 mm by 40 cm. Make a frame of the hands and insert it into the palms. Further knit around

wire.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

7 p: (dec, 1sc) × 4, 1sc = 9

8-10 r: 9sc (3 rows)

11 p: inc, 3sc, inc, 4sc = 11

12-13 p: 11sc (2 rows)

14 p: inc, 4sc, inc, 5sc = 13

15-17 p: 13 sc (3 rows)

We stuff in the process of knitting: we do not stuff the wrist; add a little filler in the forearm,

distributing it around the wire; we’re not stuffing the elbow so as not to disturb the shape of the hand; humeral

part is stuffed a little denser so that the hand holds its shape.

Left hand right hand

18 p: 6sc, inc, 6sc = 14

19-23 r: 14sc (5 rows)

24 p: 6sc, (inc) × 2 (elbow – located on the back, on

one line with the little finger), 4sc, dec (ulnar

fold) = 15

25 p: dec, 12sc, inc = 15

26 p: inc, 4sc, (dec) × 2, 6sc = 14

27-28 r: 14sc (2 rows)

29 p: inc, 13sc = 15

30-31 p: 15sc (2 rows)

32 p: inc, 14sc = 16

33-44 r: 16sc (12 rows)

45 p: 2sc, ss (incomplete row) – the thread is located with

the inner side of the arm (from the side of the body).

Cut the thread and secure it on the wrong side.

18 p: inc, 12sc = 14

19-23 r: 14sc (5 rows)

24 p: 13sc, inc (elbow – located on the back, on

one line with the little finger) = 15

25 p: inc, 4sc, (dec) × 2 (ulnar fold), 6sc = 14

26 p: 6sc, (inc) × 2, 4sc, dec = 15

27 p: dec, 13sc = 14

28 p: 14sc

29 p: 6sc, inc, 7sc = 15

30-31 p: 15sc (2 rows)

32 p: 7sc, inc, 7sc = 16

33-44 r: 16sc (12 rows)

45 p: 2sc, ss (incomplete row) – the thread is located with

the inner side of the arm (from the side of the body).

Cut the thread and secure it on the wrong side.

Sleeves

Knit from the bottom up. Dial 24 stitches (6 cm), close in a ring, and knit, evenly reducing the stitches.

1-5 p: 24 faces (5 rows)

6 p: (dec, 10 persons) × 2 = 22

7-11 r: 22 faces (5 rows)

12 p: (5 knit, dec, 4 persons) × 2 = 20

13-17 r: 20 faces (5 rows)

18 p: (dec, 8 persons) × 2 = 18

19-23 r: 18 faces (5 rows)

24 p: (4 knit, dec, 3 persons) × 2 = 16

25-29 p: 16 faces (5 rows)

30 p: (dec, 6 persons) × 2 = 14

31-39 p: 14 persons (9 rows)

40 p: knit a row while closing all the loops

Tie the top and bottom of the sleeve with one row sc of turquoise yarn. Complete it with a secret connector

column. Steam the finished sleeves with a steam jet (without touching the knitted fabric).

Put the gloves on Miku’s hands (put on top). Mittens can not be sewn to the hands, they are already

hold well.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Legs

The marker line runs behind the leg (“seam on the stocking”). Watch the marker if it starts to go away

right, knit an extra column at the end of the row and move the marker one loop. The legs are the same as

hands, it is better to knit both at once.

Sole (2 children)

Knit in circular rows with a lifting loop and a closing connecting column. This ss can

knit either in the first column of this row (green arrow), or in the lifting loop (yellow arrow). we

we will close the row in the first column of the row.

Turquoise yarn knit a chain of 10 ch.

1 p: ​​starting from the second from the hook loop: 8sc, 4sc to the last

loop of the chain, 7sc, inc, ss in the first sc of this row (by

green arrow) = 21

2 p: 1ch for lifting; starting from the same loop on which it is connected

lift loop: 6sc, 2hdc, (inc hdc) × 4, 2hdc, 6sc, (inc) × 2,

ss in the first column of this row (in the green arrow) = 28

3 p: 1ch for lifting; starting from the same loop on which it is connected

lifting loop: 10sc, (inc, 1sc) × 3, 9sc, (inc, 1sc) × 2, ss in

the first sc of this row (in the green arrow) = 34

4 p: 1ch for lifting; starting from the same loop on which it is connected

lifting loop: 8sc, (1sc, inc, 1sc) × 4, 11sc, inc, 2sc = 39

Cut the working thread, leaving a thread about 1.5 m long (its length should be sufficient for tying

soles with one row of connecting posts). Insert this ponytail into a knitted needle and

execute a countersunk column in the first loop of the row (order of execution is here). It turns out 40

loops.

Heel (2 children)

We knit in rotary rows. Knit a chain of 4ch with turquoise yarn.

1 p: ​​starting from the second loop from the hook: 2sc, 4sc into the last loop of the chain, on the back

chains 2sc, 1ch, İNC = 8

2 p: 3sc, (inc) × 2, 3sc, 1ch, İNC = 10

3 p: 4sc, (inc) × 2, 4sc = 12

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Boot (2 pcs.)

Knit with dark gray yarn in 3 thin threads. Link the chain from 40ch, lock it in the ss ring.

1-2 p: 40sc (2 rows)

3 p: 13sc, (dec) × 7, 1sc, İNC *

4 p: (knit with purl sc) (dec *) × 4, 1sc, İNC

5 p: dec *, 2sc, dec * (pull the first loop from the center of the last column, the second from the next

hinges of the 2nd row), 1sc İNC *

6 p: (knit with purl sc) dec *, 2sc, dec * (similar to the previous row), 1sc, İNC

7 p: dec *, 2sc, dec *, 9sc

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Attach the heel to the sole and place the upper part of the boot on top, precisely align all the details

relative to each other. Turquoise yarn to connect all these three parts in one row

connecting columns (in the photographs for clarity, the connection of parts is shown in white

yarn). Secure the thread with a secret connecting column and hide on the inside.

From the plastic paper folder, cut out the insoles slightly smaller than the soles.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

If the doll will be interior and I want her to stand in any position, then in the heel area on

insoles need to make holes. Then they can insert the frame from the stand.

Cut two pieces of wire of 60 cm d = 2.5, bend the frame in half. One end should be long

slightly larger than the length of the leg, approximately 22-25 cm, the second – slightly larger than the length of the body. Bend

fasten the resulting loop perpendicular to the frame and in the ankle region fasten with 1.5-2 turns

adhesive tape.

Attach a plastic insole to the wire with 1 turn of adhesive tape (a lot is not needed, only to

the insole was locked in the correct position). Insert this frame in the leg and continue to knit around

wire. Stuff in the process of knitting, evenly distributing the filler around the wire

frame.

Then again we knit in circular rows.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

8 p: 8sc, dec * (pull the first loop from the 9th column, the second from the first loop of the rotary row),

2sc, dec, 8sc = 20

9 p: 7sc, (dec *) × 3, 7sc = 17

10 p: dec, 5sc, (dec) × 2, 5sc, dec = 13 (the last decrease captures the last loop of the 10th row and the first

loop of the 11th row; as a result, the marker has shifted left by 1 loop)

11-16 p: 13sc (6 rows)

Left foot right foot

17 p: 1sc, inc, 11sc = 14

18-19 p: 14sc (2 rows)

20 p: 2sc, inc, 11sc = 15

21-22 p: 15sc (2 rows)

23 p: 3sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 2sc = 17

24-25 p: 17sc (2 rows)

26 p: 3sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 1sc = 19

27 p: 19sc

28 p: 1sc, inc, 17sc = 20

29 p: 20sc

30 p: 4sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 3sc = 22

31-32 r: 22sc (2 rows)

33 p: 3sc, inc, 15sc, inc, 2sc = 24

34-38 p: 24sc (5 rows)

39 p: 3sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 1sc = 22

40-41 p: 22sc (2 rows)

42 p: 3sc, dec, 15sc, dec = 20

43 p: 3sc, dec, 4sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 8sc = 21

44 p: 2sc, dec, 17sc = 20

45 r: 20sc

46 p: 3sc, inc, 4sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 3sc, inc,

3sc = 20

47-48 p: 20sc (2 rows)

49 p: 4sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 4sc = 22

50-53 r: 22sc (4 rows)

54 p: 4sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 4sc = 24

55-58 r: 24sc (4 rows)

59 p: 21sc (partial row)

17 p: 11sc, inc, 1sc = 14

18-19 p: 14sc (2 rows)

20 p: 11sc, inc, 2sc = 15

21-22 p: 15sc (2 rows)

23 p: 2sc, inc, 9sc, inc, 2sc = 17

24-25 p: 17sc (2 rows)

26 p: 1sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 3sc = 19

27 p: 19sc

28 p: 1sc, inc, 17sc = 20

29 p: 20sc

30 p: 3sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 3sc = 22

31-32 r: 22sc (2 rows)

33 p: 2sc, inc, 15sc, inc, 3sc = 24

34-38 p: 24sc (5 rows)

39 p: 1sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 3sc = 22

40-41 p: 22sc (2 rows)

42 p: dec, 15sc, dec, 3sc = 20

43 p: 8sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 4sc, dec, 3sc = 21

44 p: 17sc, dec, 2sc = 20

45 r: 20sc

46 p: 3sc, inc, 4sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 4sc, inc,

2sc = 20

47-48 p: 20sc (2 rows)

49 p: 4sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 4sc = 22

50-53 r: 22sc (4 rows)

54 p: 4sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 4sc = 24

55-59 p: 24sc (5 rows) +6 loops

displacements (the beginning of the row is shifted inward)

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Then both legs are knitted the same way. Change the thread to turquoise.

60 r: 24sc

Change thread to skin color.

61 p: (behind the back wall of the loop) 24sc

62-71 p: (for both walls) 24sc (10 rows)

Body

On the right leg, knit 2sc with flesh-colored thread, then switch to white yarn and knit 1sc –

the working thread is exactly between the legs. Tie 1ch (so that there is a small distance between the legs).

1 p: ​​24sc (on the left foot), 1sc on ch, 24sc (on the right foot), 1sc on ch = 50

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Now you need to transfer the marker to the stomach so that the halves of the priests are not one above the other, so that

increases / decreases were located strictly in one row and were at the same height. Knit 24 p offsets and

place the marker exactly in the center of the abdomen.

2 p: 15sc, (inc, 3sc) × 2, 1sc, dec, (3sc, inc) × 2, 16sc = 53

3 p: 16sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 3sc, dec, 3sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 17sc = 56

4 p: 27sc, dec, 27sc = 55

Bend the frame coming from the legs to each other, cut off the excess wire with wire cutters, and connect it

together with a band-aid.

5-10 p: 55sc (6 rows)

11 p: 16sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 16sc = 51

12 p: 12sc, change the thread to a flesh color, (continue to knit behind the back wall of the loop) 39sc = 51

13 p: (for the back wall of the loop) 12sc, (for both walls) 2sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 14sc = 47

14 p: 14sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 14sc = 43

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

15 p: 43sc

16 p: 8sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 8sc = 38

17 p: 13 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 13 sc = 36

18 p: 5 sc, dec, 22 sc, dec, 5 sc = 34

19-24 p: 34 sc (6 rows)

25 p: 6sc, inc, 20sc, inc, 6sc = 36

26-27 p: 36sc

28 p: 12sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 12sc = 38

29 p (incomplete row): 19sc

Put the marker exactly in the middle of the back. This is necessary so that the chest does not work out on different

height.

When you fill the body, try not to put a lot of filler in the abdomen, so as not to

the bulging tummy turned out.

30 p: 8sc, inc, 4sc, (inc) × 3, 5sc, (inc) × 3, 4sc, inc, 9sc = 46

31 p: 14sc, (1hdc, inc hdc) × 3, 6sc, (inc hdc, 1hdc) × 3, 14sc = 52

32-34 p: 52sc (3 rows)

In the 33rd row, note the center of the chest with contrasting thread, in this

we’ll do a little tightening later.

35 p: 15sc, (dec, 1sc) × 3, 4sc, (1sc, dec) × 3, 15sc = 46

36 p: 16sc, (dec, 1sc) × 2, 4sc, (1sc, dec) × 2, 14sc = 42

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Attach the frame of the hands to the “spine”.

When you get to the site where you need to knit at the same time the body and arm loops together, get a working thread

under the wire frame, knit these three loops. Then pull the hook out of the loop and slip it

under the frame to the other side (turn). Next, knit according to the scheme to the next section of the arm connection

and body. Perform it similarly to the first.

Now you can knit the body further.

37 p: 8sc, 3sc (capturing simultaneously the loops of the body and left hand), 5sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 5sc, 3sc

(capturing simultaneously the loops of the body and the right hand), 7sc = 40

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Slightly pull the center of the chest to the “spine” with two stitches. Strongly do not zealous so as not to

it turned out a hole instead of a beautiful hollow.

38 p: 8sc (back), 13sc (left hand), 19sc (front), 13sc (right hand), 7sc (back) = 60

39 p: 8sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 19sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 7sc = 54

40 p: 7sc, dec, (3sc, dec) × 3, 7sc, dec, (3sc, dec) × 3, 6sc = 46

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Once again, slightly pull the center of the chest to the “spine”. The tie point is 2 rows higher than the previous one. This

fasten the weight, as well as the first one, under the arm frame.

Shoulders

The shoulders fit, as well as the feet, in swivel rows. It is necessary to ensure that the wrong bars

were pretty tight. Otherwise, you will get holes on the shoulders, and through them will shine through

filler.

41 p: 8sc, (dec) × 4, 1sc, İNC *

42 p: (purl) dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC

43 p: dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC *

44 p: (purl) dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC

45 p: dec *, 1sc, dec *, 12sc, (dec) × 4, 1sc, İNC *

46 p: (purl) dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC

47 p: dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC *

48 p: (purl) dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC

49 p: dec *, 1sc, dec *, 2sc +1 n offset

50 r: (continue to knit in a spiral) 3sc, 1sc to the center of the column knitted in the next loop of the row,

11sc, 1sc to the center of the column knitted in the next loop of the row, 6sc = 22

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Shoulder knitting pattern:

Fulfillment of the 50th row: the arrows show on which stitches the 3rd and 4th sc should be knitted; 16th and 17th

sc knit similarly

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

51 p: 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc = 18

52 p: 18sc

53 p: 2sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc = 14

54-61 p: 14sc (8 rows)

Knit another 3 sc so that the working thread is on the left side of the neck (here when sewing the head does not

the “step” will be so noticeable), ss. Cut the thread, leaving a tail sufficient for sewing

heads.

Take your time sewing on your head. When trying on clothes, hair will interfere, so first we

we will dress Miku, and then we will fix the head.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Clothing (knitting needles)

Pleated skirt

We will need:

• yarn is dark gray

• turquoise yarn for decoration

• toe knitting needles 1.75 (5 pcs.)

Type 48 stitches on the knitting needles. Distribute them to 4

knitting needles 12 loops. Close the loop in the ring and then

knit in a circle.

1 p: ​​48 persons = 48

2 p: (4 faces, + 1 life) × 12 = 60

3 p: (2 faces, 1 faces to retake without knitting (thread for

loop), 1 face, 1 life) × 12 = 60

4 p: (4 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 60

5 p: (1 person, + 1 person, 1 knit, 1 person to retake without tying

(thread behind the loop), 1 person, 1 life) × 12 = 72

6 p: (5 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 72

7 p: (3 faces, 1 faces reshoot (thread behind the loop), 1 faces, + 1 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 84

8 p: (6 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 84

9 p: (1 person, + 1 person, 2 knit, 1 person reshoot (thread behind the loop), 2 person, 1 life) × 12 = 96

10 p: (7 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 96

11 p: (4 faces, 1 faces reshoot (thread behind the loop), 2 faces, + 1 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 108

12 p: (8 people, 1 life) × 12 = 108

13 p: (1 person, + 1 person, 3 person, 1 person retake (thread behind the loop), 3 person, 1 person) × 12 = 120

14 p: (9 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 120

15 p: (5 faces, 1 faces retake (thread behind the loop), 3 faces, + 1 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 132

16 p: (10 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 132

Knit the first loop on the knitting needle, and then re-knit it on the right knitting needle. The beginning of the row has shifted to 1

loop to the left. In the next row we knit loops and close. Close the loops one at a time, and upon reaching

wrong side, grab the wrong side and the next one behind the front wall and close both of them

at once.

17 p: 9 faces, 2vm * (the wrong side and the following one are knitted together) = 120

Cut the thread and hide the tail on the inside. Attach a turquoise thread and tie the bottom of the skirt

one side sc.

Very carefully, through wet gauze, steam all the folds (with one touch, do not press strongly).

Put the skirt on the body and sew with a thin sewing thread (or thin fishing line) along the hips, just above

the top edge of the shorts.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Belt strap

Link a chain of 56 ch. Starting from the second loop, knit 55 sc along this chain. Steaming the strap

a stream of steam (do not touch the iron) and sew on the skirt on the left to the belt.

Jacket

Light gray yarn, knitting needles 1.75, knit tightly.

Tie a chain of 54 ch with a contrasting thread (tied more than necessary, because it is difficult to make from extreme loops

dial loops). Take the main yarn in light gray, leave a loose tip about 70-

80 cm (then we will close the open hinges of the bottom with this thread) and use a hook to pull out light gray

yarn on the back of a chain 52 loop.

1 p: ​​52 purl = 52

2 p: 52 knit = 52

3 p: 15 life, (2vm purl, 5 life) × 3, 2vm purl, 14 life = 48

4-5 r: facial smoothness (2 rows)

6 p: 2vm *, 12persons, (2vm *, 4persons) × 3, 2vm *, 12persons, 2vm = 42

7-8 r: facial smoothness (2 rows)

9 r: 2vm wrong side, 5niz, İNC

10 r: double crochet, 6 knits, İNC

11 p: 3life, İNC

12 r: double crochet, 3 knits, İNC

13 p: 3 life, yarn and the next loop to knit together

wrong side of the back wall, 2 wear, yarn and

knit the next loop together

back wall, 4lv, (2vm purl, 3lv) × 3, 2vm purl, 13lv = 37

14 p: 2vm *, 5 persons, İNC

15 p: yarn, 6niz, İNC

16 r: 3 persons, İNC

17 p: yarn, 3niz, İNC

18 p: 3 knit, double crochet and the next loop together with the front for the front wall, 2 knit, double crochet and

knit the next loop together over the front wall, 29 faces = 36

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

19-21 r: facial smoothness (3 rows)

22 p: 9 persons, + 1p, 18 persons, + 1p, 9 persons = 38

23-25 ​​r: facial smoothness (3 rows)

26 p: 10 persons, + 1p, 18 persons, + 1p, 10 persons = 40

27-29 r: facial smoothness (3 rows)

30 p: 10 persons, + 1p, 20 persons, + 1p, 10 persons = 42

31 p: 42 life

Next, we form the armhole. Knit each part separately.

Right shelf:

1 p: ​​12 persons, İNC = 12

2 p: (and all even rows are purl loops) 12 purl

3 p: 10 persons, 2 VM = 11

5 p: 9 persons, 2 vm = 10

7 p: 8 persons, 2 vm = 9

9 p: 6 faces, 3 vm = 7

11 p: 5 persons, 2 vm = 6

13 p: 4 persons, 2 vm = 5

14 p: close all the loops.

Back:

1 p: ​​18 persons = 18

3 p: 2vm *, 14 persons, 2 vm = 16

5 p: 2vm *, 12 persons, 2 vm = 14

7 p: 2vm *, 10 persons, 2 vm = 12

9 p: 2vm *, 8 persons, 2 vm = 10

11 p: 2vm *, 6 persons, 2 vm = 8

13 p: knit this row, closing the loop

Left shelf:

1 p: ​​12persons = 12

3 p: 2 vm *, 10 persons = 11

5 p: 2 vm *, 9 persons = 10

7 p: 2 vm *, 8 persons = 9

9 p: 3 vm *, 6 persons = 7

11 p: 2 vm *, 5 persons = 6

13 p: 2 vm *, 4 persons = 5

14 p: close all loops

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Collar

Turn the jacket back to you and dial 22 loops on the closed loops of the neck,

picking up the front wall of the loop (the one closest to you):

6 loops on the left shelf, 10 loops on the back, 6 loops on the right shelf.

It turns out that on the shelves you need to add one additional loop, and on the back add 2

loops.

1 p: ​​22 life = 22

2 p: 22 persons = 22

3 p: 22 life = 22

4 p: knit this row at the same time closing all the loops.

Try not to tighten the edge, knit looser so that the collar edge is not pulled, it should

to lie freely on the shoulders.

Tie the collar with one next to sc turquoise yarn. At the corners to rotate, knit in one loop:

1sc, 1ch, 1sc.

Remove the thread of contrasting color along the bottom of the jacket, put open loops on the knitting needle, and knit one row

closing all loops at the same time. To tie the bottom and armholes of the jacket with one next sc turquoise yarn.

At the corners, also knit in one loop: 1sc, 1ch, 1sc. Fasten and hide all tails on the wrong side

strings.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Put the finished jacket on Mika, sew the shelves with each other. You can make a fastener, then a jacket

will be removable.

On the left shelf, yellow yarn to embroider two

badge stitches.

Tie

Link a chain of 29ch.

Starting from the 2nd loop from the hook: 9sc, 9hdc, 8dc, 1ch, 1hdc; in

last loop of the chain: 2sc, 1ch, 2sc; starting from

the next loop on the back of the chain: 1hdc, 1ch,

8dc, 9hdc, 9sc.

Steam the tie with a stream of steam (without touching the knitted

cloth) and sew under the collar.

On the side of the tie, embroider two stitches with dark gray yarn.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Bend your neck a little back. Measure about 3-4 cm

wire coming out of the neck, cut off the excess. Put on

head to this frame, find the correct head position and

sew it to your neck.

Eye sockets

Between the 23rd and 24th rows, place a marker exactly in the center of the face (exactly above the nose). Now left and

To the right of this central loop, count 2 loops, and retreat another two loops to the temples – this

marks for eye tightening.

Bring down ordinary sewing with a solid thread of flesh

colors in 2 additions. We form each eye separately.

Tie up the tie in the most inconspicuous place –

either at the base of the neck or under the hair (I hid

hair nodules). Never pull hard.

you need a little bit to get tiny

neat pits. If you look in profile, then

The nose should be slightly submerged.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Eyes

This is the most creative moment in creating your baby doll. The perception of the whole image in

whole.

Materials:

• acrylic paints in white, black and blue (green) colors

• tassels No. 0 and No. 0/3 (the thinnest)

• a piece of dense cotton fabric (I took calico)

• glossy acrylic varnish

• toothpicks – they will take a small amount of paint for mixing on the palette and for

applying varnish

For dolls in the style of anime, you do not need to make realistic eyes, they look on such faces a little

unnaturally, more sketchy eyes are needed. It is no coincidence that there is such a thing as anime eyes.

To measure the height of 4 rows of knitting is the size of the eye vertically. I got 9.5-10 mm. Width

eyes are calculated by multiplying the height by 0.8, it turns out 8 mm. Now on a piece of paper you need to note this

distance and draw two ovals. It’s better to take dark paper so that it’s easier to understand how it will look

eyes on the face.

Cut out these ovals with nail scissors, attach to your face and see if the eyes of such

size or not, if you want more or enough.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Now you can start drawing on the fabric. We draw in the same way as we painted on paper.

I drew two sizes at once, because I don’t know which ones will look better in the end.

Now we take acrylic paints and color these blanks. First, draw the squirrels with white paint,

then a blue (green) narrow strip of iris.

Now from below on the iris you need to make a lighter blue (green) highlight. For this on plastic

in the palette (or on the lid of mayonnaise) mix a little bit of blue (green) paint and a little white

mix with a toothpick and a thin brush apply glare.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Now paint over the pupil and eyelashes. Let it dry.

Under the eyelashes, the anime always has a shadow, this gives the eyes depth and volume, so now you need

apply these shadows. Mix a little white paint with a black droplet on the palette (literally on

the tip of a toothpick) and do exactly the same with blue (green) paint. Very thin brush

gently apply these paints under the eyelashes to the appropriate areas. And again let it dry.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

It remains only to apply glare with white paint.

Allow eyes to dry well.

Now, with sharp nail scissors, cut out the finished eyes and try on the dolls to the face,

move them, see how it will be better, you can even twist your eyes slightly, while

completely different facial expressions.

This is an individual process, see for yourself how it will look better. As soon as you like it

look of your beauty, mark with a thin sewing needle the control point on which you will

to navigate (for example, the inner corner of the eye), only then glue the eyes into place. Need to glue

one by one. When gluing the first eye, the second remains on the face, do not change its position,

control the position of the glued eye on it.

Let the glue dry and apply acrylic glossy varnish on the eyes. I applied it back (flat)

toothpick side. You do not need to take a lot of varnish, gently touch the surface of the varnish with a toothpick and

then apply it to the eyes and distribute it in a circular motion over the entire surface of the eyes.

The mouth can be embroidered with two stitches of light pink yarn, or you can also draw on fabric and glue

in place.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Tail jewelry

Cut two pieces of thin bead wire d = 0.4 mm 24-26 cm. Yarn dark gray knit

a chain of 24ch.

Note: the length of the chain depends on the thickness of the yarn that you took for the hair.

If the yarn is quite voluminous and the ponytails are magnificent, then ch

should be linked more – 28-30.

Take one piece of wire and tie it under 23sc, on one side of this chain.

Then in the last loop knit 1ch, 1sc, 1ch. Bend the wire in half, attach it to the back

side of this chain and tie another 23sc also by tying the wire.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Now with pink yarn, knit 23cc in the center of the finished strip, as if “flashing” it through.

Bend this knitted strip in the form of a square, bend the ends of the wire perpendicular up.

Pass the tails through these adornments, insert the wire ends in the head directly under the tails and

Sew the threads with the left ends.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Headphones

Take a piece of wire with a cross-section of 2.5 about 16-18 cm long (do not remove insulation) and bend it into

in the form of headphones. Try this blank on Miku’s head, the loops on the ends of the wire should

located just below the ears.

On one loop of this billet, fix the tip of the black yarn with adhesive tape. Wrap this

thread the central part of the headphones tightly to the coil. Fasten the end of the thread to the second loop

headphones with a small piece of adhesive tape.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

For the ears, take yarn in dark gray.

Inner part (2 children)

1 p: ​​6sc into magic ring

2 p: (inc) × 6 = 12

3 p: (1sc, inc) × 6 = 18

4 p: (2sc, inc) × 6 = 24

Outside (2 children)

1 p: ​​6sc into magic ring

2 p: (inc) × 6 = 12

3 p: (1sc, inc) × 6 = 18

4 p: (2sc, inc) × 6 = 24

5 p: (behind the back wall of the loop) 24sc = 24

Fold the outer and inner parts in pairs and knit 18 cc, fastening both of these parts together

(row is not completed). Insert the wire loops of the headphones into these “pockets”, add a little bit (!)

filler and tie the connecting row to the end. No need to fill up much; headphones should be

pretty flat and not look like balls. Cut and fasten the thread, hide the tail on the inside.

Embroider pink yarn on the outside of the headphone “light bulb” and yellow to execute small dots.

You can slightly toned the area around the eyes. Just do not overdo it with a shade, the color of the tint

should be slightly darker than the main tone of the face. And you can leave it as it is.

Gently comb the ponytails of the comb with very rare cloves, align the strings and cut

the ends of the ponytail corners.

Miku is ready!

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

I express my heartfelt thanks to Elena (Elena_rak), Eugenia (nipl) and Nelly

(Nelly) for helping me test Miku. Thanks for the beautiful images created.

you!

This MK is an authoring and is intended for personal use only.

use. Copying, publishing on their pages on social networks and blogs,

as well as the sale of this master class is prohibited.

You can sell toys related to this MK subject to instructions

the author of the description.

Thank you for understanding!